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I completed the HID retro!

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those would most likely take H-1 lights, but i wouldnt do it unless you are gonna retrofit REAL HID's from like an audi or bimmer. They are specialy designed not to produce glare and they have a cut off opint so they dont blind traffic. Do a search on it and you will see there were some recent threads about it. oh and go with the 5000K if you dont wanna listen and just go and do it.
 
yea i have really read up on the rerofitting just because i really dont have the extra money for it, but what exactly are you doing when you do the retro fit. and how much does it usually cost. cuz i know with the conversion im looking at $200-400.
 
i really dont know. Never done it and lost interest a long time ago. I really thing the stock lighting is fine. and i dont have my 97-99 foglights hooked in yet.

Someone else wanna give advice?
 
silverstars, they are like 35 bucks at autozone and they are almost as bright as a HID kit, but fit on your stock wiring.....

seen em on a minivan and I thought the minivan was some kind of pickup racing truck
 
Unless you are going to do a full factory projector retro-fit inside your stock or aftermarket housings ($350-400) you are better off going with Silverstars and save your money for a true HID projector combo some day. The HID kit conversions are good but do not compare at all to a true retro conversion. I have had both 9006 HID kits in stock housings and H3 HID kits in aftermarket projectors. Both had some issues with beam pattern and some unwanted glare that I had to filter out.

Ultimately, I retro'd in set of E55 bi-xenon Hellas like used in Mercedes to get what I really wanted(lots of work).

Ebay projector light exposed!

E55 Bi-xenon retro'd


Before. $119 ebay projectors
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After. Goodbye halos. Hello Hella's.
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yea thanks im probably just goin to go with the silverstar to save money. and plus i like the halos on my lights. but if anyone thinks i should get the conversion let me know cuz after hearing wat people said so far im goin cheap
 
HID conversion kits in stock housings really suck. The beam pattern is all over the place (i.e. lighting overhead freeway signs from 1/2 a mile away).

Projector housings are an improvement, as it gives a better cuttoff and doesnt blind the person in front of you.
 
your best bet is go find some used audi headlights with good projectors and ballasts. i wouldnt reccomend buying any aftermarket headlights... i hang out at a friends dsm shop alot and ive seen all kinds.. the ones i seen kinda like those haols were flashing on and off but they looked pretty neat. if i were you... take your stock headlights.. bake them in the oven take the cover off.. play around with them. the only thing thats really hard to do is to get them to aim right. which then you mount it in your car with the clear part off and kinda play around with it for mounting.

there is alot you can do.. but if you want HIDs dont go buy some kit.. the real good kits you use to beable to get are no longer for sale (because of DOT) so your best bet is retrofitting some audi projectors in yours.. paint the inside black or even cutout like some black plastic or something and make your own background.
 
You can get a kit off HIDPlanet.com for $369 or another one that includes one more part (bulb adaptors) in the $400 range. I am waiting for a response from them on what the bulb adaptor does since apparently the kit without it includes "all you need".

However you will have to buy your own bolts, screws, and wire harness.

For a harness, you can go to www.suvlights.com and order a 9006 harness but tell them it'll be connected to a ballast for conversion. This is what I am doing.

The kit includes projectors. I think it isn't too bad as long as you're willing to do the work.....or have someone do it for you.

Lots of those aftermarket housings on ebay are actually not recommended for HIDs....even if they don't say. I asked one personally and it did not warn about not using with HIDs. But he said he wouldn't recommend in fear of the housing melting. So just buy projectors and stick with the housing you got now....although azdave's turned out nicely.
 
EclpzLvr97 said:
<snip>
For a harness, you can go to www.suvlights.com and order a 9006 harness but tell them it'll be connected to a ballast for conversion. This is what I am doing.

I don't know about 1G or 3G Eclipses but you do NOT need a special harness to run HID ballast on the 2G Eclipse. If you look at a schematic you will see the Eclipse comes factory with a relay setup just like you want. I have run this for over two years with no voltage problems and never a problem firing the ballast up. I use my HID for DRL so they turn on every single time I start the car. Unless you have corrosion or some other fault in the wires from previous headlight swaps you will not have any problems using the factory harness.

You can put HID kit bulbs in aftermarket housings without melting. HID bulbs average about 35 watts and don't heat up the housing anymore than a stock 55 watt 9006 bulb. The aftermarket housings don't recommend HID bulb due to the fact that they are illegal to install them and don't have a quality beam pattern.
 
Thanks for the tips. So the HIDs are actually less watts that halogen??

