Spyder Help with Drivecycle, Monitor Readiness For Smog

[Tkzdsm]

Hey guys I have a 1998 GS-T spider and I was wondering if my drive cycle can be completed like normal, I read a couple other threads saying the 94-97 or something have an exemption and the 98’s have a problem sometimes? I’m not sure but I just want to know if I can actually get my drive cycle completed myself. thank you any feedback is appreciated.

Edit: it says I have a 25.5% spark advance at idle wtf? this surely isn’t normal right?! why is it so high and how can i change it, I also got a code for a misfire in cylinder one but It only misses for a minute or less and then disappears, could it be because of the spark adv? that’s the only guess I have

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[pauleyman]

You just reported in other threads you have other problems, a bad turbo etc. Get the car running right first then worry about this stuff.

 

[Tkzdsm]

You just reported in other threads you have other problems, a bad turbo etc. Get the car running right first then worry about this stuff.

i was simply just asking first ? i don’t see how it is a problem

 

[pauleyman]

i was simply just asking first ? i don’t see how it is a problem

I just mean it's putting the cart before the horse. Fix the problems you reported first then lets talk about monitors.

 

[Tkzdsm]

Hey guys I have a 1998 GS-T spider and I was wondering if my drive cycle can be completed like normal, I read a couple other threads saying the 94-97 or something have an exemption and the 98’s have a problem sometimes? I’m not sure but I just want to know if I can actually get my drive cycle completed myself. thank you any feedback is appreciated.

Edit: it says I have a 25.5% spark advance at idle WTF? this surely isn’t normal right?! why is it so high and how can i change it, I also got a code for a misfire in cylinder one but It only misses for a minute or less and then disappears, could it be because of the spark adv? that’s the only guess I have

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now on the topic of being ready is it possible for me to complete the drive cycle like i said

 

[pauleyman]

now on the topic of being ready is it possible for me to complete the drive cycle like i said

If you fixed that pipe and it runs well again by all means

 

[99dsmer4g63]

I was plagued with this problem. I eventually gave up TBH.

I’m not sure where you are located however this is how I “fixed” my problem. Really I didn’t care but I couldn’t get my car to pass emissions testing which is why i realized I had an issue to begin with.

I live in PA and had a “friendly” garage help me. In PA if you spend more than $250 on trying to pass emissions they will issue you a waiver for the year.

So me being me I unplugged my MAF to force a CEL for the MAF. Went to Autozone and bought a new MAF for $260 and made a copy of the receipt which prompted me to be eligible for a waiver for the year. After I simply returned my recently purchased MAF anyways .

Also if driving less than 5,000 miles you are considered exempt from emissions testing. I never drove it more than that anyways. If I did I would simply swap my cluster out and let the miles rack up on it before returning the original cluster if need be.

Call me shady IDC, but I got what I needed done and called that a win in my book. Once again IDK where you live but I would suggest doing some research and seeing if they are hoops you can jump through to get it passed.

I tried to get the monitors to complete for about 3-4 months before I took that route.

-Daniel

 

[Tkzdsm]

I was plagued with this problem. I eventually gave up TBH.

I’m not sure where you are located however this is how I “fixed” my problem. Really I didn’t care but I couldn’t get my car to pass emissions testing which is why i realized I had an issue to begin with.

I live in PA and had a “friendly” garage help me. In PA if you spend more than $250 on trying to pass emissions they will issue you a waiver for the year.

So me being me I unplugged my MAF to force a CEL for the MAF. Went to Autozone and bought a new MAF for $260 and made a copy of the receipt which prompted me to be eligible for a waiver for the year. After I simply returned my recently purchased MAF anyways .

Also if driving less than 5,000 miles you are considered exempt from emissions testing. I never drove it more than that anyways. If I did I would simply swap my cluster out and let the miles rack up on it before returning the original cluster if need be.

Call me shady IDC, but I got what I needed done and called that a win in my book. Once again IDK where you live but I would suggest doing some research and seeing if they are hoops you can jump through to get it passed.

I tried to get the monitors to complete for about 3-4 months before I took that route.

-Daniel

wow, I'm located in NV and yeah I have had no luck with the drive cycle, I still got about 2 weeks on my temp moving permit so I have to figure out something soon. If it comes to that I'll try your one year exemption strategy . Or maybe find a "friendly" smog place and get it done there.

I am planning to daily drive it however. (bad idea, I know)

 

[Tkzdsm]

Hey all, I saw quite a few posts saying that to complete the drive cycle monitors they either had to go to the dealer, or swap a different ECU.

I have a 98 GST Spyder and I’m not sure if the 98’s and 99’s have this problem or if it’s all older models. I called my local Mitsubishi dealer and asked if they could complete the monitors and they said they have no guarantee to pass smog and the price ranging from $240-$800. I’ve seen multiple other posts with people saying it cost about $120 for them to increase the monitor sensitivity and complete the monitors themselves.

I have driven about 300 miles trying to follow the manual. and yes I’m aware that I could drive 10000 miles and still not complete them unless I drive in a certain way. Would swapping a 99 ECU work? I’m a bit stuck with what 'm supposed to do. For now I’ll be trying to complete the manual as best as possible.

Anything’s appreciated thank you.

 

[Tkzdsm]

Hey all, I saw quite a few posts saying that to complete the drive cycle monitors they either had to go to the dealer, or swap a different ECU.

I have a 98 GST Spyder and I’m not sure if the 98’s and 99’s have this problem or if it’s all older models. I called my local Mitsubishi dealer and asked if they could complete the monitors and they said they have no guarantee to pass smog and the price ranging from $240-$800. I’ve seen multiple other posts with people saying it cost about $120 for them to increase the monitor sensitivity and complete the monitors themselves.

I have driven about 300 miles trying to follow the manual. and yes I’m aware that I could drive 10000 miles and still not complete them unless I drive in a certain way. Would swapping a 99 ECU work? I’m a bit stuck with what 'm supposed to do. For now I’ll be trying to complete the manual as best as possible.

Anything’s appreciated thank you.

how can i revive my thread

 

[Tkzdsm]

Hey all, I saw quite a few posts saying that to complete the drive cycle monitors they either had to go to the dealer, or swap a different ECU.

I have a 98 GST Spyder and I’m not sure if the 98’s and 99’s have this problem or if it’s all older models. I called my local Mitsubishi dealer and asked if they could complete the monitors and they said they have no guarantee to pass smog and the price ranging from $240-$800. I’ve seen multiple other posts with people saying it cost about $120 for them to increase the monitor sensitivity and complete the monitors themselves.

I have driven about 300 miles trying to follow the manual. and yes I’m aware that I could drive 10000 miles and still not complete them unless I drive in a certain way. Would swapping a 99 ECU work? I’m a bit stuck with what 'm supposed to do. For now I’ll be trying to complete the manual as best as possible.

Anything’s appreciated thank you.

 

[steve]

how can i revive my thread

By posting to it with new information, not by posting a new thread.