holset hx35, what is needed

[my4ATEurV8]

ive got a 2g turbo awd 5 speed 4g63t
im picking up a good condition holset hx35 turbo.
what exactly do i need to make this thing functional in my car?
ive done some searching and found somthing about a bullseye housing, but im adhd without the rids, so i cant remember or pay atention to $#@!.
so i was wondering if somone can give it to me in short dummy terms a list of what i need to hook this beast up? thanx guys.
links as well

 

[90laserRSfwd]

There are variations of the HX35. Besides a clutch, shocks, and exhaust are no where near enough supporting mods for that much compressor wheel unless your profile isn't up to date.....

 

[my4ATEurV8]

my bad. i am in the process of upgrading my fuel system, and doing a 1g head cyclone manie and t-body swap to my 2g block in the afternoon tomorrow. and dsm link in a week or so.

 

[my4ATEurV8]

ive been wanting a bigger turbo and i managed to pick this one up for a hundred bucks

 

[90laserRSfwd]

ok, I wasn't trying to be a dick (not sure if you took it that way or not) but I didn't want you to think that could just bolt on an HX35 and go for broke. What injectors are you getting? Basicly the idea is that you buy (or locate) a bolt on turbine housing (may have to have it machined to fit the turbine wheel depends on your specific turbo) and hook up and oil feed / drain, recirculate the coolant lines, exhaust, intake setup, etc. It's not as hard as it seems.

 

[my4ATEurV8]

750 ijectors, 255 walbro greddy fuel pressur regulator

 

[1gDSM4g63]

Going bigger is not going to do anything except cause disaster when you push it too far. They are more things you need when going to a bigger turbo. You need a fuel system upgrade, a DSMLink or SAFC, FMIC, cams and other internals will help, etc... I suggest you stay with the stock turbo or what you have now and do other upgrades than go to the HX35.

 

[my4ATEurV8]

please dont take this the wrong way, are you familiar with holset turbos?

 

[my4ATEurV8]

is it cool if i pm you my cell number. talking is a lot faster than typing.... and my laptop will be dead in about 10-15 minutes and my bro took my charger for the day

 

[darkhorizon]

I would go with a custom T3 manifold, get the downpipe flange off ebay, and hope for the best.

Also, your going to want more RPM's as you will be spooling later, so head work would be nice.

I also dont think stock bottom ends line holding down 10 second type power you will see with the HX35.

 

[my4ATEurV8]

as far a the motor goes. i will be pulling it out in the winter and using it for a core exchange for a fully built race long block. so im not to worried..( not trying to sound cocky). and good dyno time will be a must!!!
im just trying to figure out where tho get the long block from. any suggestions???????
and give reasons if any.

 

[darkhorizon]

Might want to consider building a block yourself? You dont have to be that mechanically inclined to rebuild a block yourself if your interested in it and have some help VIA a machine shop. Any machine shop in your town also can do a very good job rebuilding it, assuming you want to run a stock head.

Strokers, fancy heads, and more experimental engine parts, would be best left to a DSM only shop.

 

[dsm-onster]

There are no turbine variations of the hx35. There are 3 compressor wheels and they all flow the same. There's only one turbine wheel for the hx35. So there's no need to worry about machining the turbine housing. The bolton housing is bolton for the manifold and for the turbo. The turbine housing will bolt on to an h1c holset, as well.

The hx35 has slightly more flow than the 50-trim with that faster spool. I suggest 750s, walbro 255, and dsmlink; which you say you will get. You'll need a FMIC and a very good clutch. Port your stock 2g manifold for the bolt on housing or run an evo3 manifold. . . I do not think 750s are worth it since 1000cc injectors are marginally more expensive and idle and drive just as well, with dsmlink.

Also a set of 272 style cams (hks, fp, BC) would do you well for this turbo. It is going to like the flow they will give. The holset can deliver high boost and remain VERY efficient, more so than the 20g or 50-trim. But pump gas still can't tolerate the heat from high boost, efficient compressor or not. Since any decent FMIC will bring temps down to about the same as any other turbo, the advantage is the efficiency of the compressor. It doesn't need as much energy from the turbine to maintain boost, thus more exhaust gases are shunted and you're running more flow for the same boost. But a good set of cams can give it even more flow with out having to run higher boost numbers. This will greatly help in a pumpgas goal.

 

[my4ATEurV8]

ive got a son to take care of, so ide rather just buy a long block and save the time. if i just rebuilt everything that needed to be, then i wouldnt have any time for my son.
so if there are any suggestions as to wich company to go with for the motor, that would be much apreciated. im going for a round 600 whp daily driver......... ya i know im insane but thats my goal
plus there is also anawd dyno for all the tuning about 10 minutes from my house.
this is there website address for the dyno... www.doneriteautomotive.com

 

[Sarge32]

dsm-onster

With looking at the different exhaust housings you can get for the Hx-35 /40, I believe the divided T3 style would be better. I know you can get divided headers for the t3, but I would rather run a cast divided manifold for durability on the street. Would I see much of a loss going with Mitsu hsg with cast manifold over a T3 with cast manifold. Thanks

 

[dsm-onster]

Well, the bolton housing and the stock exhaust manifold has gone LOW 11s at 126mph with a sluggish 60ft. This is around 500whp. The housing had dynoed 494 whp with the hx35 wheels. It spools to 20+ psi before 3500rpms. The stock holset housing with an open header design (non-divided) will spool much later, like 20 psi by 4K or so as shown by a few.

No one knows what a divided manifold and stock holset housing will do with an hx35. But considering how small the individual scrolls are fo the stock 12cm^2 hx35 housing, I would gather the spool would be VERY quick and the top end would be about like the bolton housing. The 18.5cm^2 h1c housing and 19cm^2 h1e / hx40 housings have volute areas that are about the size of the .63 a/r garrett housing. Since exhaust flows is pulsed, the size of the individual volutes is what's important, not the overal size (12cm^2, 16cm^2, 19cm^2, etc). A good thing about a true divided setup is being able to run more overlap for topend power instead of running alot of total cam retard to do the same thing. This makes the power band broader instead of just shifting it up. Cylinder filling is better with a true divided setup, too. So overall VE goes up significantly through out the rpm range. Especially when you begin to really push your turbo (high back pressure).

 

[Sarge32]

dsm-onster

Thanks, I like your good technical answers. The Holset seems a good way to go. I have more reading to do on the BW S200 and 300 series before I decide. I want the best possible setup I can for pump and pos meth. Thanks again