I just figured HID takes more power, so you'd want another/new harness. But if you have the stock ones in there and have had no problems, then I'll just do basically what you did.

I'm still gonna get the kit from HIDplanet though....it includes projectors which is nice and should be of good quality.

Are yours 6000k? or what?
 
EclpzLvr97 said:
Thanks for the tips. So the HIDs are actually less watts that halogen??

I just figured HID takes more power, so you'd want another/new harness. But if you have the stock ones in there and have had no problems, then I'll just do basically what you did.

I'm still gonna get the kit from HIDplanet though....it includes projectors which is nice and should be of good quality.

Are yours 6000k? or what?



HID ballasts do pull more current for about a 1/2 second at startup than a stock bulb does. That is where some wire harnesses can't handle the load. Yes, they pull less power than the stock system once they are running.

I am using a Hella bi-xenon system from a Mercedes/Audi and they use 4300K D2S bulbs.

My fog/driving lights use a McCulloch kit with 6000K H3 bulbs.
 
Approx 5.75” long, 2.6” lens, 3.35” wide 3.25” tall.
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Will this fit into the ebay projector headlights? I'm planning on doing the HID kit legally, but I need to know what luxury projectors will fit into the headlight housing. What do y'all recommend?
 

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Those seem to be close to the common size of projectors. They should fit fairly easy into another projector houseing but you will more than likely have to modify the housing to mount them.

It shouldnt be that hard to do, just take your time with it, and good luck :laser:
 
They are HID bulbs and to get that effect follow the tech article, you can't just stick in HID bulbs to make it work like that.
 
S_Ranger said:
You know that tech article? http://dsmtuner.com/forums/showthread.php?t=162142&highlight=hid

Well I was wondering what kind of bulbs should I use to get that light effect shown. It depends on the projector or the bulb? Or both?


Its the type bulb in it. its the kelvin rating of them. i belive 6000k are the blue like that, 8000k is purple 3000k is yellow.

if i remember right 5000k is the best light output (lumens) because after that the hotter you get (higher k) you loose lumens.

Hope that makes sense :laser:
 
Ultimatedsm said:
They are HID bulbs and to get that effect follow the tech article, you can't just stick in HID bulbs to make it work like that.
I know, that's why I'm getting projectors and projector headlights. :| So 5000k is blue huh? I always thought the higher the number the brighter the light. Please inform me quick because I'm about to seal the deal with this guy.
 
S_Ranger said:
I know, that's why I'm getting projectors and projector headlights. :| So 5000k is blue huh? I always thought the higher the number the brighter the light. Please inform me quick because I'm about to seal the deal with this guy.


let me see if i can not confuse the hell out of everyone.

Kelvin (k)

A basic unit of thermodynamic temperature (color temperature) used to measure the whiteness of the light output. The higher the number is, the whiter the light is. When over 5000K the light begins to turn to blue as daylight.

Lumen (lm)

The international unit (SI) of luminous flux (quality of lights). For example, a dinner candle produces about 12 lumens and a standard 60-watt incandescent bulb produces 830 lumens. The higher the number is, the brighter the light is.


Sunlight is 5250k, stock halogen approx 3200k

Higher than 5000k gets blue then purple.

4-5000 k is white

3000 and below are yellow then red



Below aprox 4000k Lumens start decreasing with Kelvin. above approx 6000k lumens start droping with higher kelvin (not as much as below 4000k but noticable on a meter)


So in short 5000k are the best for light output and are the closest bulb to true white light.

So if you want light blueish color and the best light output 5000k are for you. if you want color and arent concerend about lumens as much get whatever k you want for your color.


Hope that helps some people :laser:
 
Ok, I learned something new. :thumb: All and all I just want good light output with that blue cut off. So that'll be 5000k right? Do they make anything between 5 and 6000k?
 
S_Ranger said:
Ok, I learned something new. :thumb: All and all I just want good light output with that blue cut off. So that'll be 5000k right? Do they make anything between 5 and 6000k?

As far as i know no they dont make a bulb between them.
 
I had a chat with a member on the board. This is how it works..

To get the real HID conversion I need:
-HID projectors (Check)
-D2s bulb to fit my specific projector (Check)
-Ballasts to power that stuff (Workin on it)

So that's where I got confused. I was thinking if I get HID bulbs, that should go with my HID projectors. Negative...In the end the bulb I'm getting is OEM 4300K and it looks clean. The projector is what gives the cutoff and color I'm looking for, duh.
 
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