Identify this engine

[MarcVIII]

So I am up as a second chance offer for this engine. Uncertain if its turbo or N/T, whether it runs, if the trans attached to it is FWD or AWD.

Can anyone help guide me and let me know if its a turbo motor or not from the pics?

Ebay Item# 120911337996
1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse 4G63 Turbo Engine and 5 Speed Transmission | eBay

The seller said he received it in a trade, unknown on condition, with these numbers stamped on the engine and trans:
Engine # 4G63 - MX8198
Transmission # KF5M332SPZT

Any help appreciated

 

[yhype]

Looks like a turbo 1G engine and a FWD trans.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Looks like a turbo 1G engine and a FWD trans.

what makes you think its a 1g? if its a 100% stock motor its got a 2g valve cover 2g water neck, 2g TURBO OIL DRAIN LINE.< so yes turbo motor.. its a damn 2g 7 bolt motor... and it is marketed as a NINTEY EIGHT GSX motor... i would think it is what it says it is...he is asking local pick up only! so unless your gonna drive from Ohio to Oregon i think this thread is pretty useless.

Edit: Upon looking up the tranny info its from a 4g64 spyder which is interesting. So FWD tranny
motor is from a 98. Google is your friend

For when you do find an engine that you can actually buy, you wont know if its a good running motor unless you saw it and or got video of it when it was still in a dsm and running. It's kind of a gamble to be honest, if you don't plan on rebuilding anyway, best id say is check for oil seepage traces on the block itself.

Good for rebuildable core or possible runner. <<<<<<<<<<

 

[JusMX141]

1G oil drain, 1G water pipe, large intake ports in the head, half-shaft on the trans, speed sensor and roll-stop placement.

1G block & head (can't tell if it's a 6- or 7-bolt) , 2Ga trans based on part number W5M332NPZT.

 

[PANDARESCUE]

Definitely a turbo engine looks like a fwd and I think its correct on 7 bolt the oil filter assembly looks like a 7 bolt setup

 

[MarcVIII]

Well doing some searching here, the trans code of F5M33 buried in the number he pulled off the stamping shows a 1g FWD trans. So that makes it funny being a 2g engine on a 1g trans from the pics.

He listed as such but isn't really sure of what he has from a phone conversation. He said he didn't know much about the engine but it came in during some kind of trade. He doesn't know if its a running engine or would require rebuilding. If I coordinate shipping, he's fine with dropping it off, but I'm not really looking for a $600 paperweight after shipping.

He said the axles were cut and he has no idea on the mileage from the engine. He was uncertain what he has and a little shady on the phone honestly. His "compression test" was hand turning over the engine and hearing that it blew air out of the spark plug hole. A little hillbilly...

Seems a gamble, but knowing the cam gears are about $200 makes it a little less risky, though I'm guessing that's a new price.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

1G oil drain, 1G water pipe, large intake ports in the head, half-shaft on the trans, speed sensor and roll-stop placement.

1G block & head (can't tell if it's a 6- or 7-bolt) , 2Ga trans based on part number W5M332NPZT.

the metal oil drain is for 1g?!?!!?!!?!? my 2g came with one JUST like that??

google showed me the trans was from a FWD spyder? shit maybe im wrong on that one i just swear its a 7 bolt


honestly man, after reading ### u said about his shadyness.... Dont buy it buy from someone who knows a little more about the motor, and most importantly buy local


OP although i still think you shouldent get it, its possible it has cams in there which could be another 500 dollar part itself... it would seem odd to have adjustable cam gears with stock cams.

 

[19Eclipse90]

1G oil drain, 1G water pipe, large intake ports in the head, half-shaft on the trans, speed sensor and roll-stop placement.

1G block & head (can't tell if it's a 6- or 7-bolt) , 2Ga trans based on part number W5M332NPZT.

This.

Except, what am I missing with the transmission? The serial number given in the OP is for a 2G FWD turbo transmission and I see no evidence suggesting otherwise, i.e., no intermediate shaft bracket, etc..

That timing belt cover is a pretty nice hack-n-patch job to fit the 2G engine mount, though.

 

[JusMX141]

1G cars and 2G cars both came with metal oil drains- the 1G drain is steel with an aluminum flex, the 2G drain is all aluminum with steel flanges.

That is a 1G drain.

 

[JusMX141]

Except, what am I missing with the transmission? The serial number given in the OP is for a 2G FWD turbo transmission and I see no evidence suggesting otherwise, i.e., no intermediate shaft bracket, etc..

I thought there was an intermediate shaft bracket visible in the pic of the rear of the engine, right below the a/c compressor....or is that where the shaft was cut?

