How to lower intake/coolant temps?

[90-GST]

So im having problems with my Intake and Coolant temps. I have a GReddy 24v FMIC that I believe is blocking airflow to the engine and radiator, and causing the high temps. I previously did a few pulls on ECMLink and with the weather about 80* outside, my intake temps were around 136 and my coolant temps were peaking at 219. I have seen the CEL I have set at 221* coolant temp as well a few times since then.

Im wondering how to lower my intake and coolant temps for cheap. I checked to see if my coolant was full, and it was, as well as the overflow. I've heard that getting the radiator flushed, as well as a 30/70 coolant/water ratio with some water wetter lowers the temps a decent amount, but that is money that I dont have at the moment.

I have been thinking about "venting" the hood, and by this, I mean putting washers, or something along those lines, on the bolts that hold the hood on, so it is propped up by the windshield.


I'd also like to know how much of an increase in performance I can expect if I can get the IAT's to <100 and Coolant temps to <200.

 

[DSMTriad]

When it come to getting your temps down don't worry about performance. If you don't have money for a flush and 30/70 w/ water wetter. Then look for a 180 radiator cap, you can also remove the coolant line from the throttle body. Have an air dam made for the intake, and wrap the intake. Make sure you have the proper amount of space between the radiator and the front mount.

 

[viperlp01]

170 thermostat, new 13 psi rad cap, more water than antifreeze... moving the intake pipe away from heat, good heat shields on the manifolds, wrap your downpipe...

The cheater way- meth

 

[habitatguy187]

The cheater way- meth

Or e-85

 

[dsmfa9nutter]

A vent in the hood over the exhaust manifold will drop temps drastically. Go to walmart and buy a coolant system flushing kit, it's about $6 and it hooks to your hose. Drain your coolant, hook up the kit and flush your system for a good 10 minutes. Then fill it with straight water. Add a bottle of water wetter the next time you can afford it. Change back to a 50/50 coolant/water mix before the first freeze next fall. If you have access to filtered water, use that to fill your system, this will keep the impurities (rust/iron/chemicals) from building deposits in your system. Try not to go too long without adding water wetter, a week or two at the most.

 

[90-GST]

170 thermostat, new 13 psi rad cap, more water than antifreeze... moving the intake pipe away from heat, good heat shields on the manifolds, wrap your downpipe...

The cheater way- meth

Im going to try these. Thanks.

Or e-85

e-85 will be coming once I get new injectors, .

A vent in the hood over the exhaust manifold will drop temps drastically. Go to walmart and buy a coolant system flushing kit, it's about $6 and it hooks to your hose. Drain your coolant, hook up the kit and flush your system for a good 10 minutes. Then fill it with straight water. Add a bottle of water wetter the next time you can afford it. Change back to a 50/50 coolant/water mix before the first freeze next fall. If you have access to filtered water, use that to fill your system, this will keep the impurities (rust/iron/chemicals) from building deposits in your system. Try not to go too long without adding water wetter, a week or two at the most.

Thanks. Im going to try this very soon.

Also, I was speaking of lifting the hood by the windshield sort of like a cowl.

 

[byebyev8]

For intake temps make a cold air box. Its shown in the tech articles. You can also make a duct in the stock smic location to make cool air hit the intake, if you have short route piping.

 

[pboglio]

Do yourself a favor and wire up the fan to run continuously, or with a thermostatic control.
I did this and it dropped my temps from 216*F to 199*F. It's annoying to hear the fan run all the time, but my car needs it. For track duty, a 2nd fan is going in.

 

[DSM_Zak]

Magnus heat barrier intake manifold gasket.
More water than antifreeze, and water wetter
170 thermostate and 13psi radiator cap.
heat wrap exhaust manifold and downpipe, make sure they both have heat shields, the manifold and o2 housing.

Thats all I did and it did a HUGE difference, could barly touch the intake manifold when up to temperature, I can grab the thing and it's only luke warm now. with JUST the Magnus gasket

 

[Jafro]

...Thats all I did and it did a HUGE difference, could barly touch the intake manifold when up to temperature, I can grab the thing and it's only luke warm now. with JUST the Magnus gasket

Motherf! My manifold got here today. Heat barrier gasket was not in the box so I was signing in to search and see if they were really that big of a deal worth holding up my build any longer or worth paying another $42.50 brokerage fee for crossing the Canadian border. Looks like I don't have a choice after reading this. Not using the OEM gasket. Damnit, I'm so ready to put all my crap together.

If I have to pay brokerage fees, is there anywhere in the US that I can get this gasket?

 

[My1GLaser]

Also, I was speaking of lifting the hood by the windshield sort of like a cowl.

I just took out the rubber seal at the back of the firewall where the hood seals, but its not my DD and I rarely drive in the rain.

I also moved my air filter down into the pass side bumper where the stock smic is on a 1g. I left the air duct in place that channels air right into it, but once again I don't drive in the rain.

You can see in my sig that I cut out the bumper above the FMIC. Now some of the air goes over my FMIC and straight thru the rad and out the back of the 3/4" gap at the back of the hood. There is this mod for a 2g. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bol...yforest-bumper-mod-cooling-great-results.html

I also built ducting around my FMIC to make sure air goes straight thru the rad and doesn't bypass it. Not exactly like this, but its where I got the idea. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/245981-fmic-ducting.html

I have all the stock heat shields in place and a wrapped DP.


