Idle climbs the dies...

[stutz43078]

Ok. So I started my new build up for the first time today, all my mods are on my page, and I cant keep her running. When it starts up the idle starts at about 1750 rpm then within a few seconds climbs to about 2250. When it gets to 2250 the check engine light comes on the engine dies. Also when I try to apply the gas to try to ease it down to idle, it still falls flat on it's face. So far I have double checked all my vacuum lines to make sure they were ran right, which they were. The only other thing I have noticed so far is when the key is in the on position my ISC motor is going crazy. I am in the process of testing it, but in the mean time I wondered if anyone else has had a similar problem.

Update. I took the ISC out of the throttle body and put it where I could see it, turned the key over and it's making noise as if it wants to move, but it's not moving at all. I'm guessing this is my problem? Most times this will cause idle surge, and this is slightly different.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Look at terrys dsm idle i posted it up.

 

[stutz43078]

Look at terrys dsm idle i posted it up.

I read that before I posted this. The problem is that this isn't idle surge. The car won't stay running long enough for me to do any of those small test. I found this video though:

YouTube - DSM ISC

The ISC is suppose to do this everytime the key is turned. Mine is making the same noise but with absolutely no movement. I'm pretty sure that it's stuck open, but terrys dsm idle says that I should be getting idle surge if that's the problem, and if that's so my engine shouldn't be dying it should simply have idle surge. I'm looking for some feedback before 9, if I don't get any more replies I plan on going ahead and ordering a new ISC from the parts store and hoping that's it. Thanks for the hint of direction.

 

[92AWDHX40]

It should move exactly if it doesnt get a new one.

 

[stutz43078]

It should move exactly if it doesnt get a new one.

That's what I was looking for good sir. Thanks a lot.

 

[eDeclpse92]

you can test it by ohming it out. its terminals one and two on the sensor side. it should read in between 28 and 33 ohms. maybe this will help

 

[stutz43078]

you can test it by ohming it out. its terminals one and two on the sensor side. it should read in between 28 and 33 ohms. maybe this will help

I'm getting around 50. Guessing that's bad?

you can test it by ohming it out. its terminals one and two on the sensor side. it should read in between 28 and 33 ohms. maybe this will help

Ok. Found this video:

YouTube - DSM ISC motor testing & Replacement

Did the ohm test that he did, all came back good. They were a little high, but he said that it doesn't mean it's bad in the video. I went over all my vacuum hoses and intake hoses again, still nothing. Noticed I had the knock sensor in the wrong hole, fixed that, didn't change anything. Heading up now to order and ISC to at least try to fix the problem. If anyone has any other suggestions I would be thrilled to hear them. Thanks.

 

[eDeclpse92]

if your is at 50 ohms, i would say that is bad. There is a reason why the manuals states that it has to be in between 28 and 33 ohms. yes it may work but it wont work as it was made to. I would personally replace it.

 

[stutz43078]

if your is at 50 ohms, i would say that is bad. There is a reason why the manuals states that it has to be in between 28 and 33 ohms. yes it may work but it wont work as it was made to. I would personally replace it.

Replaced the ISC still with no luck.

 

[eDeclpse92]

I actuually just started my build for the first time as well a couple of weeks ago and had the same exact problem. I grounded the ecu when it got warm and messed with the biss screw and timing. I also, when ecu is not grounded, set the tps at the right ohms. you have to dissconnect it and find ohms across two terminals and rotate it until you get the right ohm reading. Its all in the haynes manual on how to do it. now you can rule out isc, so one down. since it falls flat on its face, it sounds like a sensor. it is throwing a cel, so i would plug a volt meter up to the diagnostic port and find out what code it is throwing...that can be found in the haynes manual too. hope this helps a little. my idle went down but climbs very slowly...i have to figure that out too.

 

[stutz43078]

I actuually just started my build for the first time as well a couple of weeks ago and had the same exact problem. I grounded the ecu when it got warm and messed with the biss screw and timing. I also, when ecu is not grounded, set the tps at the right ohms. you have to dissconnect it and find ohms across two terminals and rotate it until you get the right ohm reading. Its all in the haynes manual on how to do it. now you can rule out isc, so one down. since it falls flat on its face, it sounds like a sensor. it is throwing a cel, so i would plug a volt meter up to the diagnostic port and find out what code it is throwing...that can be found in the haynes manual too. hope this helps a little. my idle went down but climbs very slowly...i have to figure that out too.

So grounding your ecu let it idle? I haven't been able to play with any of the timing/idle stuff due to it not idling. I did find the volt meter trick with the diagnostic sensor but I'm not getting any codes. It's just doing fast pulses. I pulled my MAF connector to make it throw a code to kind of test the ecu and it did. So I now know the ecu is reading all of the primarys. If you found a way to get her to idle long enough to set the timing and idle, do tell, it would be a life saver. I'm working on putting a boost tester together now, thought maybe if I find what is making the rpm's climb and stop it, I can get her to idle. Thanks, very informing.

 

[stutz43078]

Ok. So finally broke down and started taking things apart. When I pulled off my crank pulley and checked my timing, I realized it jumped 2 teeth on the crank sprocket. Went and head and got a better belt and going to redo it tonight. I'll post the results either tonight or tomorrow.