If there's no bracket then it's definitely a FWD trans.

 

[19Eclipse90]

1G cars and 2G cars both came with metal oil drains- the 1G drain is steel with an aluminum flex, the 2G drain is all aluminum with steel flanges.

That is a 1G drain.

Not to mention that, if you didn't really know the difference, a 2G oil drain could be modified to fit a 1G.

That and, believe it or not, 1G and 2G valve covers are interchangeable!

 

[Archer Fabrications]

1G cars and 2G cars both came with metal oil drains- the 1G drain is steel with an aluminum flex, the 2G drain is all aluminum with steel flanges.

That is a 1G drain.

in that case its probably a 1g 94 7 bolt or something how can you tell how big the ports are justin? its so shadowy and you could be looking at the rings of carbon left by the manifold gaskets. its a 2g valve cover anyhow.

 

[MarcVIII]

Damn, that's why I love this forum. 35 mins and its reasonably certain we're looking at a 1g turbo that was likely hacked into a 2g at some point. You guys are making this a tough call to buy this thing, condition unknown.

My 2g Spyder wants this I think. What would you guys do?

 

[19Eclipse90]

I thought there was an intermediate shaft bracket visible in the pic of the rear of the engine, right below the a/c compressor....or is that where the shaft was cut?

If there's no bracket then it's definitely a FWD trans.

If that thing all the way over there is the intermediate shaft bracket, that's not an original axle. The bracket is typically located more towards the right side of the A/C compressor as it bolts to the block and A/C bracket on that side.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Damn, that's why I love this forum. 35 mins and its reasonably certain we're looking at a 1g turbo that was likely hacked into a 2g at some point. You guys are making this a tough call to buy this thing, condition unknown.

My 2g Spyder wants this I think. What would you guys do?

if it was me... say no and buy locally, unless you wanna pick up a POSSIBLE junk motor with a set of cam gears and MAYBE cams. IF it is junk, you got a head and cam gears out of the deal... For 450... Let me ask you this, are you trying to drop this thing straight in and hope it runs and to be your DD? If thats the case don't buy it... That motor most likely needs a rebuild. After all I'm sure it was pulled for a reason.

 

[MarcVIII]

I have a blown engine in my 2g, its not a daily driver. I'm looking for something reasonably priced and all there, open to rebuilding if absolutely need be. My engine hasn't been pulled but its making all the marbles in a dryer crushing noises of rod knock. Runs, but next to zero power.

I'm just looking to get it back on the road without putting $1500-2k in a new / rebuilt motor. Body is good, has a few basic bolt-ons.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I have a blown engine in my 2g, its not a daily driver. I'm looking for something reasonably priced and all there, open to rebuilding if absolutely need be. My engine hasn't been pulled but its making all the marbles in a dryer crushing noises of rod knock. Runs, but next to zero power.

I'm just looking to get it back on the road without putting $1500-2k in a new / rebuilt motor. Body is good, has a few basic bolt-ons.

if you are willing to do a rebuild if necessary then go for it! worst case you end up running into what you had already expected. who knows you could end up with some HKS 272s and some AEM cam gears and forged internals haha but its unlikely.

 

[bryanwheat]

There is no intermediate shaft mount. That is the rubber damper on the axle shaft. That is a 2g fwd transmission with a 1g engine.

 

[19Eclipse90]

in that case its probably a 1g 94 7 bolt or something how can you tell how big the ports are justin? its so shadowy and you could be looking at the rings of carbon left by the manifold gaskets. its a 2g valve cover anyhow.

You'd have to assume that a 1G intake manifold was being run on a 2G head for no reason to fill your suspicions, then, because a 2G IM wouldn't be leaving carbon trails that size on the head.

Here's a little extra support material: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/431917-2nd-gen-1st-gen-head.html#post152931766

 

[Archer Fabrications]

You'd have to assume that a 1G intake manifold was being run on a 2G head for no reason to fill your suspicions, then, because a 2G IM wouldn't be leaving carbon trails that size on the head.

Here's a little extra support material: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/431917-2nd-gen-1st-gen-head.html#post152931766

my suspicion was from looking at the exhaust ports and from what little i could make out of the intake side with the damn cam cover over it haha looking at that thread i see the little plaque above cyl 1 and 2 exhaust ports has a bolt on the right side for 1g left for 2g. the ebay pic has that bracket bolt (or what ever it is) on the right. curious if this is a 1g head, 2g valve cover, 7 bolt block, 2g FWD trans. Sounds like alot of mixing and matching, but im also running a mix and match motor, so its probably more common then you think.

