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2G Interior light conversion - premade kits

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evening, just installing my kit now but how did everyone find the speedo accuracy after the installation? Rpm and everything looks exactly like stock but I got the 300km/h and it starts looking off compared to where the stock gauge sits
Need more clarification. Are you wondering how to recalibrate because you took the speedometer needle off?
 
How did you get the smaller gauges to slip over the needles. I can’t get them to go and can’t figure how to get the needles off. Have the larger two done

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its been a while but i think for the smaller gauges...on the boost gauge/ oil pressure side i ended up taking those needles completely off...i didnt care if tthey worked anymore because i have separate gauges for both...boost still works..couldnt figure out oil pressure...maybe some else can answer that., but on the fuel and coolant side... i think i was able to maneuver one side at a time that way. i had to carefully bend the needles upward ..but i dont think i had to take them off if i remember correctly....

For the speedometer...its not going to match up 30 to 30, 40 to 40, 50 to 50 etc because the gauge is in kilometers, it it should match up to the secondary smaller numbers on the orginal mph gauge that are closer to the center....let me know if i misunderstood you...

I didnt like having to learn km/h and my wife told me i was always 5-10mph over when she would cruise out with me so i ended up contacting Moman and getting an MPH gauge and sold the Km/h to a local dsmer who was European and already familiar with driving in km/h

when i pulled the needles off for the boost side...a fork was the perfect tool...just slide it under and carefully pull upward....i had marked where the coolant temp sat and the gas gauge was when the car was fully warmed up. Put the cluster back in without the glass, lined up the needles with the marks after the car was warmed up. But with these gauges i dont think i took the needles off with this cluster...

probably wait for others to answer tomorrow. They might remember it better because its been a good while since i did this
Thanks, i'll give it a try. I only have KPH on my speedo since i'm in canada. It just looks like the speeds dont match up on the new one vs the factory speeds.
 
Sorry dude, it was almost midnight here when we were talking.. Thinking about it some more.. I was following along with the video that i posted in post #4. The only difference was that I didnt take the tach and speedometer faces completely off like he does to get the 2 small gauge cards in. But it is just a few screws in the back of the cluster to do so if it helps. But you wont be able to maneuver them around like I originally said because the needles arent the circle shape like the tach and speedo. They gotta come off.

I also followed this thread...


It shows how the fork was used and getting the oil pressure gauge back together(which i never figured it out and didnt care too much since I have an aftermarket one). The needles are in there good, so yeah, youre going to have to gently, muscle them up. I did more lifting than I did prying only because i thought i would break something if i tried prying to hard. Just kept my thumb over the the top so i didnt fling the needle across the room.


I dont really know what to say about the numbers being off... The only reference that I have to how they match up is what is on the Moman website. The big numbers on the left match the small red numbers on the right. But Ive never actually seen what a km/h only gauge in a DSM looks like and didnt even know it was a thing, so I cant really speak intelligently about it.

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There was also a 240 km/h gauge that they offer... Im unsure of what DSM that is for... to what number does your OEM gauge go?

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I’ve got the speedo, boost and tach done. Just have to work on the last small gauge. The fork trick works but it’s almost an uncomfortable point where you think the needle will break

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Be aware of this. Because it happened to me too...
Pay some attention to the small discs from fuel and water temp, if they are not totally flat , the needle can stuck on them. You will see that after you put all togerher 😄 and then you can do it again to fix it.
If you see that one is not flat and will not stay down, its good to use a very thin double sided tape to hold down.

Double sided tape didnt solve the issue for me because it was just a tiny bit of the upper right hand corner.. It was where they connected the wire to the gauge plate. It sits a little high and prevents the needle from rotating all the way back down. I had to leave the needle for the coolant raised just a hair so that it would clear. You might want to test for that before you button everything back up. That was the only needle that was a slight issue, but yours might not have the wire tapped in the exact same spot as mine.
 
Was able to just pry the needles up and not remove the backing

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Awesome!
See that little indent on the right side of the coolant needle... That top corner of the indent is where mine was getting hung up and not letting it drop all the way to cold.
 
Awesome!
See that little indent on the right side of the coolant needle... That top corner of the indent is where mine was getting hung up and not letting it drop all the way to cold.
That’s never good. My only issue now is the odometer the two wires snapped off at the solder. Hoping to just resolder them back today.

Think I would be fine testing everything off a 12v battery before I put it back in the car?
 
Where did you connect the inverter, it shows both red and black but apparently they’re both positive?
SOmeone else is going to have to chime in with that info to be certain.. i havent gotten around to wiring because i got sidetrack with the intercooler install and radiator flush. But i think the red wire needs to be spliced into the green/white wire from the dimmer switch and the black goes to ground. The green/white wire can also be found connected to the cigarette lighter light because it dims too.
 
Looking at the instructions it showed almost two positives, I was assuming black was just a ground but instructions aren’t that clear
 
Just updating this thread with some info from installing these gauges myself so that others an have an easier time. After pulling the panel underneath the steering wheel to get access to the dimmer switch and finding it too short and awkward positioning ( based on me not being great at soldering) I ended up using the green/white wire from the cigarette lighter for the positive and the black wire with the clip for ground as the cigarette lighter is also part of the dimmer and has the same green/white wire. The wires for the inverter are very thin so be careful not to strip too much wire away with the insulation. It is fairly simple to wire these up, but you definitely will want to run a little power to these to that these light up and the inverter is good before you go fishing wires though the dash.

These are the "white" model 6 gauges along with the HVAC gauge:

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Did you guys have any issues with the oil/gas/water gauge? I’m just trying these out now as my car is ready to start but when I turn the key on the gauge doesn’t move. Not sure if this is an issue or if the gauges don’t move until the car is actually on.
 
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