Is a HX40 duable with my mods?

[Carlz0r]

Why pay more money for a 20g when an hx35 should be cheaper, more reliable, spools faster, and makes more power?

A brand new 20g (which bolts up to his current exhaust manifold) is $540. A DSM BEP housing for an HX35 is $250, plus the cost of an HX35. It'll be the same price for a used HX35 vs a new 20g. A new HX35 with BEP housing would cost more.

I thought the 20g and HX35 had similar spool times? I could be wrong on that though.

 

[Wicked95AWD]

A brand new 20g (which bolts up to his current exhaust manifold) is $540. A DSM BEP housing for an HX35 is $250, plus the cost of an HX35. It'll be the same price for a used HX35 vs a new 20g. A new HX35 with BEP housing would cost more.

I thought the 20g and HX35 had similar spool times? I could be wrong on that though.

Either turbo would be a good choice, although I'm obviously a fan of the hx35 based on the results I've been seeing from several DSMers who've started bolting them on lately. I guess it all just depends on what he wants out of his car. When I started my HX40 project I kinda got caught up in the whole "ima add another 8 inches to my D*ck and have the highest horsepower car around" mentality. I aimed for the largest turbo, manifold, and hotside combination I could get my hands on in order to reach my power goal with as little frustration as possible. Now that I'm almost finished, I can see that my car will likely be great at the drag strip, but not really any good on an autocross or road-race course because it has amazing top-end power but doesn't spool very quickly. Unfortunately, with small displacement cars like these (even with a 2.4) you can't really have both a nice daily-driver/autocross friendly car, yet still run 9's at the drag strip (at least from my experience you certanly can't do it very cheaply or reliably). It seems like the 500whp/10sec power level is probably a nice middle-ground compromise for a DSM and a smaller 20g or hx35 should get you there without loosing the car's driveability. At the 400-500whp level you should also get to keep the low price, high reliability, and stock driveability of most of your stock parts. For example, a 2g MAF, 2g exhaust mani, the stock head (just drop in some bigger cams), 1G intake mani, 1G throttle body, stock iginition, stock axles and transmission (as long as you don't drive it like you stole it), and even the stock block and internals should be fine at that power level. Regardless, whether you go with the HX40 or opt for something smaller the engine will probably hold up ok as long as it hasn't been abused too badly in the past. If it blows up.. so be it. Just take as many precautions beforehand to try and prevent an engine failure based on negligence as possible. If you drive a modified car long enough it will eventually blow up. It's all part of the game. As long as you take your time and do things right and don't cut corners on the little things (like a good head gasket etc) you should be fine.

 

[dsm-onster]

This is very true. Seeing a reliable consistant 450-500whp from a 6bolt is common place; any arguement contrary is a laugh at best when some have driven these blocks for years at 580-620whp. So siimply look at the results all over this forum and follow their approach. That's your best bet. You will be far more concerned about drivetrain troubles as long as you do just that; stick to your guns with head gasket install procedure, quality head fasteners, tune with a constant eye on knock, and use the right oil for the task.

And I agree that you're better off with a smaller turbo if this is your ultimate realistic goal. The hx35 is much more fun on the street than the hx40. The td05h 10cm^2 20g that's for sale for 500ish is significantly slower in response than a bolton hx35. And you have the issue with adapting it to your nice fp race manifold. You could keep the e3 16g and use the turbine housing with the 20g, but then you're really going against the reason to upgrade to the 20g compressor wheel. It's possible but not as easy to get 20g power from a 16g hotside with stock 1g compression. But regardless, I think it would be better for you to have the 16g remain whole so you can sell it and recover much of the cost going to an hx35. Sounds much more reasonable and you will have more than enough turbo for the task with dsm flanges and a nice spool for the street.

. . . One more thing to add. You're running alcohol, but don't be too greedy with timing. It's about timing right, not timing advance.