ECMlink Is this a bad tune?

[DeadlyScone]

i got the car a while back and really have only messed with the MAF comp. My car doesn't seem to have the power that it should and i am completely new to all of this .
I guess my main question is that is the AFR correct(too lean/rich) is timing right and i don't think my airflow is correct either.

If someone wants to be nice enough to look over it and let me know what you think

MODS: Engine & Engine Managment

Large FMIC
FP Green Spec Turbo @ 14.6psi
3" IC piping
3" exhaust
3" GM MAF(No MAP or IAT)
ECMlink V3

Here is the log.

 

[Calan]

I don't see a WB or MAP sensor connected or logged, so it's really hard to tell much. I notice that your timing advance is too high for pump gas, your target AFR is a bit rich (but doesn't mean much since I have no idea what AFR you are actually hitting), and your battery voltage is dropping more than it should at WOT.

 

[DeadlyScone]

I don't see a WB or MAP sensor connected or logged, so it's really hard to tell much. I notice that your timing advance is too high for pump gas, your target AFR is a bit rich (but doesn't mean much since I have no idea what AFR you are actually hitting), and your battery voltage is dropping more than it should at WOT.

brand new alternator, i installed it like 2 months ago.
so..
1. need to decrease the timing values on the timing adjustment table in ECU config until knock is non existent or till they come down to 18*?
2. How do i set my target AFR?


sorry i know i don't have a wideband I will probably get one as soon as i get my job situation worked out .


EDIT: i wish someone would post a excellent article about how to do everything and what certain values should be for new tuners(such as me)

 

[Calan]

How much boost are you running?

Without a wideband (or even a MAP sensor), there is no telling what AFR you are actually hitting. With that much timing and knock, you could be leaner than you think and close to having a not-so-good day if you don't back the timing down.

Drop the timing in the DA table cells where the knock is happening (and a little on each side of it), or use the timing sliders for a quick fix.

Get a wideband ASAP and don't hotrod the car all over the place, at least until you have a better idea of what's going on with your motor.

 

[DeadlyScone]

How much boost are you running?

Without a wideband (or even a MAP sensor), there is no telling what AFR you are actually hitting. With that much timing and knock, you could be leaner than you think and close to having a not-so-good day if you don't back the timing down.

Drop the timing in the DA table cells where the knock is happening (and a little on each side of it), or use the timing sliders for a quick fix.

Get a wideband ASAP and don't hotrod the car all over the place, at least until you have a better idea of what's going on with your motor.

will do. i heard the LC-1 is good. any other choices you would recommend(maybe even links to their website)

FP Green Spec Turbo @ 14.6psi

this Table correct?

 

[Calan]

I use a Zietronix ZT myself, but there are many to choose from. Search this site's topic titles for "which wideband" (with the quotes) and you should get plenty of reading material.

(I was going to give you a "Let me google that for you" link, but that seemed a bit obvious. )

 

[DeadlyScone]

I use a Zietronix ZT myself, but there are many to choose from. Search this site's topic titles for "which wideband" (with the quotes) and you should get plenty of reading material.

(I was going to give you a "Let me google that for you" link, but that seemed a bit obvious. )

ya, i saw a recent post about widebands i think you posted in there somewhere. So should i also get an IAT and a MAP sensor even if i have a wideband? i guess i would need a MAP if i wanted to do a SD setup.

but is that the table you were talking about in the DA tables?

 

[Calan]

If you plan on switching to SD, then yes... you will need a MAP and IAT sensor (and it's not a bad idea to be logging them anyway). But IMO, you should get comfortable with the MAF first. SD isn't all that different other than how you calibrate airflow, but it's a little less forgiving. And once you get the MAF dialed in properly, you can use that to help with the initial setup of the SD table.

Timing and AFR DA tables work the same whether you run SD or a MAF.

EDIT:

Yep. That ^^^ is the stock 1G DA timing map, which is WAY too aggressive BTW. Download these Evo 8 AFR and timing tables from ECMTuning; they are much better to start with.

Here is the page URL for reference: http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/v3configs?s=evo8

 

[DeadlyScone]

If you plan on switching to SD, then yes... you will need a MAP and IAT sensor (and it's not a bad idea to be logging them anyway). But IMO, you should get comfortable with the MAF first. SD isn't all that different other than how you calibrate airflow, but it's a little less forgiving. And once you get the MAF dialed in properly, you can use that to help with the initial setup of the SD table.

Timing and AFR DA tables work the same whether you run SD or a MAF.

but that's the correct table i need to be in to adjust the timing like you mentioned though right?

OR

can i just use the sliders in the ECU config or will that not work?

 

[Calan]

See my edit in response to your edit.

BTW - Check out this running thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/425383-widebands.html#post152857506

 

[DeadlyScone]

See my edit in response to your edit.

BTW - Check out this running thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/425383-widebands.html#post152857506

so this in "theory" should tone down my timing and AFR's? then ill just have to see what my car does from there eh?

 

[Calan]

It will greatly lower the overly-aggressive timing, and hopefully let you drive the car at low boost without blowing it up...until you get a wideband and can tune it.

Given all the knock you have right now, you may not even notice a power drop due to the lower Evo 8 timing, as the net timing will probably be close to the same. Regardless, at this point I'd worry more about saving your motor and learning to tune, rather than trying to make power.

 

[DeadlyScone]

It will greatly lower the overly-aggressive timing, and hopefully let you drive the car at low boost without blowing it up...until you get a wideband and can tune it.

