Idle, ICS, Cold start issues.

[CiscoBite1Time]

I've had irratic idle and cold start issues for some time now. I'm addressing them before spring since I dont drive the car in winter but have been researching while not working on the car.

This is what I have. A 1g in 2g vehicle. Car drives and moves but idle isn't consistant. Once it warms up it's for the most part bareable and driveable. I have a 1g thermostat housing and (i believe) 1g CTS. For the sake of eliminating culpirts I'm going to replace it with a 2g. My ICS came with the TB 1g so it still has a 1g ICS. I thought I read somehwere anything after 90 are all the same. I'm suspecting it's a bad ICS all together because I can't adjust the BISS screw to ~ 30 via ECMLINK. Last but not least I'm not running coolant to my TB at the direction of an old friend. Many years back he said do it. It's for the best. I've done it but he never told me and i never knew to bypass or block the FIAV. So I'm not running coolant to the TB nor am I blocking/bypassing the FIAV.

What damage have I already done with how my current setup is? Especially the FIAV part? Once the weather warms up I'm going to address these parts. I"m planning to reconnect my coolant lines to TB.

 

[Soccerguy136]

By "1g in a 2g" I'm guessing you mean 6-bolt swap into a 2g.

Anyway, there is no damage done to the car by not running the tb coolant lines if you don't drive the car during the winter or whenever it get's below freezing. Their purpose is to help with emissions by helping warm up the tb in colder weather, as well as keep if from freezing in below freezing temperatures. If you plan on driving the car in those temps, I would hook them back up as they do serve a purpose.

That said, since you blocked off those lines and did nothing to the FIAV, that is your cold start problem and why the car has an erratic idle until it's warm. With those removed, you need to screw in the FIAV as far as it will go or block it off.

For more info on that:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/359207-removing-coolant-line-throttle-body.html

As for adjusting the BISS, you only try to do this when the car has reached operating temps correct?

The later (91-92+) ISC are the same as the 2g ones so just test the coils and call it a day.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/386663-dsm-isc-motor-testing-replacement.html

Hope this helps.

 

[CiscoBite1Time]

Thanks for the reassurance.

Yes all times that I've adjusted the BISS screw is only after the car has been warmed up. I'll have to test it with a multimeter because I'm not 100% sure it's OK. All troubleshooting will come after I reconnect the coolant lines.

 

[97gsxIA]

Put your coolant lines back on or put in a bypass/blockoff plate on your FIAV.
The coolant lines will warm that crap-wax in the TB and allow air to flow by it. Reset your BISS while making sure you have your diagnostic port grounded via ECMlink or with a scanner tool. Use airflowperrev, ISCpos, learnedidleadj to set it correctly. Make sure you dont have vac/boost leaks, obviously.

 

[renovatdkitchen]

If you run it in the winter, keep the TB heater lines. I put in a bypass plate and it would barely idle for the first 1-2 minutes, then when having the heater running and drawing more power, the idle would drop very low for a bit.


Also, its not a wax, but just a spring.

 

[97gsxIA]

Correct. Not wax, thinking of a different system. Thank you.
It is a spring that heats up and expands.