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Jiggalude

15+ Year Contributor
284
0
May 14, 2005
Lancaster, Pennsylvania
I have an AEM Wideband UEGO sensor. I've read about 15 different posts tonight trying to figure out the best spot for the o2 sensor. I have a 1g and haven't looked very in depth at the exhaust setup. BUT, am I able to use the stock o2 housing location without affecting anything? I DO NOT have DSM link or any other narrow band simulator. I'm not concerned about how long it will last in that location because it is not daily driven. So, can it go there and give accurate results, or will the missing stock o2 sensor cause problems with the car.
 
If you're not worried about the life of the sensor, the stock location will work. It's best to have it appx 36" down stream. I have mine right before my flex section, and have had zero issues.
 
Well there is a stock o2 pretty close to the turbo, but is their another one further down the downpipe I could use. And ghostriderdsm I don't really understand your post.
 
a good place is between the flex pipe and the cat

i had mine right in front of the cat
 
You dont want to install the sensor past the flex pipe because they can sometimes get leaks causing bad readings. If you use the stock location the car will go into to limp mode causing bad gas mileage. I would install it right after the bend in the downpipe and keep the stock o2 installed if you want good drivability.
 
I have an AEM Wideband UEGO sensor. I've read about 15 different posts tonight trying to figure out the best spot for the o2 sensor. I have a 1g and haven't looked very in depth at the exhaust setup. BUT, am I able to use the stock o2 housing location without affecting anything? I DO NOT have DSM link or any other narrow band simulator. I'm not concerned about how long it will last in that location because it is not daily driven. So, can it go there and give accurate results, or will the missing stock o2 sensor cause problems with the car.

Did you read the instructions that came with it?

The instructions tell you the same as the first reply to this thread. 36 inches from the turbo. Thats three feet.

I have mine at the end of my downpipe, right before the flex section for ease of instalation. Just run the wire down the firewall and secure with a couple zip-ties.
Just make sure it doesnt rub the driveshaft. Makes for a clean install.

You cant use the stock O2 sensor location with your setup because the ECU reads off that sensor and you will muck up things disabling it.
 
Did you read the instructions that came with it?

The instructions tell you the same as the first reply to this thread. 36 inches from the turbo. Thats three feet.

I have mine at the end of my downpipe, right before the flex section for ease of instalation. Just run the wire down the firewall and secure with a couple zip-ties.
Just make sure it doesnt rub the driveshaft. Makes for a clean install.

You cant use the stock O2 sensor location with your setup because the ECU reads off that sensor and you will muck up things disabling it.

My bro has ran his wbo2 in the stock location for years and has not failed and so have I. But I dont run it on the downpipe now.

He can still run without the o2 sensor but the car will be stuck in open loop. It will run fine but get crappy gas mileage.
 
For the best readings, closer to the turbo the better. As stated, right before the flex section is an optimum location if you are not going to run it in the stock location with narrow band simulation.

Companies state that 3 feet is the best spot prob. so anyone that does experience issues won't come back onto the company for "burning" it out even though it'll be fine.

Be sure to have the bung welded at a vertical angle to prevent condensation to form on the sensor.

You cant use the stock O2 sensor location with your setup because the ECU reads off that sensor and you will muck up things disabling it.

That's what "narrow band simulation" is for :thumb:

Multiple people have ran the WB in stock location without issues at all like JayRolla said. I'll be running my Innovate LC-1 there as well with NBS on ECMLink.
 
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To save $20 to have a new hole drilled and the bung welded on is a terrible trade off for piss poor gas mileage for the rest of the cars life.

But its not my car and to each his own. :banghead:
 
For the best readings, closer to the turbo the better. As stated, right before the flex section is an optimum location if you are not going to run it in the stock location with narrow band simulation.

Companies state that 3 feet is the best spot prob. so anyone that does experience issues won't come back onto the company for "burning" it out even though it'll be fine.

Be sure to have the bung welded at a vertical angle to prevent condensation to form on the sensor.



That's what "narrow band simulation" is for :thumb:

Multiple people have ran the WB in stock location without issues at all like JayRolla said. I'll be running my Innovate LC-1 there as well with NBS on ECMLink.



