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How do these timing marks look to you?

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FASTSPOOLINGST

15+ Year Contributor
598
0
Sep 17, 2003
Elizabethtown, Kentucky
Just installed my timing belt. Want to know if these timing marks are acceptable so it will start and not bend valves. Looks o.k., maybe the intake is off a tooth, but i'm not sure if this is the norm.
 

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Take a straight edge and lay it from left to right across all 4 timing marks and make sure they all line up. Don't just look at the center ones.
 
It looks like it won't be right. Get that straightedge on there.

Also, all 4 marks should line up with the seam between the valve cover and the head.
 
:thumb: Glad to give ya that little trick.

KPT good idea but i always double check with a straight edge...eyeballing can get you in trouble and that seam is like 3 inches away.

I use to think i was the only person who used zip ties for this :D
 
3" away? That's only because he has the cover back on ... check it with a straightedge and then check the crank pulley as well to make sure you got that right. Spin the crank a few times and then recheck.
 
thats not right there. from the pic it looks like you need to move them one tooth more together plain and simple.
 
Originally posted by crankbender
:thumb: Glad to give ya that little trick.

KPT good idea but i always double check with a straight edge...eyeballing can get you in trouble and that seam is like 3 inches away.

I use to think i was the only person who used zip ties for this :D

I agree. I'm so anal, that I not only use a straightedge, but I make sure that the straight edge lines up with the top of the head too. Of course, if the marks line up, it has to, but whatever.:D
 
exhaust cam is retarded one tooth, right?
 
yeah, its really not something you can see in the picture so well. It may be that its just becase the cams pull and so its not quite at tdc, but the marks can be fine. you really just have to check it with a strait edge.

On the other hand, If you move it a tooth in either direction from being correct, it will be totally off. I don't really see how it could be messed up.

I did mine and was worried like hell, then the car started and ran fine and i figured...hey...i followed the damn directions why was i so worried
 
Here is where i am at now with the marks. How's this lookin' guys

I took a straight edge when i had the belt off and tried to line up all four marks. If the are all four lined up, the inside marks are not at their closest spot and they are not on the correct plane with the head. The outer marks are a tiny bit above the inner ones with the inner ones at their closest point together as in the picture.
 

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I also turned the motor over 6 times like it said in VFAQ and re-checked the marks and the oil sprocket, crank, and the cams are all on their marks.

I will take a pic in a little bit when my friend comes of me holding a straight edge up to it so u can see the inside and outside marks.

Thanks guys, I hope to have this beast up and running by the end of this week if a certain vendor would ever give me my parts or give me my money back.
 
I talked to a friend of mine and he told me to put a small screwdriver in the teeth at the marks and it should point right at the head/valve cover meeting. I did so and it does, it is exactly on the crack where the valve cover meets the head.
 
to hold the belt on the teeth with tension while you put the belt on the rest of the motor. You have to line the marks perfect and it requires that you put a little tension on the cam gears and if you didn't do it, the belt would keep popping off. You can use clips or whatever, but the zip ties worked great for me. Just had to keep cutting the exhaust tie and changing the teeth position to get it right.
 
straight edge!

another helpful tip, you have to make sure the oil pump is in time just as much as the crank/cams. the first time I put mine back together it wasn't building any oil pressure. I had to take the belt back off and this time I made sure all 4 were perfectly aligned.. and it builds great oil pressure now. Don't know why but it has to be aligned.


when your putting it on pull the slack out on the back side of the motor so that when you crank down on the tensioner it doesn;t move the gears.

AND to get the tensioner pulley over good I made a F looking tool out of 2 small allen wrenches it works great the belt is tight. you should be able to easily slide the tensioner pin in and out after getting the pulley done right.

instead of zip ties use some small spring loaded wood clamps. they hold just as good and are easier to take off
 
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