1G How Much for stock budget build when doing it myself?

[91Bomb]

I spun a rod bearing on my stock 7-bolt motor and need help figuring out how much a bottom end build would cost doing it myself? First off, I've been running 15 lbs boost on free/cheap mods and plan on keeping it that way. I already have a good spare block and all parts (except crankshaft) from 7-bolt N/T car I just parted out. My cylinder head seems good now but should I worry about metal from spun rod bearing causing a problem? (Bearing was still 95% or more intact). I do have a complete N/T cylinder head which compression tested excellent.

Basically how much is it to get block hot tanked and prepped properly for this stock build? What, if anything, should I do to cylinder head and how much for that? I would get my crankshaft (that jut spun a bearing) polished and ground, if necessary, and rods honed to match. I'd probably get stock 2g pistons for $150 on ebay and buy a clutch kit. Should I reuse head studs? I know I'd need a stock oem head gasket. Should I reuse the oil pump or better to get a new one? All my timing belts/accessories are 2 months old so that helps. Aside from misc gaskets, new exhaust mani studs, what else do I need?

How much am I looking at total for this stock build? I'm really on a tight budget and actually leaning towards parting the car out so please tell me I can do this for very reasonable cost. Thx!

 

[ThunderChild]

Tough to say. If you're having it machined with new parts, the machine work will prolly run 350-450 depending on what it needs. Problem arises because doing forged internals isn't much more expense if you're having the machine work done.

Hot-tanking the block and head shouldn't be more than 100 at most shops, especially if you disassemble it yourself. Surfacing a head is usually 30-60, blocks tend to run more.

If you check the specs on everything, you may be able to stone-hone and throw some new rings/bearings in. This is what I did with my 6 bolt and it runs very well, 165 (+/-2) psi on every cylinder, no burning oil and runs awesome. I even polished out the valve marks on the stock pistons.

Granted, not all setups are like that, but with good parts, the right tools and careful checking (and some luck with parts) you can get an engine back together for very little.

The oil pump I'd inspect and check tolerances. Make sure if you clean the block/head, get all the oil galleys with bottle/bore brushes and compressed air really well.

I don't see why you couldn't get the motor back in running shape for less that 6-700, as a guess. 1000 maybe on the higher side if the parts aren't trash. If you go fully rebult, expect closer to the 1500-2k range probably. check with the local machine shops and get some prices, GL!

 

[91Bomb]

Thx! I really have to mull it over and might just part the car out. Had it for 6-1/2 yrs and was amazed how good this stock FWD ran on free/cheap mods @ 15 lbs boost and how good the handling was with just a strut tower bar and 1 size wider tire. 213k mi now on orig motor, turbo + tranny with a full 24 years on the road

 

[ThunderChild]

Check things out yourself in a teardown before you decide to pass it on, it's a great learning experience and you may be able to fix it very cost effectively. Unless you've totally lost the love for it, I say give it a shot!

 

[pauleyman]

Your sig says 91 and you say 24 years and its a 7 bolt. You have no profile. What is it?

 

[Teezy]

I've got some evo 9 rods and pistons I can let go for 95 shipped. They need rings but are in good shape. Also, Oreilly sells this crankshaft kit complete with matching bearings - http://m.oreillyauto.com/h5/r/oap/s...=Search_02254_1316583_3955&pt=02254&ppt=C0364

 

[EvilGST]

Another thing you need to factor in is the price for buying the specialty tools required for engine building.

 

[91Bomb]

Thanks guys! Yeah I'd have to get an engine hoist + stand and try to find a good shop for machine work. Then I'd have to find someone to help check what the shop did and assemble shortbolock which would have to be wrestled up out of my basement.

If I knew in advance there would be zero problems after reinstalling everything I'd probably go for it. But it would devastate me if I did all that work and then had a major problem with the build. So it's a little intimidating at this point. Plus I'm not sure about putting the work in this car since all 4 wheels are dented, struts need replacing, body has slight damage in a couple spots, paint is fading, etc. Also was thinking since I could pull good money on a partout do that and look for a clean 2g or something.

Btw car is '93 Talon manufactured in Aug '92 and is my 3rd 1g DSM. My first 1g was '91 Talon seen in avatar.

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