How far should the slave cylinder rod extend to fully disengage the clutch???

[97GST6bolt]

I need to figure out if I need to get that 1/4 extended rod b/c I can't get my car in gear after the master and slave cylinder install. The only other thing I can think of is a bent fork (which I dont know HOW that would've happened driving like grandma!) or a flattened pressure plat (but the clutch is only 4 months old!)

I have about 3" of play in the pedal and I need to figure out why b/c I can't get my car into gear, and it sucks a$$ :thumbdown.

I can't afford to spend the $500 to take out the tranny and find out if its something internal, so let me know if you guys know how far the clutch fork should travel in order to fully disengage the clutch.

My car feels like it only needs just a little bit more to get in gear, and yes I've adjusted the master push rod all the way out and bled the system a million times.


thanks guys!!

 

[97GST6bolt]

If someone who has a 5spd could just measure the distance of slave cylinder pushing the fork (on the outside of the tranny) from the engaged position to the fully disengaged position.

Are we talkin like a 1", 1.5" or 2" throw between engaged to disengaged at the slave cylinder (pushing the clutch fork)??

It would help me out greatly guy because I just need to know If my slave rod is fully extending and that the fork might be bent, or that it still has more room to push the fork a little more and fully disengage the clutch.

I would greatly appreciate it guys! Thanks!!

 

[Turningturbo25]

Dude i am have problems that are very similar problems. My clutch will not disgage for anything. Tryed it all slave, master, master adjustments, and droped the trans to check out the shift fork

 

[97GST6bolt]

I need to know if bending the fork is possible with nearly a stock setup and an aftermarket clutch. Anyone know? I mean, how hard/easy is it to break a clutch fork? Or bend?

this sucks.. my car has left me stranded again (gee... that like 15 times already in one year!)

 

[97GST6bolt]

C'mon guys!! CAn someone just measure that distance for me?? I need to know so I can save myself the $$ of pulling the tranny.

 

[Sponge Bob]

I have not measured the distance for you but I can tell you the rod should push the fork until there is very little gab between it and the opening in the housing. But your problem is not there, I bet. You should not have 3” of pedal play. You should see the fork move even with less then one inch of pedal movement. You need to look at the MC and slave again, you just replaced them and I bet your problem lies in there. Bleed some more. How are you bleeding?

You also need to adjust the MC push rod back to where it was when the clutch disengaging properly. Once you get this sorted out that rod needs to go back in or you will create a bigger problem.

Bob

 

[97GST6bolt]

Well, I've replaced both slave and master cylinders... bled the system using a friend in the driver seat mashing the pedal over and over while I let out the air at the valve. I've had a shop even bleed it! Still, can't get it into gear.

Do any of you 2g owners have that 1/4 extension slave rod? I think I might need that for the fix... either that or I bent a clutch fork which i don't see possible.. or at least that easy when your just driving up your driveway... thats when I lost pedal pressure and replaced the slave and still can't get the car in gear.

 

[ldstang50]

not to insult your intelligence or your friends, but are you bleeding it properly?
you should have at most 1" of play in the clutch pedal.
to bleed the clutch or brakes, have someone pump the pedal about 10 times, on the 10th time he holds the pedal down as you open the bleeder. you open it for 3 sec or until the fluid (if any comes out). if none comes out then you just pressed air out of the system. you dont' want air in there. close the bleeder and tell him to lift off the pedal and start pumping again. DO NOT LET HIM LIFT OFF THE PEDAL WITH THE BLEEDER OPEN, YOU WILL SUCK AIR BACK INTO THE SYSTEM. Bleed the system until you have solid fluid coming out of the bleeder 3 consecutive times. Be sure every so often you are checking the master cylinder to make sure fluid is in it, if you run it down to almost empty you will suck air in through the top.
you already stated you replaced the master cylinder and slave cylinder. my buddy and i just replaced his clutch with an ACT 2600 and lightened flywheel. his car wont' go in gear. we are replacing the slave cylinder this weekend. we will let you know what happens.
With what you have already done I would think about getting a clutch rod extender. That will definetly eliminate your play and allow you adjust as to when your clutch grabs.

 

[97GST6bolt]

Well, I've bled clutch systems and brake systems.... and I know enough to do such an easy task. I bleed the system EXACTLY as you stated, except I have him only pump the pedal like 3 times... which has always been good enough. I've bled this system numorous times and this time it just seems like no matter how much I bleed it, it stays the same. Everytime I bleed it, nothing but fluid comes out of the bleeder... not air, no bubbles.. just solid fluid. SO I KNOW There's no air in the lines...

I got the extender rod on the way... I hope taboo sends it soon!! There not responding to me emails

I just don't know why I need that rod, when I've never needed it before (performance clutch has been on for over 3 months!!).. and if anything all the NEW parts (slave, master, clutch, TOB, and pressure plate) should have made this sh|t work already!!!

 

[Sponge Bob]

I just don't know why I need that rod, when I've never needed it before (

You don't need the rod, the rod is a band aid fix to a hydraulic problem. Do you still have 3" inches of pedal free play?

Bob

 

[dave99gst]

back the cruise switch all the way out ?
http://teamrip.com/clutch adjustment.html

 

[ldstang50]

not to insult your intelligence or your friends, but are you bleeding it properly?
you should have at most 1" of play in the clutch pedal.
to bleed the clutch or brakes, have someone pump the pedal about 10 times, on the 10th time he holds the pedal down as you open the bleeder. you open it for 3 sec or until the fluid (if any comes out). if none comes out then you just pressed air out of the system. you dont' want air in there. close the bleeder and tell him to lift off the pedal and start pumping again. DO NOT LET HIM LIFT OFF THE PEDAL WITH THE BLEEDER OPEN, YOU WILL SUCK AIR BACK INTO THE SYSTEM. Bleed the system until you have solid fluid coming out of the bleeder 3 consecutive times. Be sure every so often you are checking the master cylinder to make sure fluid is in it, if you run it down to almost empty you will suck air in through the top.
you already stated you replaced the master cylinder and slave cylinder. my buddy and i just replaced his clutch with an ACT 2600 and lightened flywheel. his car wont' go in gear. we are replacing the slave cylinder this weekend. we will let you know what happens.
With what you have already done I would think about getting a clutch rod extender. That will definetly eliminate your play and allow you adjust as to when your clutch grabs.

the slave cylinder eliminated this problem

 

[97GST6bolt]

Still have play in the pedal... it's squishy... and also when I push the clutch in, I hear a loud squeeking/creeking noise from the tranny. Anyone know what that means??? Never had it before but I do now. I ordered this clutch from importlifestyle.com and had it put in over 3 months ago with no problems up until now. Anyone got a clutch from them before??

im pissed!

damn car won't go in gear!!!!!

 

[97GST6bolt]

oh.. and I had to order the slave rod from dsmparts.com since taboospeedshop.com is fully of dipshit assholes who don't give 2 shits about their customers. The dumbass never responded to my purchase so I had to get a refund from paypal! :thumbdown