 

[MarcVIII]

Could someone have put a 1g in a 2g with a 2g head to avoid swapping the wiring on the CAS / CPS?
This feels like Vegas, I could get a big winner here or a dud.

Would any higher res pictures help clarify and definitely give you guys an answer, he wasn't super friendly and called me private number. But I could see if he will shoot me better pics.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Could someone have put a 1g in a 2g with a 2g head to avoid swapping the wiring on the CAS / CPS?
This feels like Vegas, I could get a big winner here or a dud.

Would any higher res pictures help clarify and definitely give you guys an answer, he wasn't super friendly and called me private number. But I could see if he will shoot me better pics.

pix area always helpful...
The most common setup IMO is 6 bolt block 2g head. A 2g head makes it easier to adapt to the 2gs for obvious reasons, the CAS doesn't really matter, i have a 1g Green Top CAS on my 99 head. you only need a CPS emulator on the 6 bolt as far as i know. I'm not saying thats the case with this motor though cause Justin said he was pretty sure it was a 1g head. after looking at the front case motor mount it is definitely from a 1g, but the only way your going to tell a 6 or 7 bolt is to check the oil pan shape, and crank bolts of course, there is a thread somewhere that shows the differences between the two.

i got my money on 92-94 7 bolt, 1g head, 2g valve cover, FWD Tranny < that they put into a 2g

Edit: i noticed there is actually NO CAS there... which years didnt have one? my 99 came with a silver metal one but it was not adjustable, this one looks like it was either deleted or just never there in the first place.

 

[MarcVIII]

I sent this guy a request for pics of these spots, anywhere else to nail this concretely?

-Additional close ups on the head would be helpful in figuring that out.
-The 1g and 2g engines had different shaped oil pans, if there is any way to get a picture of that, that would help in the determination.
-Pics around the oil filter pickup and the oil return lines on the block are also different, can you take shots there.
-Shots where the trans mates to the engine would be helpful, top and both side views.

 

[Midshipman]

This is what you call a pull-a-part special. Stay Away!!! Regardless of 1g head 2g head it doesnt matter. I have a friend that does this for side money. Go to pull a part, pick a car, cut axles and anything else to make the removal easier, and hit ebay, 125$ into 500$ with a few hours of work. Theres a reason why this car was in a junk yard( note the pick with 20 cars in the parking lot and a motor on a tire). You may get lucky and get a good one but 99% says you get a really nice yard pretty.

 

[19Eclipse90]

looking at that thread i see the little plaque above cyl 1 and 2 exhaust ports has a bolt on the right side for 1g left for 2g. the ebay pic has that bracket bolt (or what ever it is) on the right. curious if this is a 1g head, 2g valve cover, 7 bolt block, 2g FWD trans. Sounds like alot of mixing and matching, but im also running a mix and match motor, so its probably more common then you think.

I do not understand why you are so caught up on the valve cover. The things crack. Swapping them is like changing spark plugs, oil, or your upper timing belt cover. Generally speaking, bolt-on accessories are some of the worst things to use when identifying what an engine (head or block) actually is simply because things can be swapped so easily. It'd be like saying that it must be a complete 2G engine because it has a 2G A/C tension pulley bracket. How much sense does that make?

Edit: i noticed there is actually NO CAS there... which years didnt have one? my 99 came with a silver metal one but it was not adjustable, this one looks like it was either deleted or just never there in the first place.

They all came with a CAS. It's likely just been taken off. Making the '95-'96 style CAS that hides behind the intake cam gear work on a 1G head isn't particularly easy nor is it common and it doesn't work with most aftermarket cam gears.

I sent this guy a request for pics of these spots, anywhere else to nail this concretely?

-Additional close ups on the head would be helpful in figuring that out.
-The 1g and 2g engines had different shaped oil pans, if there is any way to get a picture of that, that would help in the determination.
-Pics around the oil filter pickup and the oil return lines on the block are also different, can you take shots there.
-Shots where the trans mates to the engine would be helpful, top and both side views.

The head is a 1G. Period.
6-bolt and 7-bolt engines had different oil pans. It is not a 1G vs. 2G difference.
As well, it is clearly a 1G block because of where the transmission mates to the engine. It is pretty simple to see that not all of the mounting holes in the transmission are utilized and that there are holes in the front of the block for a 1G mount.

The best bet to determine whether it is a 6-bolt or a 7-bolt is pictures of the timing side focused primarily on the oil filter housing and oil pan.

Otherwise, it is a 1G block with a 2G FWD turbo transmission. Whether it is good or not is a complete gamble.