I recently broke off a few bolts in my Turbonetics turbine housing, and instead of getting it drilled and tapped, and helicoiled I decided to replace it with a better, higher flowing, cast steel turbine housing from www.bullseye-power.com This will show how to replace your turbine housing, step by step, with the turbo off the car. The turbo I am using is a turbonetics 50trim.
Pic 1: This shows the beginning product w/ the broken bolts.
Step 1, Pic 2: If you are internally gated like me, start by removing the clip that holds the wastgate actuator on, and then slide off the actuator arm like so.
Step 2, Pics 3 and 4: Start loosening and removing the 6 bolts that hold the turbo to the turbing housing. You will need a 13mm wrench. Some bolts will be hard to access so use the open end of the wrench to reach those.
Pic 5: Here is what a closeup of the clip and retainer setup will look like while on the turbo. Your going to have to spin the turbo a bit, while all bolts are loose, in order to remove all the bolts holding it on. You'll figure it out.
Pic 6: Here is the collection of parts you will take off and may need to be reusued if new hardware was not given to you. There is 2 half circle retainers, 3 retaining clips, and 6 bolts.
Step 3, pic 7: Once all the hardware is removed, simply pull the turbo itself out of its turbine housing. Be carefull, it does weigh a few pounds and it is possible to damage the turbine blades so take extra caution!
Step 4, pic 8: Gather your new turbine housing and visually inspect for anything wrong or that might spell trouble. The last thing you want is to put a bad housing on a good turbo.
Step 5, pic 9: Place the turbo back into its new housing, and again, being extra carefull to not hit anything or bend the blades while setting it into place. The turbo should sit flush w/ the housing, if it doesn't then take it back off, because there is a problem.
Step 6, pic 10: Start reinstalling all the hardware in the reverse order. Finger the bolts in, and spin the turbo again to get access to all the holes, making sure they all thread in properlly, and go finger tight on them once you have the turbo exactly where you want it.
Step 7, pic 11: Now tighten down the bolts using the 13mm wrench, going in a criss cross pattern to get even pressure accross the surface. Use the open end side to gain acces to the ones that are hard to reach.
Step 8, pic 12: Bullseye housings come w/ adjustable wastegate adjuster arms. If your internally gated, adjust this now, if needed and make sure you get proper clearance of the actuator arm not hitting the housing.
Step 9, pic 13: Re-install the wastegate actuator arm on the flapper and adjust it accordingly so it has firm pressure so it won't open too soon. Then reinstall the retaining clip. Thats it, your turbing housing swap is now mainly complete.
Step 10, pic 14: Not mandatory, but I strongly reccomend threading in all your bolts into the new housing so you wont run into any problems while installing the turbo.
Have fun, and enjoy!
Pic 1: This shows the beginning product w/ the broken bolts.
Step 1, Pic 2: If you are internally gated like me, start by removing the clip that holds the wastgate actuator on, and then slide off the actuator arm like so.
Step 2, Pics 3 and 4: Start loosening and removing the 6 bolts that hold the turbo to the turbing housing. You will need a 13mm wrench. Some bolts will be hard to access so use the open end of the wrench to reach those.
Pic 5: Here is what a closeup of the clip and retainer setup will look like while on the turbo. Your going to have to spin the turbo a bit, while all bolts are loose, in order to remove all the bolts holding it on. You'll figure it out.
Pic 6: Here is the collection of parts you will take off and may need to be reusued if new hardware was not given to you. There is 2 half circle retainers, 3 retaining clips, and 6 bolts.
Step 3, pic 7: Once all the hardware is removed, simply pull the turbo itself out of its turbine housing. Be carefull, it does weigh a few pounds and it is possible to damage the turbine blades so take extra caution!
Step 4, pic 8: Gather your new turbine housing and visually inspect for anything wrong or that might spell trouble. The last thing you want is to put a bad housing on a good turbo.
Step 5, pic 9: Place the turbo back into its new housing, and again, being extra carefull to not hit anything or bend the blades while setting it into place. The turbo should sit flush w/ the housing, if it doesn't then take it back off, because there is a problem.
Step 6, pic 10: Start reinstalling all the hardware in the reverse order. Finger the bolts in, and spin the turbo again to get access to all the holes, making sure they all thread in properlly, and go finger tight on them once you have the turbo exactly where you want it.
Step 7, pic 11: Now tighten down the bolts using the 13mm wrench, going in a criss cross pattern to get even pressure accross the surface. Use the open end side to gain acces to the ones that are hard to reach.
Step 8, pic 12: Bullseye housings come w/ adjustable wastegate adjuster arms. If your internally gated, adjust this now, if needed and make sure you get proper clearance of the actuator arm not hitting the housing.
Step 9, pic 13: Re-install the wastegate actuator arm on the flapper and adjust it accordingly so it has firm pressure so it won't open too soon. Then reinstall the retaining clip. Thats it, your turbing housing swap is now mainly complete.
Step 10, pic 14: Not mandatory, but I strongly reccomend threading in all your bolts into the new housing so you wont run into any problems while installing the turbo.
Have fun, and enjoy!
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