High Idle, then it goes down.

[Lofty]

Alright, question time.
I do not have my manual, I lost it.
Is it normal to have my idle at 2grand, until my car is at NOT?
As soon as the temp gauge clicks onto the "Normal" bar, the idle goes down to 750.

 

[habitatguy187]

Depends on how cold it is. My old 90NT would sometimes idle higher than that before it got warm. As long as it's returning to 750 you're ok..... I wouldn't worry unless it idled over 3 grand.

 

[Lofty]

Depends on how cold it is. My old 90NT would sometimes idle higher than that before it got warm. As long as it's returning to 750 you're ok..... I wouldn't worry unless it idled over 3 grand.

Well I'm just curious, because I'm driving around at 2grand until my engine warms up.

 

[hubz91talontsi]

...its an import with an electronic choke. Every perons car on this fourm does this unless you have a drag car and remove it.

 

[habitatguy187]

Well I'm just curious, because I'm driving around at 2grand until my engine warms up.

Try to let your car warm up a little. Even 60 seconds will be better than nothing.

 

[Lofty]

...its an import with an electronic choke. Every perons car on this fourm does this unless you have a drag car and remove it.

Oh, my apologies for not knowing that..




.....Thanks..

 

[hubz91talontsi]

Put an a/f gauge in it. When your a/f starts dancing its time to pull away. Will save you a ton of gas.

 

[Lofty]

Put an a/f gauge in it. When your a/f starts dancing its time to pull away. Will save you a ton of gas.

Is it really worth it on an NT?

 

[hubz91talontsi]

Ill sell you one for 15 dollars...
When you start driving while you car is warming up its pegged on rich fuel trims because its trying to warm itself up. Thats whole point of it revving so high when you start it.
My brother has a n/a dodge stealth and a TT has one in both.

 

[MichaelSuch]

As soon as my car starts up it revs to almost 2.5k instantly and slowly drops. I think it's normal. It's only 38 Degrees right now but it's sure a cold 38 (not sure how much wind chill)... Yesterday when I started it up it didn't idle like that but then again it was in the 50's. I think you're fine.

 

[hubz91talontsi]

Let me re-explain. The temp is some-what a factor. Have you noticed when you start the car it rev's quickly.. hot or cold? Its an electronic choke it doesn't know any better. It's just perparing itself incase it is cold. Believe me its better then a manual choke. My father has on in his v8 vega. Big pain in the rear.

 

[brownfinger]

"electronic choke" isn't a real thing. It's a way to comprehend the ecu's functioning. A second butterfly controlled by the ecu would be a true "electronic choke". The fast-idle air-valve is a real thing. It's a thermo-mechanical device attached to the TB, designed to make your car do exactly what your car is doing. Check the NWS or weather channel.com to see what the low was in your area last night. If it was below 0*, you just might be stoned or something. If your car drives fine while it's running that cold, you're in better shape than a lot of us.
I haven't seen 2500rpm on my car, more like 1750. I'm in Normal, IL. It was battery-kill cold here this morning; 10-15*F. I bet it was colder there in the great white north. I just got my car into much better shape than it has been in along time. It's idle and cold start are finally starting to act the way I remember they used to. As winter goes on, rest assured that I'll be paying tons of attention to these issues and to this forum, too. I'm sure we'll all be in touch about this stuff.

P.S. I always get divine moments of inspiration and insight while showering and wishing I didn't have to shave my face. Do the BISS procedure next chance you get. At cold start the ecu completely retracts the ISC motor to help make a high idle. If the BISS is out too far, in those first 15 seconds, there isn't anything the ECU can do about an idle that is too high. It wouldn't, even if it could. If you advanced your ignition timing any, or adjusted your TPS, then a BISS adjustment procedure is necessary. Run the procedure anyway, even if you havent touched the CAS or TPS. just may do the trick.
Happy New Year! Let's all go to bars and/or parties and/or try to get laid!

 

[badabing33a]

I was wondering about this but most DSM's do it. Except mine, when its cold, will surge for about a minute or so.

 

[RyAn007]

Surging is usually caused by a boost leak or such, which would kind of make sense due to the cold weather meaning colder, denser air which will get out little out lets much easier. And for Lofty, listen to my car at school right when I start it, it does the same exact thing, and if you want a narrowband i have one for ya for a special price.

 

[spoonman]

" The fast-idle air-valve is a real thing. It's a thermo-mechanical device attached to the TB, designed to make your car do exactly what your car is doing. As winter goes on, rest assured that I'll be paying tons of attention to these issues and to this forum, too. I'm sure we'll all be in touch about this stuff.

Only one post answered the question correctly. Lofty you have never heard of a FIAV?
DAMN TEENAGERS

The FIAV is designed to make the engine reach it's normal operating temperature when the engine is cold why, because your pistons are aluminum and your block is cast iron, both have different thermal expansion rates. Even engines with aluminum pistons and an aluminum block need to reach operating temperature so that the pistons seal to the cylinder wall at the correct tolerances. If you let your engine warm up before you drive the car it will cause less wear on your pistons and cylinders as well as other engine components. The higher RPM's produce more heat to make the engine warm faster than at stock idle.