I'm looking for the 6 bolt swap guys!! could use some help

[hunt1091]

Where all did you guys ground your motors? I started this from scratch no motor in the car. I have a miss that shows up after I'm driving down the road when its hot outside and it changes cylinders and I'm just stumped at this point I've tried changing ICM, playing with the CAC any hep would be much appreciated.

 

[gofer]

A little bit of research on this matter goes A LONG way. This swap has been done thousands of times and there is plenty of information out there, you just have to take the time to find it.

Get a black top CAS, install DSMLink, or try this fix from Magnus Motorsports. 1g in a 2g

IF CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS OCCUR! TRY THIS:
Many people using the 1G CAS on a 2G head have been running into problems with misfire engine codes
while at cruise. Many different things have been blamed for this and many different fixes have been attempted.
This fix will keep the ECU from looking for misfires at all. This is the criterion that must be met before the
ECU will start to look for misfires:
· 300+ seconds of steady state RPM less than 80% throttle position
· Engine coolant temperature -10C or higher
· Intake air temperature -10C or higher
· Barometric pressure greater than 76 kPa
Now if we can get one of these values outside of the criteria the ECU won't check for misfires. The value that
would be the easiest to change would be the barometric pressure sensor. We're going to add resistance to
this value so that the ECU will see less barometric pressure than what there really is. This will also lean the
car out so you should see a performance increase as well. Depending on the car and altitude you might need
to add more fuel with an AFC.
So let's get started, Parts needed:
· A 10K potentiometer (although a 5K would probably do just fine). These are available at any
electronics store, if you go to Radio Shack ask for a volume control knob because they don't know
what a potentiometer is.
· Wire strippers
· Soldering iron
Step 1: Remove the access panel on the driver's side of the center console. You should now see four plugs
with a ton of wires going to them.
Step 2: Pull out the top plug, it'll be the one that's the hardest to reach. Locate wire #85. It's orange with a
white stripe.
Step 3: Cut the orange wire in half. Solder one end of the wire to the center peg of your potentiometer.
Solder the other end to either the left or right leg, it doesn't matter which. Turn your potentiometer all the
way counter-clockwise.
Step 4: Plug the harness back in and start up the car. It should sound like it did before you did any
modifications. If the idle is choppy or the car won't run you turned your potentiometer the wrong way.
Step 5: Add resistance to the barometric pressure sensor by slowly turning the knob on the potentiometer.
Drive the car around; if you get a CEL then add some more resistance. Keep doing this until you no longer get
the CELs.