The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Holy thick oily exhaust clouds batman!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

zero97tsi

15+ Year Contributor
493
0
May 30, 2007
Duluth, Minnesota
Well, as the marathon of new DSM breakage moves forward we are now to another big WTF is wrong now part.

I now get massive amounts of thick (read: cannot see through it at all, oil field fire thick) smoke billowing out of my tailpipe. and it smell like REALLY burnt oil and something else. Its not blueish it grayish with a tiny itty bitty hint of blue.

Found out yesterday it is in the crankcase as well, I took off the valve cover and the smoke rolled out of it and I could see it creeping out of the oil return shoots and after it was clear I could see it rolling around down there.

compression is 170, 170, 165, 170 so Im not thinking it has to do with that.

however the turbo only spools half way now, I wonder if thats just because there is a cloud of filth hindering combustion?

Im going to switch out the oil in it and see if that does it. I MAY have gotten gas in it when I was doing the pointless head gasket switcheroo.

*DUMB QUESTION*: Would gas in the oil make it do this?

Yes, its a stupid question but I just want to cool my mind with someone else telling me.

and my oil is disapearing so... yea... its gotta go somewhere and its not on the ground.

:talon: :barf:
 
Well... I can rotate the shaft around, the only thing stoping it is the walls of the turbo.... is that a bad thing? ...kidding...

Any who. can that be fixed or do I have to buy a new one?
 
Also, what does shaft play have to do with insane amounts of thick clouds coming out of my exhaust? does it leak through the bearings or something?
 
Check your lower intercooler pipe and intake pipe etc for oil. Could be a blown turbo seal which would cause it smoke pretty badly. See any oil on any of the turbo oil lines or anything?
 
Yea, theres oil in the lines. In fact when I took the turbo off I went to bring it inside and oil poured out of the lower pipe. Well, not POURED, about 3/4 cup came out.

And like I can move the shaft around in a circle ALOT, its completely mobile, I can roll it around on the outside wall of the intake part of the turbo.

Is this fixable? Can Is new turbo my only option?
 
Yeah sounds like your turbo is done for! Is this a stock t25 turbo? They are fairly cheap to replace. Or this could be a good excuse to upgrade to something a little bigger. But from the oil being in your lower intercooler pipe and excessive shaft play, it seems that your turbo is blown. cheap option if you still are on your stock t25 is to upgrade to a 14b turbo from the 1g's. You will need to buy an install kit or make one, but that turbo won't crap out after 5k like the t25 does. If you have already upgraded your turbo prior to this than never mind.
 
+1 for the 14b swap. i got mine for 45 dollars and installed it for less than 60.
 
sounds like 14b is the way to go, and seems like I can find them cheep.

What do I need to fit the 14b to the car? Its stock setup right now.

Also, how much power is the 14b good for?
 
sounds like 14b is the way to go, and seems like I can find them cheep.

What do I need to fit the 14b to the car? Its stock setup right now.

Also, how much power is the 14b good for?

You would need a 2g install kit. The kits are a little bit of money, but the benefit is once you install the 14b if you ever want to upgrade to say a 16g turbo it will be direct bolt on. I believe the 14b should be good for around 300 hp. Fuel support and other supporting mods would be required for this to be possible however.

Here is the 2g install kit. http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=17009&cat=336&page=1

To be able to really turn the boost up and get the full potential of the 14b you will need, boost gauge and manual boost controller, new injectors(550cc, could go bigger so don't have to upgrade again) fuel pump walbro 190 will be plenty(good for 400whp) You will also need a way to control the fuel. Apexi afc or dsmlink something along those lines. Once you start getting more flow with a new turbo you will need to get an exhaust to get the added air out quicker. The stock intercooler will also be near it's max if not maxed out and start heat soaking.
Take a look at the upgrade path if you haven't already. Definitely helped me out a lot.
 
All I really want to do is give the car more street manners for now. Im too new to this to reallly dive in. I want to learn more about the car and get more aquanted to the engines before I start to go for the glory. Im thinking after I get this 14b in, Ill get a new exhaust manifold and turbo back exhaust setup and leave at that until I feel like Im ready to move forward.

Im really interested in handling right now. The first thing I really loved about this car is the grip. Its like driving a fricken go-kart.
 
I can personally vouch for a 14b upgrade. It's a very street-friendly turbo, quick-spooling, faster at half the boost than the T25, and can be bought and installed for very cheaply.

