How long will a crank walk engine last

[1kick]

So I ended up having to do another head gasket and I figured while I'm in there I would do bearings and rings at the time it was a good idea when I pulled the bearings they were badly worn the engine has 156k on i went with clevite bearings and wiseco rings had the crank worked on bearing clearences were a little on the tight side and with in spec honed the block everything looked great put it all back together and it started up perfect no wierd noises my oil pressure was back drove it normal for the first 800 miles then started getting on it a little at about 1400 miles I started to hear my tob starting to make noise along with a clicking coming from around the front crank I think the plate is hitting the crank sensor I never had these problems before did I do something wrong ? And how long do you guys think this rebuild will last I'm new to working on the 4g63 engine but have been working as a tech for 4 years

 

[K_81_K]

It would be impossible to say how long that will last
Sounds like something shifted
Was everything torqued appropriately?
Locktight on flywheel bolts?
Tightened in a star pattern in increments?
Does the sound go away if you press in the clutch?

 

[1kick]

Everything was torqued to spec it runs like it is new I did change the tob on Saturday it's odd I don't hear the noise from the crank all the time and it only makes the noise when the clutch is pressed in I have adjusted the clutch as I replaced that too I don't know how it has that much play because the bearings were replaced unless they wore that quick

 

[K_81_K]

Everything was torqued to spec it runs like it is new I did change the tob on Saturday it's odd I don't hear the noise from the crank all the time and it only makes the noise when the clutch is pressed in I have adjusted the clutch as I replaced that too I don't know how it has that much play because the bearings were replaced unless they wore that quick

So you only hear the noise when the clutch is engaged?
In neutral also?
What did you use for a clutch? What did you use for a tob?
Did you put locktight on the flywheel bolts?
Torque specs should have been 98ft lbs on flywheel and I think... 28 on pressure plate

 

[1kick]

Only while the clutch is engaged does not do it in neutral unless the clutch is pushed in had a crappy stage 3 from Amazon replaced it with a luk oe replacement and a oe pressure plate tob can't remember the brand got it from a parts store cost around 40$ made in Japan put lock tight on the flywheel bolts and torqued I may have gone a little loose on the pressure plate bolts alldata said 14 lbs

 

[K_81_K]

I could be mistaken on the pressure plate
Trying to remember I literally just put my act in last Saturday along with my sheptrans and for the life of me cannot remember the plate spec

One thing is for sure the TOB is very critical to be of oe quality if not oem in itself
Did you remember your Jesus clip on the tob?

 

[1kick]

Yes I did so when the clutch is engaged it pulls the crank to the trans side right and when the clutch is released in gear It pushes towards the no 1 cylinder

 

[K_81_K]

Pushes or “applies pressure”...
Yes it would apply force but not physically move the crank!

I honestly doubt you’re dealing with crankwalk here
Seems to me like something just isn’t sitting right!

 

[1kick]

Ok so something attached to the crank right

 

[K_81_K]

To be honest I’d be pulling that clutch again and going over everything from A-Z
You can check everything out at that point

Yes yes another 4 hours of time lost but lots of money saved if you find your problem before you cause any damage!

Plus it’s personal time you get to spend with her getting all touchy freely together

 

[1kick]

Your thinking the problem is not in the block man I hope it's not in the block I've put a lot of time and money into this car but I love it by far my favorite vehicle I've ever owned one other thing I ever been wondering what should my vacuum be at idle it's showing 11-. 12 at idle

 

[K_81_K]

22 vac

 

[Mello]

I will not use anything but an OEM TOB from Mitsubishi because they are made with a composite material for the inner sleeve. All the aftermarket TOB's I've seen use metal for the TOB inner sleeve which eats up the aluminum TOB guide sleeve for the tranny input shaft inside the bell housing. Crank walk is serious & should be addressed ASAP before too much of the thrust bearing is eaten away & you get metal to metal contact grinding on the crank & block journals. You should measure the crank shaft end play so you know for sure. This is easy to do even with the engine in the car. I unbolt the clutch slave cylinder so it is not preloading the pressure plate on the flywheel, use a magetic mount with dial indicator & gently push-pull the crank in & out. When the slave cylinder is loosened up it's pretty easy to move the crank to see if it's within the .003" to .007" spec & not exceeding the max limit of .0098". If it out of spec but hasn't gone to far you should just start over & replace the bearings and reassembly paying close attention to the 7-bolt girdle & mains & make sure they're all seated & aligned true & square. There are YouTube vidoes on how to do this & get the thrust bearing right without getting it misaligned & edges exposed that scrap the oil away from the bearing surfaces.

 

[motomattx]

Did you align the main bearings properly?

 

[1kick]

I'm not sure if they are misaligned gonna check how far the crank is moving tomorrow the tob does have a plastic sleeve the only thing I remember now is I forgot to torque the balance shaft the small belt drives so I'm also gonna pull the timing cover

 

[1kick]

So I checked the play on the crank I have crank walk I can hear and feel the crank hitting the thrust bearing there are copper shavings in the oil time to pull it apart again thanks for the replies

 

[motomattx]

Keep us posted.

 

[1kick]

Keep us posted.

I made a new post found here maybe you can help me out
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/rebuilding-a-crank-walk-engine-tips.522417/