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1G Idle Speed Control

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back of the intake manifold......2 10mm bolts holding it on

Incorrect. It is located on the throttle body. If you are looking at the engine bay from the front of the car, locate the throttle body; once you see the TB it is on the left right next/below the UICP elbow. The ISC is either tan or black and is held on by 2 8mm bolts.

http://dmtalon.v8eaters.com/ISC.html
 
Only (2) 8mm bolts, not 3. Right below the UICP TB elbow (I think thats the best way to explain it).

In the pics below it shows where the ISC is supposed to be installed and also what it looks like (older original version or newer black updated version).

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Also, if you want to test your ISC to see if it is good or bad you can follow these directions:

(1.) Remove the ISC connector.

(2.) On the ISC side of the connector, you will see 6 pins (see picture). A top row of 3 and a bottom row of 3.

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(3.)With the car shut off, take a ohmmeter and check the resistance between these pins: 1&2, 2&3, 4&5, 5&6.

(4.) This checks the 4 different coils in the ISC that can go bad. You should get readings between 28 and 33 ohms (like in the ohm range); if any of the values are greater, then you have a busted ISC and have to replace it.

(5.) If they check out OK, then it isn't that the ISC coils are bad.

(6.) Be sure to reattach the connector when done! I don't know how many times I forgot about that
 
^^That is correct, but isn't there something you left out involving applying 6v power to the ISC:

# Use a 6volt battery (lantern or camera battery) and apply 6 volts to the ISC motor.
# Use jumper wires to connect the positive (+) terminal of the battery to terminals 2 and 5 of the ISC and the negative battery terminal to terminals 3 and 6 of the ISC.
# If there is no movement or vibration from the motor, then it is bad
# Note: The use of a 12volt battery will destroy the ISC motor!!
 
It gave a reading then went to zero, I really wish i knew how to use this thing.

If you're using a multimeter make sure you set it on the lowest Ohm setting. Are you testing the pins correctly? 1&2, 2&3, 4&5, 5&6?

If that doesn't work then do the test with battery. By the way, what version ISC do you have? I had to upgrade to the newer black version even though I would get the correct Ohm reading on the older version.
 
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I have cel code P0505 and after checking the ohms they ranged from 27 to 28, so what's next? I remember the tuner here in town adjusted my BISS to stop my car from stalling when I pushed in my clutch to coast when the motor was over 2500 rpm. Idle is 1200rpm at warm up and toped out at 1500rpm. I adjusted the BISS at op temp and the idle seems stable at 750rpm now. I'll try cleaning the T/B to remedy the P0505 code.
 
my idle has been messed up ever since I installed my 50 trim. I went out today and tested the ISC with a ohmmeter and my readings were 46.4, 46.4, 46.4, 45.7 (Ohms). Looks like I am buying a new ISC :(
 
my readings were 46.4, 46.4, 46.4, 45.7 (Ohms). Looks like I am buying a new ISC :(
Depending on which version ISC you have that's not an indication it's bad. From those numbers I'd guess it's one of the newer black plastic cased ones.
 
Hey guys, I was trying to fix my idle surge as well and when I test my ISC coils, the reading are around 15 ohms each. Does this mean I need a new ISC? I still need to check with a battery though.
 
Hey guys, I was trying to fix my idle surge as well and when I test my ISC coils, the reading are around 15 ohms each. Does this mean I need a new ISC? I still need to check with a battery though.

Most ISC's are okay to within a 30ohm resistance window.
Beyond that, I'd look for a new one. The only real way is to check for functionality (testing and operation) and practical use. If a visual inspection has you second guessing and your resistance reading is in question, take it to the dealer and get a hands on opinion.

Some major causes of idle surge are vacum leak, leaking or missing BISS, EGR, ISC, or TB is dirty. Start there and eliminate on at a time.

Good Luck! :thumb:
 
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