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I'm finally joining the turbo club!

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chris712vt

15+ Year Contributor
524
6
Mar 27, 2006
SLC, Utah
Hey guys, the time has finally come for me. I just bought a beefed up version of a star turbo kit and it should be shipping to me this week. On the way is:

- Star manifold
- Turbonetics T3/T04e
- 3" custom downpipe
- Turbonetics Delta II wastegate
- dump tube
- big 20x10x3 Spearco FMIC
- custom IC piping already made for this kit
- oil supply line, oil return, and second oil pan already drilled for the return
- Missing Link

Also, I decided to pick up one of the new Synapse Synchronic BOVs with the group buy going on this month. That should be here this week too.



Now I have two questions regarding my jump to the turbo world:

1) I have a fully built 2.2 Howell stroker. For the first 12,000 miles of its life it was boosted, the past 5-6,000 I have had it running NA. This turbo kit and all the parts included are also slightly used. Will I need to go through any sort of break in period after installing everything like you usually would or am I fine to just fire it up and drive around with low boost?

2) I am on a very tight budget right now. I could barely afford this kit at the moment, thus I don't have much money left over for my fuel setup. My plan is to invest in a Walbro 255, Aeromotive 1:1 fpr, larger injectors, and MSnS sometime during the mid/late summer when I can afford it. However, in the mean time, will I be able to run 6psi, 8psi, or even 10psi on a stock fuel system? (or is it absolutely necessary to at least have a fuel pump and fmu/sfmu?) Like I said, I am pretty much drained, and I would prefer to run low boost on a stock fuel system for a few months rather than spend more money taking the middle step now, only to take the bigger step later this summer. (my goal in case anyone will ask is to run ~20-22psi daily for a very fun street car, not really a race car, shooting for the 300-350whp range once I have my fuel system.)

Thank you all in advance for you help!
- Chris
 
Glad to hear you are finally coming to the dark side bro!

1. If you engine is broken in already, you should be able to just bolt up the turbo components and have at it.

2. You must have upgraded fuel components to run boost. A Walbro 255lph HP fuel pump + an FMU is the least you should have to be safe and is only really good for up to 8 psi max. An fmu can be found used for under 100 (I got mine for $40) and a fuel pump for around $100. If you want to run more boost, you need bigger injectors and some way to control them (SFMU, MSnS, Portfueler, AEM F/IC).
 
Thanks for the info Mike. Like I said, I plan to upgrade my injectors and go the MSnS route once I can afford the time and money required. But for now it looks like I need a fuel pump and FMU before I start installing my new parts.

I found one used FMU, the person wants 100. Is that reasonable or keep looking? Summit has them new for 162...

Also, any advice as to the best places to buy a Walbro 255 from? Howell Automotive has the Walbro for 109, and Concept Illusions for 99. Any other good (or better) places to consider? Potentially some gauges as well? (thinking about boost and oil pressure. I'll wait on an a/f until I get a wideband with the rest of the fuel system)
 
Thanks for the info Mike. Like I said, I plan to upgrade my injectors and go the MSnS route once I can afford the time and money required. But for now it looks like I need a fuel pump and FMU before I start installing my new parts.

I found one used FMU, the person wants 100. Is that reasonable or keep looking? Summit has them new for 162...

Also, any advice as to the best places to buy a Walbro 255 from? Howell Automotive has the Walbro for 109, and Concept Illusions for 99. Any other good (or better) places to consider? Potentially some gauges as well? (thinking about boost and oil pressure. I'll wait on an a/f until I get a wideband with the rest of the fuel system)

You can find a better deal on an FMU than that. I think I sold mine for $60. As for fuel pump, they're all right around the same price. I think the cheapest I've seen is $97 shipped but I forget where. Or, if you're really strapped for cash, why don't you just wait till summer to install and this way you have time to save a bit more in case you need to hunt down some random/miscellaneous parts, then do it all at once.
 
You guys sound like star wars nerds with with plastic light sabers and Vader outfitsROFL

Anyway yeah do your self a favor and just wait get the pump and the 12:1 fmu and then throw everything on at once. Good luck:thumb:
 
You guys sound like star wars nerds with with plastic light sabers and Vader outfitsROFL

LOL you're right!

Anyway, I've been looking around for Fuel Pumps, FMUs, and gauges and I'm pretty sure I've got it narrowed down. ExtremePSI has the Walbro 255 with install kit for 95 which I plan to get, and I'm still looking for used FMUs here and on 2GNT. After researching and planning my turbo system for over a year now, and finally getting a chance to do it, it would be waaay too hard to get the parts and just pack them away for 6+ months while I wait for my entire fuel setup. I would much rather pick up the essentials to run low boost and get started. I'm sure you understand haha. (That's why I wanted to ask these couple questions, because I don't want to cut corners, I want to make sure I have everything I need to safely run 8psi for a while.)

Also, regarding the gauges, I found I can get Autometer boost/vac and oil pressure gauges for ~$115. Is there anything wrong with using mechanical gauges? I would assume not. Do most of you use mechanical or electric, even though they cost 3 times as much?
 
Mechanical gauges are fine for things that don't involve hot or flammable fluids flowing into your engine bay. Most would warn against using them for oil or fuel pressure. I use all electrical gauges right now, but I'm not adverse to mechanical.
 
