The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

High altitude mods

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Rock2610d

Proven Member
255
4
Jan 22, 2013
Cheyenne, Wyoming
I have a 95 AWD talon tsi,everything is stock except the engine which I just rebuilt. I put in 9.1 pistons, arp head bolts, and eagle rods. Had to mill head and block a total of .029 so I put on a .080 thick HG.
I live at 7800 feet and work at 6000 feet. So my pressure up here is about 10.5 psi instead of 14.7 psi.
What additional mods do I need to consider to make the car run like it did 275,000 miles ago when I bought it brand new? And ran it at about 500 ft of elevation.
 
Last edited:
If you are on the T25, running more boost to see that same indicated gauge pressure alone may not do it.

A turbo that moves as much or more air as you did when you were 500ft above sea level, but more efficiently at a higher pressure ratio. In your case, something like a 16G would be appropriate.
 
+1 of the 16g or bigger. Since you are running 9 to 1 compression you don't need an instant spool t25 aka blow dryer turbo. A big 16g (I recommend the evo 3 big 16g) typically spools a bit slower but that's not going to be an issue since you are running higher compression than the stock 8.5 to 1. What you'll notice is a nice power curve from 3k to redline unlike the t25 that starts loosing power at the higher rpms because of its efficiency. I went from a FP t-28 to a big 16g and noticed a big difference at the same psi setting (16). I can't imagine the difference you'll experience upgrading from a stock t(too small)25 :thumb:
 
Honestly i think a 14b would even suffice. Just throwing that out there.

This^:thumb:


I ran a small 16g at 7200 feet..I actually hit fuel cut being that high, which was weird.I also had no tune or anything at the time..

The 14b is a great upgrade to you 2g guys.
 
Figure out how much DA changes day to day. When you are already at 7k feet, depending on the area, one particularly good day could be DA 5.5K.. or a really bad day could approach 10K+ where the 14B would be out of breath compared to the 16G as well.

A 14B is such a small increment above the T25, that for the effort and money you'd be better with the 16G.
 
Figure out how much DA changes day to day. When you are already at 7k feet, depending on the area, one particularly good day could be DA 5.5K.. or a really bad day could approach 10K+ where the 14B would be out of breath compared to the 16G as well.

A 14B is such a small increment above the T25, that for the effort and money you'd be better with the 16G.

What effort? Its not a 3000gt vr4 or a 300zx tt (that makes me shutter)
 
Ok it reads like a evo 16g is what I will get. Considering the thin air is a fuel pump and injector upgrade needed?

You don't need to upgrade the injectors but adding 190lph fuel pump wouldn't be a bad idea. I'm currently running my big 16g@16psi and have the 190lph with no tune. According to road race engineering - that's the limit with no upgraded injectors and tune. I wouldn't run more than 14psi on the stock fuel pump if you get the turbo first and the fuel pump later.
 
With a legit Evo 3 16g you will need a larger pump and injectors to safely run anything over stock boost. Regardless of altitude. I was maxing out my stock fuel system at around 12psi with a legit Evo 3, and I'm a mile above sea level.
 
I have a small 16g with stock injectors (have 255, AFPR, feed and return lines) And at 16 psi Im at 83% duty cycle. Im guessing im making decent power because im running damn close to my buddys 315WHP wrx.

Stock injectors have suprised me.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well given this in put I will probably scrap the Evo 16G plan and just get a "regular" 16G. I do not want to add a lot of non stock stuff. I will get a 190 fuel pump though as the car has lots of miles and I have never had to replace the one it came with.
 
Both 16g's are non stock turbo's for our 2g's. It's a much better idea to get the evo 3 16g as it is a great turbo in every aspect to the previous 16g's. Whether you go with a 14b (stock from 1g) or a evo 3 16g - you will need a 2g install kit since the turbo has a different inlet angle. If you want to remain as stock looking as possible - the t-28 would be your best bet. Unfortunately, I don't think Forced Performance makes them anymore. Use the resources provided on this website to become more informed of these different setups before you buy anything :thumb:
 
OK, so I have been lucky and found some good turbos. I now have a 14B, a T25, and a couple of s16Gs.

All are in such good condition that I cannot detect any side to side or in and out. I am sure there is some, but I cannot detect it.

Now...I drive from home(7800 Ft.) to work(6200 ft) every day. My T-25 can have 7 psi of boost at about 1900 to 2100 rpm.:hellyeah: and full 15 psi at 3000. I have removed the altered stock BOV and put on a steel EVO 9 BOV.

When T-25 boost gets above 7 or 8 psi it sounds like: Well a empty air tank being filled by a high pressure high volume pump.

My new engine has only 850 miles one it and I RARELY rev past 5000 rpm. BUT this car is not the car I bought new in 1995 (500 Ft elevation).

What turbo would compensate for the altitude best and bring car back to stock performance.

All 3 turbos came with everything I need to hook up to my 2G. So that is not a concern. I just want my stock 2G to run like it did when I was young:D

You know what is nice about getting older......having money for my toys:)
 
Last edited:
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top