Hows my porting coming?

[deflator]

what did you polish it with? cross-buffs? scotch-brite?

looks awesome... you did an excellent job

Thanks, it was just sandpaper I had lying around and some elbow grease. I started at 100 grit and went 220 then 330

All in all, it was a good project. Probably took 9 hours because I'm picky. $15 for the carbide bit, $20 for the die grinder, $3 in grinding stones. I'd say it was worth it

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Hand polishing is great, but if you have access to a dremel with a 1/8" collet, I would recommend some sandpaper drums that look like flaps first and then a set of cross buffs. Great job

 

[ApexVIII]

Hand polishing is great, but if you have access to a dremel with a 1/8" collet, I would recommend some sandpaper drums that look like flaps first and then a set of cross buffs. Great job

here is a 14b that i ported for a friend
gasket matching

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Rough port

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after smoothing it up

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inlet of the 14b

 

[deflator]

I picked up some sandpaper drums and a flap wheel for the dremel today and got the courage to work on the head a little. Gasket matched the intake side, which was all of about a millimeter of material to remove.

Started on the exhaust side (low res iphone pic). I only removed a few millimeters so far, kind of for practice. Only polished up to a 120 grit flap wheel so far. Where can I get these cross buffs?

Let me know what you guys think, porting a newly rebuilt head makes me nervous

 

[turbosax2]

These work well for me:
Standard Abrasives 260013 - Standard Abrasives Cross Buff Kits - summitracing.com

 

[Freerevving]

porting a newly rebuilt head makes me nervous

and it's a bad idea

if you get any good chunks of metal inside, or damage the gasket surface, you could be in trouble... there's not a whole lot to worry about, as I've known many people to do light ports on assembled heads... It's just not the way I do it

btw looks great so far

 

[Freerevving]

Standard Abrasives Cross-Buffs

that's what I use and sometimes the generic equivilent..

but they won't fit on a Dremel, I don't think... I used a 1/4" collet with adapter

It's just Scotch-brite on a stick

Fold up some scotch-brite, and find a pan-head screw that fits into the Dremel collet... then poke the screw through the scotch brite and screw it down... and you should use some super glue in the middle, where the screw is

 

[deflator]

and it's a bad idea

if you get any good chunks of metal inside, or damage the gasket surface, you could be in trouble... there's not a whole lot to worry about, as I've known many people to do light ports on assembled heads... It's just not the way I do it

I packed it well with paper towel, and I don't see why I can't just spray out the port with a hose afterward, or compressed air. That should guarantee no metal shavings are left.

I did nick the gasket surface on the exhaust side with the flapper wheel though

 

[Freerevving]

I packed it well with paper towel, and I don't see why I can't just spray out the port with a hose afterward, or compressed air. That should guarantee no metal shavings are left.

I did nick the gasket surface on the exhaust side with the flapper wheel though

Yeah I meant metal inside the mechanical parts

try not to nick the manifold surface, but definitely be careful where you set the head... the headgasket surface is what I meant

 

[deflator]

Finished with the head, I didn't get too adventurous. I enlarged the ports like 2mm all around and polished it really well.

Now is there any reason to not just blast all the debris out of the assembled head with a garden hose?