LOL you're right!

Anyway, I've been looking around for Fuel Pumps, FMUs, and gauges and I'm pretty sure I've got it narrowed down. ExtremePSI has the Walbro 255 with install kit for 95 which I plan to get, and I'm still looking for used FMUs here and on 2GNT. After researching and planning my turbo system for over a year now, and finally getting a chance to do it, it would be waaay too hard to get the parts and just pack them away for 6+ months while I wait for my entire fuel setup. I would much rather pick up the essentials to run low boost and get started. I'm sure you understand haha. (That's why I wanted to ask these couple questions, because I don't want to cut corners, I want to make sure I have everything I need to safely run 8psi for a while.)

Also, regarding the gauges, I found I can get Autometer boost/vac and oil pressure gauges for ~$115. Is there anything wrong with using mechanical gauges? I would assume not. Do most of you use mechanical or electric, even though they cost 3 times as much?

Gauges are important but I have never been one to splurge on them as to me ebay gauges work just as good in my experience. I picked up a 3 pillar full pod with gauges for like 125 or something with boost gague oil pressure and light show gauge(just to fill the third spot) including shipping off ebay.
 
Thanks for the input guys. Haha, Paul, I guess I would rather keep the hot and flammable fluids away from me inside the car.

Anyway, I just realized that when I was price checking I've been looking at full-sweep electrics (270*), and ignoring short-sweeps (90*). There is a major price difference: ExtremePSI (lowest prices so far) has the Autometer Cobalt full-sweep electric oil psi for $188 and short-sweep for $69.

So anyway I'll go with a mechanical boost/vac ($61) and a short-sweep electric oil psi ($69) and still not break the bank too much.

Would you all agree that if you could only get three gauges, they'd be boost/vac, wideband a/f, and oil pressure? I guess that question doesn't really have a direct answer - I think those are the most important - I just figured I'd ask the rest of you. I'll have to wait on the wideband a/f, but I don't need it until when I start adding fuel and boost and tuning anyway.
 
Also, before I complete my order at ExtremePSI, is there a benefit to having one over the other between the regular Walbro 255 and the Walbro 255 High-Pressure? Same price, but I don't know if I need one verses the other.
 
Also, before I complete my order at ExtremePSI, is there a benefit to having one over the other between the regular Walbro 255 and the Walbro 255 High-Pressure? Same price, but I don't know if I need one verses the other.

Def the walbro 255hpl(high pressure)

Some of us have more use for a nitrous pressure gague than a boost gauge :sneaky: but yeah those would be the gauges I would get if I were you.
 
Def the walbro 255hpl(high pressure)

Some of us have more use for a nitrous pressure gague than a boost gauge :sneaky: but yeah those would be the gauges I would get if I were you.

only babies are bottle fedROFL just kiddin man.

sorry to merge into your thread man, but im about to go this route as well. i was wondring the same things about the fuel setup, but after days of searching old threads i found yours. now with that cleared away. what about ignition setup? does anyone know if there is any ignition tuning to do to run up to 8psi of boost?? or is the stock setup fine for this too?

thanks everyone
:dsm:
 
only babies are bottle fedROFL just kiddin man.

sorry to merge into your thread man, but im about to go this route as well. i was wondring the same things about the fuel setup, but after days of searching old threads i found yours. now with that cleared away. what about ignition setup? does anyone know if there is any ignition tuning to do to run up to 8psi of boost?? or is the stock setup fine for this too?

thanks everyone
:dsm:

The only way to support a turbo system ignition wise on a 420 a is to hire a guy with really big legs like the monster commercial to sit in your trunk and pedal to build up a huge spark to prevent knock. ROFL

As long as all your stock stuff is in good order your srtock system will be plenty fine for boost.
 
Update for me:

- check cleared for the turbo kit, shipping
- ordered synapse synchronic bov, shipping
- ordered prosport electric oil psi and electric boost/vac gauges (defi knock offs), shipping
- ordered walbro 255 and gauge pod from extremepsi, shipping
- .....still looking for a freakin fmu! there have been 3 or 4 on 2gnt recently but all are sold already.
 
Update for me:

- check cleared for the turbo kit, shipping
- ordered synapse synchronic bov, shipping
- ordered prosport electric oil psi and electric boost/vac gauges (defi knock offs), shipping
- ordered walbro 255 and gauge pod from extremepsi, shipping
- .....still looking for a freakin fmu! there have been 3 or 4 on 2gnt recently but all are sold already.

Paul sells em I'm pretty sure. I was gonna buy one from him before I decided to go bottle instead of boost.
 
The only way to support a turbo system ignition wise on a 420 a is to hire a guy with really big legs like the monster commercial to sit in your trunk and pedal to build up a huge spark to prevent knock. ROFL

As long as all your stock stuff is in good order your srtock system will be plenty fine for boost.

ok, so that stock ignition system will hold up to 8psi? no ignition timing problems, usually? thanks guys
 
Well I got my oil pressure and boost/vac gauges, center bent gauge pod, and fuel pump yesterday. Bought a Vortech 12:1 from Terry, so that should be on it's way to me as well as the rest of the parts. So I've got everything I need, just waiting for the parts to arrive and then it's time to install!

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