higher coolant temps after new Aluminum rad + 1.1 rad cap

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Before my oem rad (top) neck broke I was seeing temps of around 199F / 93C with the OEM rad cap,

Now I've changed to a Mishimoto rad and HKS 1.1 psi rad cap temp is going to 210F / 99C thats the highest im getting. fans seem to kick in later then normal, it use to kick in about 199F now its not kicking in till at least 210F ish? now I have oem fans and there both wired up to come on at the same time as I no longer have AC so I have no condenser radiator , cruising is about 192F and ive not pushed the car yet so I don't know them temps just yet!

So could the issue of running the 1.1 psi rad be making my temps rise a little more then normal? as is 210F anything to worry about, my mix is as close to 70% water and 30% coolant as I could get it,



while on the subject of rad caps, I cant find an answer to this question!!! I know they create more pressure but will that pressure aid in a head gasket failure? I just want to know as if it does then it will be replaced with the OEM rad cap again

 

[007jimmy]

If the 210 temp is at idle only and not cruising, you should be fine. An aluminum radiator isnt much help when there is no air passing through it untill moving or when the fans kick on. As for the rad cap, actually the 1.1 bar cap is a supposed upgrade for our cars and even comes stock on the evo 8/9. The higher pressure increases the boiling point of coolant/water and helps the cylinder head transfer heat better. The only downside is that higher pressure puts more stress on the water pump and seals. I wouldnt stress on that fact though. Ducting and proper heat shielding will do wonders for you.

 

['97boostinGST]

210*F is what I see on average while city driving (Stop and Go's) with OEM fans wired like factory.
While in the highway for a long period of time, it will sit at about 180*F.
I have a Mishimoto 3-row radiator and OEM cap.
I used ECMLink and the fans don't kick on until 210*F or 213*F one of those two.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

If the 210 temp is at idle only and not cruising, you should be fine. An aluminum radiator isnt much help when there is no air passing through it untill moving or when the fans kick on. As for the rad cap, actually the 1.1 bar cap is a supposed upgrade for our cars and even comes stock on the evo 8/9. The higher pressure increases the boiling point of coolant/water and helps the cylinder head transfer heat better. The only downside is that higher pressure puts more stress on the water pump and seals. I wouldnt stress on that fact though. Ducting and proper heat shielding will do wonders for you.

ive read a ton of threads on this and i know it does the higher boiling etc but will it make my head gasket blow sooner then an oem rad cap from the extra pressure its seeing?

im going to make a top air duct like the other cars can run and hopefully help with a bit more flow to the rad

 

[007jimmy]

No. As long as your coolant system is up to par and you have a proper tune your headgasket should be fine. Still on stock head studs?

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

ive just spent alot of money on maintenance items so the whole car should be good, the head gasket has never been changed though! thats my only worry with higher pressures,