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Important Ams Balance Shaft Info !!!!!!!!!!

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BkzProblem

10+ Year Contributor
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Sep 7, 2008
Brooklyn, New York
I have been doing some research on blance shaft kits for my car... i saw this on AMS website... Now i know AMS knows their shit and this makes alot of sense.... Can Anyone tune in and give me some feedback.. Im not sure if this is just for the EVO because it was in the dsm section.... Here is the link to the website....

Automoto Sports Copyright&copy AMS 2006

This is the same Balance Shaft Elimator Kit used in all of our AMS built shortblocks. With this kit, you will be able to eliminate your balance shaft belt, while extending the life of your oil pump.

This is the same kit used in our 1000whp drag car and Record Breaking Time Attack car.

This kit includes:

AMS spec CNC Machined Race balance shaft

Clevite Balance Shaft Bearing

Block Off Plug

***NO CORE IS REQUIRED***

In our experience using a stub shaft when removing balance shafts can increase the chances of oil pump failures. This can be caused by the lack of support provided by the rear bearing on the original balance shaft. The support is needed to prevent the oil pump gears from pushing apart and wearing into the aluminum pump housing. Once the process begins the gears can continue and wear enough to cause them to seize. During this whole process the aluminum that is being worn away can enter the clean oil stream and contaminate engine bearings and other components causing them to wear prematurely.

To help prevent this process we have come up with a way to support the oil pump gears and still remove the rotating mass. We start with a stock balance shaft then, spin it in a lathe to make sure there is no radial run out. This ensures that the shaft will spin true in the bore and not cause premature bearing wear. We then machine the weights and extra material off in a precision lathe and re measure run out to verify nothing changed during the machining process. All parts get cleaned thoroughly and are ready for installation. In the pictures below you will see the differences in the three shafts available. There are also substantial weight differences in the three shafts as seen below.


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I've run a machined down shaft for a couple yrs now in the stroker.. Theres a few others out there as well.. I've had no issues with it,, On one hand you have the needed support, but on the other hand you still have a shaft turning at 2x the engine rpm...
 
could just run the stubby shaft..mitsu makes one for a reason.

i've run two 4g63's this way and never had any kind of problems.
 
Werd, I don't see any problems with running a stubby shaft, MANY of us use them in high HP motors and have no problems with any oil pumps or gears wearing out. Waste of money in my opinion...
 
Not worth the money. $300 for something that takes 20 minutes to machine down. It better be ti for that price. I would just use a stubby and put the money some where else.
 
This part will fit all 4G63's, it doesnt matter if its for a Evo or DSM. It is a part that we thought up when we were first getting into road racing, we wanted to make every part that we could was made bullet proof. We found that running a 4G63 all out for 10+ minutes in a race takes its toll on things we never thought of including the oil pump. We ran our time attack car a full year on the same engine making 600+whp and never had an issue, and to say the least it got the snot beaten out of it. Our drag car also runs the same shaft, along with my mirage.

Its one of those things that just adds a little extra insurance to any engine from a stock rebuild to a $10k+ race engine. Some people say its a waste of money, others swear by it. I personally have always used one in my engines that will see over 500whp, I just dont feel safe putting in a stub shaft that was made for a 100hp 4g61.

If you have a balance shaft to send in as a core I can knock a little $$ off, PM me if you are interested in getting one.
 
I've run a machined down shaft for a couple yrs now in the stroker.. Theres a few others out there as well.. I've had no issues with it,, On one hand you have the needed support, but on the other hand you still have a shaft turning at 2x the engine rpm...

Just to add to an old thread keep in mind that the shaft spin with no load on it unlike the rest of the rotation assembly chances of failure is slim to none. The shaft will only fail if it was getting zero oil and not from rotational speed alone, just my .$02;)
 
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