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How to wire the 3 gauge pillar on 2g

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Aaron_TSi97

10+ Year Contributor
44
1
Oct 28, 2009
Oxford, Pennsylvania
Ok so i bought the glowshift 3 gauge pillar and gauges. i know where to run the lines for the gauges i specifically wanted to work but i cant figure out where i can supply the power and ground for these gauges:confused: ppl have obviously done it so i just need to know the easiest place to run the 3 power wires and 3 ground wires to supply the light to the gauges, otherwise theyll work but not light up:ohdamn: PM me if you dont want to reply to the thread. thanks in advance!

Aaron
 
I don't have the glowshift gauges (I have autometer) but I run my power from an ignition controlled line from my turbo timer harness, which does not have power interrupted when starting because the gauges need to calibrate. I then have the power line split three ways and each goes through an approproiate fuse before connectong to the gauge. They are grounded to the body behind the center console near the ECU. If you look there you will see other factory grounds. The light power is tapped off the lighter, but my autometers are LED so they don't draw much current.
 
Alright well i really dont want to tap into my turbo timer for power but i understand where i can ground them, any other place i can run the power wires to? and beings as there probably is, how do i tap into that already hot wire to power the gauge lights? are there like splices i need to buy or what? thanks!

aaron
 
Actually, if you have a separate TT harness between your main ignition harness and your TT then it is a great place for tapping ignition power because then you don't have to molest your factory wiring and if you happen to mess up badly then you can just buy a new TT harness which doesn't cost much. Otherwise you will probably have to cut into some factory wiring somewhere else and I'm not a fan of that unless I absolutely have to. I don't know about glowshift gauges but the autometers always calibrate on start-up and need an uninterupted power source when the engine is cranking, which really limits your wiring options.

As far as the connections you can get T-connectors from any parts store but they suck and look pretty crappy. Better off to strip some insulation and do some soldering.
 
Alright cool. See now tapping into the TT wiring harness isnt a bad idea. i thought you meant the TT itself HAHA :ohdamn: that was my dumb fault for thinking that. but yeah those harnesses arent too much, ill def look into doing that. buddy of mine and myself are going to attempt this project this weekend, thanks Vanc.

Aaron
 
you can get power from fuses, it should tell you what kind of power you need for each wire. one is a constant, one is an accessory power source, and one is a ground. I've never wired glowshift gauges but they cant be that different from any other gauges.
 
You could take the power from the cigerette lighter light. If you need an ignition source you could tap into the cigerette lighter itself. I went this route with my AEM wideband gauge.
 
Are the gauges lit all the time, or are they only lit when the headlights are on?

For the ground wires, just put the grounds for all three gauges together and run one wire down to the ground on your cigarette lighter, that will keep things cleaner. You also have the option of hooking that ground wire up to the variable ground wire up by the dimmer switch and then your gauges will dim with your dash lights. I believe the variable ground is the black wire with a yellow stripe.

Do the same for your hot wire, wire all the 12V wires for all three gauges together and just run one wire from them to a source. For your 12V source, if the gauges are lit all the time, you can tap into the cigarette lighter 12V wire, i think it is blue. If the gauges are switchable, so when you turn on your lights they change color, or the light is only on when your headlights are on, then you will want to tap into a 12V switchable source. Any green wire with a white stripe should work for this. There's one by the cigarette lighter, one by the dimmer switch, one in the group of wires that runs down by the steering column, and two under the driver's side kick panel. But if you don't want to mess around for your 12V switchable, you can run a wire out to the fuse box in the engine bay, this is what I did, I used a wire that went to the fog lights. You'll need to pull the fuse and use a volt meter to test all the spots for voltage when the headlights are on and off and see which one gives you 0V when they're off and 12V when they're on. When you find that spot, take off the bottom of the fuse box and find that corresponding wire to that spot, and tap into that.

When you're testing to see if everything is working, make sure the car is on. If your gauges are LED, then they will be touchy about working if they are receiving less than 12V of power. LEDs will die prematurely if they are underpowered, so there is a resistor put in gauges that use them that will keep them from working if they're getting less than 12V.

Use half taps for all your connections, then you won't have to cut the wires to tap into them, this makes it a lot easier, and cleaner.
 
Alright sweet. Ill post up how it goes/going tomorrow when i do it. i printed this whole thread out, has good info in it, also printed a couple of different pages off of VFAQ that was about installing gauges and such. ill be sure to let every1 know how it goes. thanks every1!

Aaron
 
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