Hydraulic clutch issues

[nyTalonTsi]

Ever since i bought this car it has had clutch problems.

First the clutch would stick to the floor and id have to stop to pull it up, it comes back freely. Usually only sticks when you shift in high rpms.

Then once the car warmed up it would grind/hard to go in reverse. Replaced the clutch master with a new oem one and it didn't change a bit.

Replaced the slave cylinder, it seems worse now. It grinds/hard to go into reverse all of the time now.

Yes we bled the crap out of it. My friend has this pump that takes all the air out quick. No bubbles.

Only thing left now is replacing the original metal/rubber clutch lines. There is no leaks, and i feel like this wont change anything either, i hate to keep throwing parts at it.

Ive searched but no similar issue.

Help is appreciated, thanks.

 

[vanilla gorilla]

It could very well be the rubber clutch line thats hindering your clutch from performing like it should. Keep in mind, just because it isnt leaking fluid, doesnt mean it isnt ruptured on the inside. Yes, it sucks to keep throwing parts at it....but personally anytime I have ever needed to change ANY single part of the clutch hydaulics on any car, I replace all three parts ( slave, master, and line). And you might as well replace the flex section of the line with a piece of stainless. And if your going to replace the flex section of the line....you might as well pay $15 extra bucks and completely bypass all of the stock lines with a single piece of stainless. You can get the stainless line kits from extremepsi.com

 

[nyTalonTsi]

Yeah thats what im gonna do. Im just gonna order the whole clutch master to slave kit for $39ish.

I doubt the new clutch master is bad. A couple people tell me it might be bad.

 

[vanilla gorilla]

I would replace it anyway. To save cost, you could always just rebuild yours instead of buying a new unit. I spent around $100 replacing the master and slave on my Spyder. When it came time to do the same to my Hardtop GST, I wised up and just bought the rebuild kits for $30. It was easy to do and works just as good as the new units.

 

[JStoops]

I'd make sure you're bleeding it correctly, the wrong pedal movement can result in air bubbles being stuck in the system. Check the method listed on the VFAQ, solved my problem and I had something similar to yours

 

[notverygood]

Rubber lines tend to swell with time. ALSO-if it gets worse when it gets warm youre getting fade-due to bad fluid (water in it) as brake fluid is anhydrous and attracts it. It then lowers the boiling point. Put some synthetic fluid in there-thatll help with the new line.