Given all the knock you have right now, you may not even notice a power drop due to the lower Evo 8 timing, as the net timing will probably be close to the same. Regardless, at this point I'd worry more about saving your motor than trying to make power.

so you're saying that maybe it would be a good idea to return all settings back to stock and re-do all the base settings?(injectors, MAF, ect.. ect...) I guess the P>PO tuned it with a pyrometer, at least thats what the PO said.

OR
just run the timing tables and stuff and leave everything else alone to save my engine?

 

[Calan]

You are targeting 24* of timing advance at 6K RPMs, knocking consistently in all gears, and have no idea what your AFR is. So yes... I would load the Evo 8 DA tables and keep my foot off the go pedal until you can get a wideband and properly tune your car.

The fuel settings should be set for your injectors and fuel setup; if you are running stock base fuel pressure, it looks like your fuel has been set up for something like 740cc injectors. As for resetting MAFComp (or changing the fuel settings for that matter), you wouldn't be able to see what effect it would have anyway, so I'd probably just leave those alone for now.

In case I forgot to mention it...get a wideband.

 

[DeadlyScone]

You are targeting 24* of timing advance at 6K RPMs, knocking consistently in all gears, and have no idea what your AFR is. So yes... I would load the Evo 8 DA tables and keep my foot off the go pedal until you can get a wideband and properly tune your car.

The fuel settings should be set for your injectors and fuel setup; if you are running stock base fuel pressure, it looks like your fuel has been set up for something like 740cc injectors. As for resetting MAFComp (or changing the fuel settings for that matter), you wouldn't be able to see what effect it would have anyway, so I'd probably just leave those alone for now.

In case I forgot to mention it...get a wideband.

i have 660cc injectors -.- is there something wrong there too?
. this just gets better and better

EDIT: oh and base fuel press is 40-41psi

 

[Calan]

Pump gas on 660cc @ 40psi base, global fuel should be around -34%... so it's set 5% too lean. (Unless your injectors flow more than 660cc, and whoever tuned it knows that for a fact somehow. Or, MAFComp is wrong and they cheated the global fuel value to compensate for that.)

Open up the fuel calculator in Link and check it out.

BTW - It wouldn't hurt to turn the Knock CEL value down to something like 2-3*, so you get an earlier warning at the onset of knock.

 

[DeadlyScone]

Pump gas on 660cc @ 40psi base, global fuel should be around -34%... so it's set 5% too lean. (Unless your injectors flow more than 660cc, and whoever tuned it knows that for a fact somehow. Or, MAFComp is wrong and they cheated the global fuel value to compensate for that.)

Open up the fuel calculator in Link and check it out.

thanks for the help. I really appreciate it, ill go install this new tune on my car and get a new log.

 

[Calan]

Don't mess with the global fuel or MAFComp until you can see actual results; it may make things worse if you are just shooting blind. Just get the EVO 8 maps loaded to drop the timing targets to something reasonable, and watch for knock.

And get a wideband.

 

[DeadlyScone]

Don't mess with the global fuel or MAFComp until you can see actual results; it may make things worse if you are just shooting blind. Just get the EVO 8 maps loaded to drop the timing targets to something reasonable, and watch for knock.

And get a wideband.

so to run off of MAF i need to un-check "disable MAFcomp w/SD operation"
and should i disable MAF clamp also?

 

[Calan]

so to run off of MAF i need to un-check "disable MAFcomp w/SD operation"

Irrelevant. You aren't running SD.

and should i disable MAF clamp also?

I don't know why it would be checked in the first place, unless you are over-running whatever MAF you are using. Who tuned the car initially? Maybe they had a reason to clamp it, but I highly doubt it.

BUT... unchecking it may change your airflow up top, so I wouldn't mess with it until you can monitor your AFR and see what effect it has.

 

[DeadlyScone]

Irrelevant. You aren't running SD.



I don't know why it would be checked in the first place, unless you are over-running whatever MAF you are using. Who tuned the car initially? Maybe they had a reason to clamp it, but I highly doubt it.

BUT... unchecking it may change your airflow up top, so I wouldn't mess with it until you can monitor your AFR and see what effect it has.

not a clue who originally tuned it. i know BoxheadTim tried to tune it a bit before he sold me the car. how do you justify what you are running(MAF or SD)? like what controls that then. i thought it was that checkbox in the MAF comp tab.

 

[Calan]

MAFComp tab > Base MAF Type (drop-down box). And without a MAP and IAT sensor, you wouldn't be running SD... not successfully anyway.

According to your log, you are running a 3" GM MAF with the cable from ECMTuning. And based on that, you aren't over-running the MAF so MAF clamp really shouldn't "need" to be used.

 

[DeadlyScone]

MAFComp tab > Base MAF Type (drop-down box)ECMTuning.

oh, helps to look i guess

okay well i guess now i'am set to go try out my new(and hopefully improved) tune. thanks and ill let you know how it goes.

 

[DeadlyScone]

MAFComp tab > Base MAF Type (drop-down box). And without a MAP and IAT sensor, you wouldn't be running SD... not successfully anyway.

According to your log, you are running a 3" GM MAF with the cable from ECMTuning. And based on that, you aren't over-running the MAF so MAF clamp really shouldn't "need" to be used.

Hey Calan. Since you gave me the advice to put the evo tables in my tuning, my car has been jerky in low rpm's also my car will backfire occasionally is this due to timing being off?

Thanks for any advice.

 

[Calan]

I have no idea. Do you have a log?