My T25 blew in exactly the same fashion as you describe: whitish/gray smoke screens, lots of shaft play, oil in the LICP, and boost that kept lowering on a daily basis until it would not boost at all.

Change the turbo ASAP. The more play you get, the more the compressor wheel fins are likely to break off and find there way into your engine. You don't want that happening. If you can't find a 14b around, I've noticed the prices of 16g's are constantly being lowered. You may even have better luck getting a new 16g instead of a used 14b. The install for both is the same, and as everyone knows, the 16g is probably one of the top rated street turbos in use today.
 
Also, I wouldn't upgrade the exhaust manifold before getting other upgrades. It will be alot of work for no more response or peak performance. Usually, guys upgrading to 400 hp capable setups upgrade the exhaust mani last!

Get a logger. Tunerstein logging software is free. You just have to come up w/ a cable for cheap and pda or laptop. Get a boost gauge and get a manual boost contoller from ebay to go along w/ your 14b swap. Both super cheap. The 14b compressor can flow enough for over 320 hp. You won't magically get that hp buy swapping in a stock 14b, but you'll ahve an efficient turbo that doesn't mind 15-18 psi.

Definately, get a fuel pump when you decide to 'dive in' and simply turn up the boost :) . Along w/ a logger these should be the first purchases in the upgrade path.

You have a MAF that can meter over 500hp worth of airflow. When you want more, look at engine management that allows you to keep the 2g maf employed.

When you get to the point where your 14b can't give you more power. Grab a 7 cm^2 turbine housing for $50 shipped. This is good for 400 hp w/ the 14b turbine wheel. You'll be capable of getting to the limit of the 14b compressor (350 or so hp).
 
All I really want to do is give the car more street manners for now. I'm too new to this to really dive in. I want to learn more about the car and get more aquanted to the engines before I start to go for the glory. I'm thinking after I get this 14b in, Ill get a new exhaust manifold and turbo back exhaust setup and leave at that until I feel like I'm ready to move forward.

I'm really interested in handling right now. The first thing I really loved about this car is the grip. Its like driving a fricken go-kart.


The stock 2g exhaust manifold is really plenty good for anything the 14b will throw at it. If anything just maybe port it out a little bit. Exhaust is always a good option. If your going to turn the boost up make sure you get a boost gauge if you don't have one already.

Good idea with learning more about the car before go all out crazy with it. Also getting all maintenance done first is very crucial to having a lasting dsm.
Would be a good idea to check around for the 16g if you don't mind spending a few bucks more as that will give you something to really grow into. But the 14b will provide you some very nice gains over the t25. And once you decide(if you do) to get some fuel upgrades, will be able to give you a very good amount of power.
I would say though definitely save your money instead of buying that upgraded exhaust manifold for now unless you have a badly cracked one that is.


Damn beat me to the exhaust manifold statement. Gotta work on my typing speed I guess.
 
I already picked up a 14b in the classifieds here so I should be getting that pretty soon here.

Ive noted the comments about the manifold, Ill keep that for last when I for some reason have some money to burn.

Does the oil feed line in that swap kit go from oil cooler to turbo or lower hard line to turbo, cause Honestly... I dont think that bi*** is going to spin. In fact I PB Blaster'd it 5 times and work on it for a day before I got pissed and snipped the line right at the turbo. So long story short It'd be nice to have a new line from oil cooler to turbo.

For safety resons (safety for engine, not for me) the stock boost controller will hook up to the 14b and keep it at stock ranges correct?

Thank for the tons of help and hand holding here. I'd have sold my realistically affordable dream car by now without the help.

:talon: :thumb:

:tease:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
zero; take a look at this thread I just started on: 14b in a 2G I added a link in that thread about an oil line I found on eBay for $48 shipped, you just tell the guy what fitting you need (I used the factory oil filter housing to the 14B turbo, he gave me the fittings plus the copper washer). It went alright, you just use the front coolant line from the T25 and keep the stock one off the 14B on the rear. You will need the 1G drain pipe, or modify the 2G one. Look on VFAQ, that is where I followed it step by step. It wasn't bad, just little shit that kept adding up and sending me to NAPA every time I turned around.
 
So really all I need to do is switch the housings so I have somewhere to put my o2 sensor, get an oil feed line and thats about it other than gaskets and what not?

If I get that kit will it include EVERYTHING I need? That may be the easier as far as all this goes, Im not too concerned with the price. more concerned with ease of installation at the time.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top