I have a 160* thermostat. I cruise at about 160-162* and sit in traffic at about 175.*

 

[booostedGSX]

Most of the big stuff has been covered. You could get some slim fans that flow more than factory and still have room to spare in the engine bay. You can also set them up as a pusher style setup, and have a whole boat load of room in the engine bay and cool more efficiently.

For the intake temps, the Greddy 24V isn't the most efficient IC. You could sell that thing and get a cheaper, and more efficient FMIC that would help with your intake temps.

Good luck with this, do it once, do it right.

 

[nytescion]

I have a 160* thermostat. I cruise at about 160-162* and sit in traffic at about 175.*

I thought without reaching 180 degrees the car won't run right.

 

[DSM1G90]

I thought without reaching 180 degrees the car won't run right.

No, it doesn't. What happens is that the temp sensor in the "waterbox" where the T-stat is located in, senses that the water isn't hot enough.

Then, it tells the ECU that the water temp isn't up to the required 195* level and the ECU then tells the injectors to shove in more fuel to heat up the block to get the temp up to this required degree setting that the ECU is programmed to remember.

Thus, running cooler than what your system requires, will make the system run rich all the time and your fuel economy will take a nosedive.

This is the reason why we have T-stats in our system along with the recommended changeout of T-stats on a maintanence basis since they'll either stick open (the usual case) or stick closed when they get of age.

Also, on the cooling fan issue: If you want to run your fans manually and you have the AC disconnected, or removed, push in the climate button the dash to first click and then turn on the fan switch to first click. This will run both fans continually while the key is on since this procedure closes both relays to each fan.

And, when you're crusin' the BLVD or on the road -anything over 30mph, then you can turn the switch off since the forward movement of the air is suffice to keep the system at the operating range.

I did a total system flush - including, block, radiator and heater core to rid of gunk and rust, shoved in 50/50 mix, new T-stat and a 13lb cap and no cooling issues is present with my car.

Good Luck, all ... -DSM

 

[habitatguy187]

If you have access to filtered water, use that to fill your system, this will keep the impurities (rust/iron/chemicals) from building deposits in your system.

Could you just use something like a Brita water filter for this?

Then, it tells the ECU that the water temp isn't up to the required 195* level

I think it's actually 182* to get the ecu out of open loop, but I couldn't find the source where I read that, thought it was vfaq but just looked and didn't see it.

 

[7"exhaust_tip]

You should just use distilled water. It is not like water is that expensive. Go to a grocery store. This is much better than using regular tap water (whether or not its "filtered").

 

[Locke]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/224201-how-i-lowered-my-coolant-temps-6-degrees.html

 

[My1GLaser]

No, it doesn't. What happens is that the temp sensor in the "waterbox" where the T-stat is located in, senses that the water isn't hot enough.

Then, it tells the ECU that the water temp isn't up to the required 195* level and the ECU then tells the injectors to shove in more fuel to heat up the block to get the temp up to this required degree setting that the ECU is programmed to remember.

Thus, running cooler than what your system requires, will make the system run rich all the time and your fuel economy will take a nosedive.

This is the reason why we have T-stats in our system along with the recommended changeout of T-stats on a maintanence basis since they'll either stick open (the usual case) or stick closed when they get of age.

We don't have to worry about all that with ECMLink. You just add 15-20* in the coolant offset and it takes care of the LTFT and other crap.

Use distilled water.

Also, I forgot that with a 2g the ECU controls the fans. I can't remember how to kick them on sooner with ECMLink, but I assume it is by using the coolant offset. Don't use too much offset. IIRC the ECU starts pulling timing above 206.* It's in the ECMLink wiki somewhere.

 

[90-GST]

Do yourself a favor and wire up the fan to run continuously, or with a thermostatic control.
I did this and it dropped my temps from 216*F to 199*F. It's annoying to hear the fan run all the time, but my car needs it. For track duty, a 2nd fan is going in.

I have the fan set to run constantly. I only have one fan though.

Magnus heat barrier intake manifold gasket.
More water than antifreeze, and water wetter
170 thermostate and 13psi radiator cap.
heat wrap exhaust manifold and downpipe, make sure they both have heat shields, the manifold and o2 housing.

Thats all I did and it did a HUGE difference, could barly touch the intake manifold when up to temperature, I can grab the thing and it's only luke warm now. with JUST the Magnus gasket

Where can I pick up the Magnus heat barrier intake manifold gasket? Or a 13psi radiator cap?

We don't have to worry about all that with ECMLink. You just add 15-20* in the coolant offset and it takes care of the LTFT and other crap.

Use distilled water.

Also, I forgot that with a 2g the ECU controls the fans. I can't remember how to kick them on sooner with ECMLink, but I assume it is by using the coolant offset. Don't use too much offset. IIRC the ECU starts pulling timing above 206.* It's in the ECMLink wiki somewhere.

With ECMLink on my 2g, you can just check a box and it leaves your fans on any time the key is in the on position. I've had that on since I bought the ECMLink program.




So far, my plan is to get the radiator flushed at a local shop a friend works at. Then throw in some distilled water and a bottle of water wetter(going to refill with 50/50 before the first freeze). After this is done, im going to try and see how much lower my temps are. If they arent to my liking, im going to heat wrap the manifold and downpipe, look into that heat barrier gasket, or some slim-line pusher fans. Next step is to look for a more efficient FMIC and sell mine to make up the difference.

Also, will lowering the coolant temps a good amount make the intake temps any lower? Im not able to make a cold air intake because I dont have short route piping either. And I cant find a good tutorial on the filter box, so Im not sure how hard it will be.