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How many of you would run a SSAC intercooler with a holset HX35?

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ninesixtwo

15+ Year Contributor
85
1
Nov 7, 2007
Calgary, AB, Canada
would run a SSAC intercooler with a holset HX35? I've read through all the SSAC IC and holset threads and I can't decide if shelling out the extra couple hundred bones for the ETS 10.5" race kit would be worthwhile. I can live with not squeezing out every last ounce of power, but I do not like risking my motor over high AITs. Share your comments, thoughts please.
 
I'm sure you'd be fine. You could always thrown in a AIT sensor and see what the temps really are.
 
There was some testing done on these SSAC intercoolers and they were not very efficient in cooling intake temps as some of the other cores out there. initial air intake temps would increase 20+ degree's with these intercoolers compared to some other cores out there in which only a 5-10 degree increase was made.
 
Ive seen nothing but good things with these intercoolers (2 cars 1g and 2g). The ungodly long piping for a 1g sucks tho. If you can find it in the long ebay intercooler thread, there is a 1g with the 2g ssac setup (shortroute) on a 1g. Just a thought. As far as the cores go, they seem to be holding up very well.
 
That looks nice. Have you had any problems with pipes blowing off? What are you using for your throttle body elbow?
 
That looks nice. Have you had any problems with pipes blowing off? What are you using for your throttle body elbow?

Nope no pipes have blown off. And I use a ported out 2g TBE. I was wanting to swap it over to the NT throttle body and use a 45* coupler but didn't.
 
There was some testing done on these SSAC intercoolers and they were not very efficient in cooling intake temps as some of the other cores out there. initial air intake temps would increase 20+ degree's with these intercoolers compared to some other cores out there in which only a 5-10 degree increase was made.

I'd love to see some of these "tests" and on these actual cores, not some other ebay garbage floating around.

I've sold hundreds of these kits and I've never had one owner complain about heatsoak, knock or increased ambient temperatures. I've also personally made 400+ whp with this kit and I've personally SEEN people run 10's with this kit. If you're supposed "testing" can't disprove all of the things posted above then I'd keep it to yourself.

I'm all for numbers and facts, but I'm not down with the nonsense that gets thrown around because a friend's cousin read a half ass post on the internet and relayed that info as "testing".
 
I'd love to see some of these "tests" and on these actual cores, not some other ebay garbage floating around.

I've sold hundreds of these kits and I've never had one owner complain about heatsoak, knock or increased ambient temperatures. I've also personally made 400+ whp with this kit and I've personally SEEN people run 10's with this kit. If you're supposed "testing" can't disprove all of the things posted above then I'd keep it to yourself.

I'm all for numbers and facts, but I'm not down with the nonsense that gets thrown around because a friend's cousin read a half ass post on the internet and relayed that info as "testing".

The testing he's referring to was done by David Buschur, and it's probably the main reason I started this thread.
 
Granted I'm on a S16G but I have made pulls after pulls after pulls... and I get out of the car and touch the hot side to see where the heat ends and the cool begins and it's roughly 1/5th of the way through the other 4/5ths is ambient air temperature running on 22-25 psi. What I'm trying to figure out is how to keep my UICP cool to the touch also. Once it gets into the engine bay it warms up. I'm thinking heat wrap?
 
The testing he's referring to was done by David Buschur, and it's probably the main reason I started this thread.

I've read the multiple page thread on the Buschur forums with that same "testing" done but people make the mistake of assuming 1 ssauto kit is the same as all the others, especially when there are literally hundreds of manufactures overseas who make a very similar appearing product which people label as the "ssauto" or "ebay" kit.

I personally think that testing should be done by a third party that isn't biased. Buschur posting numerous results on kits he supposedly tested "fairly" isn't gonna do it for me when he's selling a product he's comparing.

I'm not saying he's a bad guy or isn't helping the community, but if I want a product tested, I'm not gonna get the guy who's profiting off the results to do the testing.
 
Granted I'm on a S16G but I have made pulls after pulls after pulls... and I get out of the car and touch the hot side to see where the heat ends and the cool begins and it's roughly 1/5th of the way through the other 4/5ths is ambient air temperature running on 22-25 psi. What I'm trying to figure out is how to keep my UICP cool to the touch also. Once it gets into the engine bay it warms up. I'm thinking heat wrap?

I'm gonna lay this out in simple jibber jabber so I can make my point as clear as it needs to be without getting too technical.

Even the heat wrap itself will eventually heatsoak and when that happens you're just going to apply heat to the wrong area.

Is the UICP aluminum or stainless steel/mild steel?

Stainless steel serves as a better heat barrier, but when it heat soaks SS takes much longer to dissipate the heat.

Aluminum is much better at dissipating heat, but it will heat soak quicker if there is nothing to transfer the heat. The intercooler has plenty of air flowing to it which allows the heat to be transfered from the intercooler but your upper intercooler pipe won't have any of the cool ambient air to cool it down, so it will rely on the air from the intercooler to affect it's temperature.

If you're engine bay temps greatly exceed the temps of the air flowing through the UICP, the aluminum pipe will get warm, but that doesn't necessarily mean the air flowing through the piping will be as warm as the exterior of the pipe.

In the end if you're drag racing I'd go with stainless steel piping and if you're road racing/tracking the car I'd go with aluminum. If it's a DD then aluminum will be the better choice to prevent heatsoak.
 
Shell out a few hundred extra and buy an intercooler that's proven. Going to CFM rating and don't buy that SSAutoChrome eBay crap. The core it probably shit.


If you really want to keep your UICP cool, grab some reflective gold wrap.

Pegasus - GOLD Reflective Heat Barrier Film

Truthfully that looks like generic tin foil. If you really want heat dissipation ceramic coat it and go with DEI wrapping.



Price always pays when it comes to performance stuff.
 
Yea DEI makes a similar "tin-foil" tape. Reflects heat up to 1500 degrees supposedly, I'll probably wrap my intake and pipes in that when I get a chance.
 
I have the 2g SSAC FMIC and have no complaints. I've never gotten it warm even half way across the core. The entrance pipe is too hot to hold your hand on and the core is cool already less than 1/3 of the way over. The passenger side end tank and pipe is cool.

I can't imagine spending 2-3 times as much. $280 with the piping is a steal.
 
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