The OP clearly stated he didnt have any narrow band simulation or ECMlink in the first post, so its silly to suggest he should use the stock location.

v3narrowbandsim [ECMTuning - wiki]

This should edjumakate you a bit :p

And actually reading the OP will do the same for you. Cheers.
 
Is there no way to trick the stock o2 sensor in to thinking it is still there? If I remember correctly when I had my SRT I believe they used a spark plug non fouler? Is this just used to trick the car into thinking there is still a cat on the car?
 
The OP clearly stated he didnt have any narrow band simulation or ECMlink in the first post, so its silly to suggest he should use the stock location.

That is why I clearly stated that just infront of the downpipe is the best spot for him and how to mount the bung. The link was for you incase you didn't know what narrow band simulation was by the way I ended up reading your post.

Is there no way to trick the stock o2 sensor in to thinking it is still there? If I remember correctly when I had my SRT I believe they used a spark plug non fouler? Is this just used to trick the car into thinking there is still a cat on the car?

For the front o2 you NEED to use narrow band simulation to remove the front o2. I'm not sure if the UEGO has NBS output on it, but without it, there isn't the option of using the front o2.

The trick you are thinking of is either using an o2 simulator which is a few resistors ran in parallel OR you can get a special bung welded in which pulls the sensor tip further out of the exhaust which tricks it into thinking there is more oxygen as less exhaust is going over it. Again, those tricks only work with the rear o2 which you stated it for.

If you went ECMLink or similar you would be able to turn off CELs so you could just unplug it then without worries :coy:
 
Ok, so on a 1g are there 2 o2 housings in the exhaust, and would I be able to use the rear one?
 
The o2 housing is the exhaust part that connects the turbine housing to the down pipe which has a single o2 sensor bung on it.

Our cars only have 1 o2 housing. The 2g unlike the 1g has a rear o2 sensor after the cat which is used to moniter if the cat is doing it's job or not.

Weld the wideband o2 sensor bung right after the bend in the downpipe but BEFORE the flex pipe as that will give you a quick accurate reading which is what you want when using a WBO2.
 
That is why I clearly stated that just infront of the downpipe is the best spot for him and how to mount the bung. The link was for you incase you didn't know what narrow band simulation was by the way I ended up reading your post.



For the front o2 you NEED to use narrow band simulation to remove the front o2. I'm not sure if the UEGO has NBS output on it, but without it, there isn't the option of using the front o2.

The trick you are thinking of is either using an o2 simulator which is a few resistors ran in parallel OR you can get a special bung welded in which pulls the sensor tip further out of the exhaust which tricks it into thinking there is more oxygen as less exhaust is going over it. Again, those tricks only work with the rear o2 which you stated it for.

If you went ECMLink or similar you would be able to turn off CELs so you could just unplug it then without worries :coy:

The UEGO does in fact have a narrowband simulation. For that you would run the white wire from the UEGO into the ecu harness and that would allow you to replace the front o2 with the wideband allowing you to retain stock functionality. I haven't have a problem with my WB in the front location and I don't see why a stock o2 would be able to withstand the heat and a similar make wideband would not, but that is an ongoing debate.
 
Ok, so if I were to tap into the stock ECU location for the stock o2 sensor, do I just splice the white wire from the AEM wideband into that wire, or replace it completely with the white wire. Which is more of a pain, running this wire or taking the downpipe off and welding the new bung in.
 
Ok, so if I were to tap into the stock ECU location for the stock o2 sensor, do I just splice the white wire from the AEM wideband into that wire, or replace it completely with the white wire. Which is more of a pain, running this wire or taking the downpipe off and welding the new bung in.

You dont even have to remove the downpipe. Just take it to an exhaust shop. They only charged me $20 to do mine and it only takes 10 minutes.

If you can jack the car up and put it on jackstands, with a good drill and wealder, you can do it yourself.

For me, it would be more of a PainInTheAss to route that wire down the A-pillar and behind the dash cleanly and splice it into the ECU. Then there is the wire cluster that runs from the AEM gauge past the firewall, all the way across the motor bay and to the O2 housing. More of an eyesore IMO, but I preffer clean installs personally.

But I guess its about the same either way.
 
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