darknezz7
Proven Member
- 571
- 83
- Mar 30, 2014
-
Eugene,
Oregon
Hello all, first of hopefully many posts here. My friend has a 1997 Eclipse Spyder automatic with the 4g64 2.4l. Recently the car has been giving him some troubles with idle and a missfire, got most of that sorted though, now his trans is giving up. With 220k miles on it when bought I warned him not to expect much life left out of it.
So a build is in order, I convinced him to learn how to drive a manual and he is set on wanting more power, nothing crazy but something fun. I told him it would be best to just find a whole car to take everything off of. Well we found a 1995 gst manual 139k miles for 1000 bucks that "bent a valve" it also has nice leather seats that my friend has wanted in his Spyder.
I want to make a fully documented build thread out of this because there is sooo much scattered and broken info on this swap. I know some of you will say "search" "been covered over and over" "4g64.150m.com" but you know what, most of the links DO NOT WORK ANYMORE, the info if vague and leaves out details, tons of threads where people have started with no finish posted.
Here is what I have gathered from tons of different places, cross confirming with others places to see if its actually right. Please correct if anything is wrong.
The head will bolt right up, use all parts from the 4g63, ecu, fuel pump, ect.
I know about the oil passages that need plugged up.
Transmission will bolt right up.
I can use the 4g63 timing belt if I use 2 tensioner pulleys
"Best way is to use two tensioner pulleys. Replace the idler pulley with a tensioner pulley. Line the cams gear up to tdc like a 2l setup. Lock timing the belt to the cams gears using zip ties. Put the crank to tdc for number one cylinder. Tension the belt on the old idler pulley side first. Then do the tension on the hydraulic tension side. You can use a standard 2.0 timing belt this way. Plus the car will idle perfect this way. You can degree your cams from this point if you like but you might better off leaving it alone. "
I will need adjustable cam gears.
I will do balance shaft delete.
ARP Head studs and MLS head gasket will be used.
Q 1. His car has that fuel pump module thing, that needs bypassed yes? Have found mention of this but nothing on how to do it.
Q 2. I have read I need the head gasket from a 1994 DOHC galant, why will the 4g63 gasket not work? Where can I find a MLS gasket for the galant? Previous posts with links to companies that sell it are all dead.
Q 3. Might have to do something with the CAS or is that only on 1g?
Would love to do JE pistons with Eagle rods and BC valve springs titanium retainers for another $1100 then future cams, but I don't think it will happen and probably not necessary for what he wants.
FINALLY MY BIG QUESTION
About pistons, I know I cannot use the stock 4g64 pistons because CR will be too high for boost, 11:1 I've read. The 4g63 pistons will not work? I know manley, wiseco and je all make custom pistons for custom CR specifically for this application, starting at $500...
I have read about using 2.4l PT cruiser turbo pistons? Now I have seen on several places people confirming all these things.
"The PTt pistons are for the 420a engines"
"The PTt pistons will work great and give around 9:1 CR"
""The PTt pistons will work if some is machined off the top"
So what is right? Cause those pistons are under $200.
Thanks for any insight
So a build is in order, I convinced him to learn how to drive a manual and he is set on wanting more power, nothing crazy but something fun. I told him it would be best to just find a whole car to take everything off of. Well we found a 1995 gst manual 139k miles for 1000 bucks that "bent a valve" it also has nice leather seats that my friend has wanted in his Spyder.
I want to make a fully documented build thread out of this because there is sooo much scattered and broken info on this swap. I know some of you will say "search" "been covered over and over" "4g64.150m.com" but you know what, most of the links DO NOT WORK ANYMORE, the info if vague and leaves out details, tons of threads where people have started with no finish posted.
Here is what I have gathered from tons of different places, cross confirming with others places to see if its actually right. Please correct if anything is wrong.
The head will bolt right up, use all parts from the 4g63, ecu, fuel pump, ect.
I know about the oil passages that need plugged up.
Transmission will bolt right up.
I can use the 4g63 timing belt if I use 2 tensioner pulleys
"Best way is to use two tensioner pulleys. Replace the idler pulley with a tensioner pulley. Line the cams gear up to tdc like a 2l setup. Lock timing the belt to the cams gears using zip ties. Put the crank to tdc for number one cylinder. Tension the belt on the old idler pulley side first. Then do the tension on the hydraulic tension side. You can use a standard 2.0 timing belt this way. Plus the car will idle perfect this way. You can degree your cams from this point if you like but you might better off leaving it alone. "
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I will need adjustable cam gears.
I will do balance shaft delete.
ARP Head studs and MLS head gasket will be used.
Q 1. His car has that fuel pump module thing, that needs bypassed yes? Have found mention of this but nothing on how to do it.
Q 2. I have read I need the head gasket from a 1994 DOHC galant, why will the 4g63 gasket not work? Where can I find a MLS gasket for the galant? Previous posts with links to companies that sell it are all dead.
Q 3. Might have to do something with the CAS or is that only on 1g?
Would love to do JE pistons with Eagle rods and BC valve springs titanium retainers for another $1100 then future cams, but I don't think it will happen and probably not necessary for what he wants.
FINALLY MY BIG QUESTION
About pistons, I know I cannot use the stock 4g64 pistons because CR will be too high for boost, 11:1 I've read. The 4g63 pistons will not work? I know manley, wiseco and je all make custom pistons for custom CR specifically for this application, starting at $500...
I have read about using 2.4l PT cruiser turbo pistons? Now I have seen on several places people confirming all these things.
"The PTt pistons are for the 420a engines"
"The PTt pistons will work great and give around 9:1 CR"
""The PTt pistons will work if some is machined off the top"
So what is right? Cause those pistons are under $200.
Thanks for any insight
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