pointblank9957
10+ Year Contributor
- 284
- 10
- Jul 12, 2012
-
Sheboygan,
Wisconsin
Edit Note: The TE connector terminals, PN 175265-1, are the terminal that would plug directly into the 2G ECU connector. They are available from Mouser.com and other sources for around $0.25 That would simplify install greatly-- brads
This guide is to help those of you who are doing a Turbo ECU swap in a 2g Spyder GS 4g64. Its a very easy procedure.
For this you will need:
Drill w/ 1/8" Bit
Soldering Iron
Solder
Soldering Flux (Optional, i use it for cleaning the Iron)
Ring Terminal
Male & Female Bullet Connectors (or any connector with 1 terminal)
4 Pennies (98/99 ECU)
Flathead Screwdriver
Heatshrink
Knock Sensor already in Block w/ Connector (There is a hole between cyl 2 & 3 under the intake manifold. To get to it, take the Manifold brace/support/bracket off)
6' of Shielded Wire (I used 18awg)
First thing is to put the Knock Sensor in the Block and Solder the Connector of it to the shielded wire (there should be an inner piece of wire and braided wire surrounding it.
Route the wire through a grommet (I used the steering column grommet) up to the location of the ECU and ground the braided wire to a bolt on the metal bracket under the console via Ring Terminal. Next you should solder one of the bullet connectors to the wire that is inside the braid.
The rest should take place outside the vehicle. Take your ECU apart. If you have a 98/99 ECU like me, use a flathead screwdriver to take metal mounting bracket off. Then use your screwdriver to pry up the plastic casing next to the tabs that hold it together and place a penny under the plastic right in front of the tabs. Do this for all 4. Next use your screwdriver and pry behind a plastic tab and pop! Your ECU motherboard pops out.
We're going to be focusing on this part of the harness terminal. If you look from the top (white sticker) it is the farthest one to the right and also the 2nd largest.
Red box shows it location:
This is the Pin we're going to be following. Its Pin # 78 or if you're looking at the terminals, the 4th from Right and the Very Top (including the offset large Pins):
Follow the Pin through the Terminal and locate it, red box shows it again:
Now the tricky part, you have to flip over the board and still keep track of the pin, i recommend looking at it from the side and putting your fingers on the pin you're following, it allows you to feel for the right position. When you flip it over, it is the 4th from the LEFT on the top, follow? Red box shows it:
The reason it is 4th from the left this time is because you flipped the board over. Next would be to take your Drill and make a 1/8" hole next to the terminals but DO NOT HIT THE BOARD! :
Feed you're piece of wire through the hole. Note: Solder the other bullet connector to the wire. Then solder it to the Pin you've been following like in this picture:
Make sure you don't accidentally solder more of the pins together, and make sure you don't keep you're soldering iron on the board for too long, this could cause electronic failure and your ECU would be gone.
Because you will end up 
Just put everything back together and congrats! You've just wire in a Knock Sensor without buying AMP Pins and having the hassle of getting them into the connector and making contact! Go slap the ECU in your car and connect the bullet terminals together.
This guide is to help those of you who are doing a Turbo ECU swap in a 2g Spyder GS 4g64. Its a very easy procedure.
For this you will need:
Drill w/ 1/8" Bit
Soldering Iron
Solder
Soldering Flux (Optional, i use it for cleaning the Iron)
Ring Terminal
Male & Female Bullet Connectors (or any connector with 1 terminal)
4 Pennies (98/99 ECU)
Flathead Screwdriver
Heatshrink
Knock Sensor already in Block w/ Connector (There is a hole between cyl 2 & 3 under the intake manifold. To get to it, take the Manifold brace/support/bracket off)
6' of Shielded Wire (I used 18awg)
First thing is to put the Knock Sensor in the Block and Solder the Connector of it to the shielded wire (there should be an inner piece of wire and braided wire surrounding it.
Route the wire through a grommet (I used the steering column grommet) up to the location of the ECU and ground the braided wire to a bolt on the metal bracket under the console via Ring Terminal. Next you should solder one of the bullet connectors to the wire that is inside the braid.
The rest should take place outside the vehicle. Take your ECU apart. If you have a 98/99 ECU like me, use a flathead screwdriver to take metal mounting bracket off. Then use your screwdriver to pry up the plastic casing next to the tabs that hold it together and place a penny under the plastic right in front of the tabs. Do this for all 4. Next use your screwdriver and pry behind a plastic tab and pop! Your ECU motherboard pops out.
We're going to be focusing on this part of the harness terminal. If you look from the top (white sticker) it is the farthest one to the right and also the 2nd largest.
Red box shows it location:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
This is the Pin we're going to be following. Its Pin # 78 or if you're looking at the terminals, the 4th from Right and the Very Top (including the offset large Pins):
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Follow the Pin through the Terminal and locate it, red box shows it again:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now the tricky part, you have to flip over the board and still keep track of the pin, i recommend looking at it from the side and putting your fingers on the pin you're following, it allows you to feel for the right position. When you flip it over, it is the 4th from the LEFT on the top, follow? Red box shows it:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
The reason it is 4th from the left this time is because you flipped the board over. Next would be to take your Drill and make a 1/8" hole next to the terminals but DO NOT HIT THE BOARD! :
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Feed you're piece of wire through the hole. Note: Solder the other bullet connector to the wire. Then solder it to the Pin you've been following like in this picture:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Make sure you don't accidentally solder more of the pins together, and make sure you don't keep you're soldering iron on the board for too long, this could cause electronic failure and your ECU would be gone.
Because you will end up Just put everything back together and congrats! You've just wire in a Knock Sensor without buying AMP Pins and having the hassle of getting them into the connector and making contact! Go slap the ECU in your car and connect the bullet terminals together.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
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