2G Highway cruising stallout..

[mitsumike0]

So yesterday in the dsm, I'm cruising down the highway and I feel a little thump. The thump then proceeded with the engine nearly stalling while going 60 mph, no biggie I pull over and turn off the car. I check for any holes in the block, we are good. So I try to turn the car on again and it starts up, but rpms stay very low and dies out again. It almost sounds like a misfire. So I check the basics: fuses are good, timing belt is good, Fpr shows pressure, maf still plugged in. I try turning the car on a few more times and the battery doesn't have enough juice to start anymore. I call the tow truck.

This morning I go outside with my booster just to see what the car does. It starts up and doesn't sound healthy. About 20 seconds later the rpms kick up and the car sounds normal and idles completely fine. I turn the car off/ on and everything starts up fine and idles fine. Dsmlink shows strong battery voltage. Only thing I have done recently was replace the fuel filter but that was last week. I have driven the car several times between now and then. Anyone have any ideas on what to check?

Injectors maybe have like 3k miles on gasoline only. Alternator was replaced last year, battery is 2.5 years old. Ill run a BLT and see what i find as well

 

[miliman13]

For it to occur on the highway it could be a number of things.
But personal experience hints to a crank sensor.
( on a different vic)

It wasnt constant, just came and went.

Do you feed 2X or 1X timing signals to the ECU >?

 

[Patchez_]

i say its possible to have some corrosion in a wire harness or in a cable to the battery. the filter is in the area of the battery might have moved something and was not noticeable at first but hit a pot hole and boom bad day. not having proper current to electrical components looks allot like what you are up against.

 

[Brando_DSM]

if your battery was drained it wasn't being charged by your alternator... would also check your grounds

 

[Vic321]

Sounds like corrosion or a short in your wiring. You should log with dsmlink and see if you can see a sensor giving you a bad or inconsistent reading. Hope that helps. Chasing gremlins can be a pain. Good luck.

 

[Wahine81]

So yesterday in the dsm, I'm cruising down the highway and I feel a little thump. The thump then proceeded with the engine nearly stalling while going 60 mph, no biggie I pull over and turn off the car. I check for any holes in the block, we are good. So I try to turn the car on again and it starts up, but rpms stay very low and dies out again. It almost sounds like a misfire. So I check the basics: fuses are good, timing belt is good, Fpr shows pressure, maf still plugged in. I try turning the car on a few more times and the battery doesn't have enough juice to start anymore. I call the tow truck.

This morning I go outside with my booster just to see what the car does. It starts up and doesn't sound healthy. About 20 seconds later the rpms kick up and the car sounds normal and idles completely fine. I turn the car off/ on and everything starts up fine and idles fine. Dsmlink shows strong battery voltage. Only thing I have done recently was replace the fuel filter but that was last week. I have driven the car several times between now and then. Anyone have any ideas on what to check?

Injectors maybe have like 3k miles on gasoline only. Alternator was replaced last year, battery is 2.5 years old. Ill run a BLT and see what i find as well

 

[Wahine81]

Have u used any Fuel treatment additives yet, like Lucas Upper cylinders cleaner? So long as u refrain from smog tests when it's in your gas tank, (we found out it threw the readings off.) Had to come back later in the week after using it all. Lucas makes a lot of great products, the one I am talking about even boosts the octane on your fuel a couple points so u get better mileage. Have u checked the throttle under the hood. I had a similar prob a year ago, turns out it was just some of the plastic casing around the wires and the tubes for fluids. The casing had split about 3 inches down & clean in half, it had become lodged underneath when I accelerated toward the freeway on-ramp, it got stuck as the trottle tried to snap back down the throttle so it refused to go below 2k rpm at a red lite. I was so freaked out I turned around & brought BB home for D to look at. Be figured it out in 5 minutes, but my trepidation kept me from accelerating high enough to possibly dislodge it as opposed to going back home.Thank God. As things get older: rubber, plastic, chrome trim, etc., U just gotta try to stay on top of it. Could be a simple loose wire on your battery to the fuel pump, could be a crossed-wire type short-circuit anywhere. No matter what u find I still recommend Lucas products, Royal Purple engine oil & Marvel Mystery Oil in the oil change. It matters I can assure u, u get what u pay for. DSM deserve the best we can Acquire; especially the higher the odometer goes. My much older bro swears everything starts to break a bit at a time after 30 years, so beware that landmark & great luck!

 

[curt-s]

Check connectors to power transistor unit, coil, cas, cps (if applicable) for partially broken or corroded contacts.

My PTU was giving me grief from initially broken contacts and then much later, after a relocation to another spot in the bay, apparently poor grounding of the unit through its mounting bracket. Random periodic cutout, engine dies, etc.

 

[mitsumike0]

Update to the problem. So ever since, the car drove fine until this morning when I was cruising on the same highway . The car again sputtered and had no power and It of course died again. However this time I managed to keep it idling for a little while. The car started smoking and when I look under the car, my cat was red hot. Which makes me believe that either the cat is clogged or raw fuel is reaching the cat. I feel like it's either the power transistor, coil pack, plugs or the cat itself. The cat isn't very old either, maybe a year old with 5k miles on it