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help: timing belt serviced now car is vibrating

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DSM_One

20+ Year Contributor
38
0
Dec 26, 2002
North Arlington, New Jersey
Hi everyone. I just had a full timing belt service done on my car and now the car is vibrating and noisier. :barf: I had the shop to redo it but the vibration is still there. The mechanic said they had put them all correctly. The belt, pulleys and waterpump are all OEMs. Now what could have gone wrong? Please help, the vibration and noise is irritating the hell out of me. :(
 
They probably have the rear balance shaft out of phase. You have to rotate the oil pump sprocket 360* which will entail loosening the tension on the timing belt.
 
Thanks for the fast reply 90 GSX. Does rotating 360 degrees mean, from its current position, rotate the oil pump sprocket 360 degrees? Or is there a preset position to start from? Also rotate clockwise or counter-clockwise or it doesn't matter?
 
DSM90AWD said:
Take THIS to the shop that did your belt and have them read Step#24. :talon:

So if you recently did belts and already installed them and then do step 24 and find a problem, then rotate the oil pump sprocket to fix it, you then have to take the belt off and re-align everything...? Or is there a way to do step 24 and then fix the problem without taking all the covers and belts off?
 
Thanks guys, I have printed the directions and will take it to the shop.
 
I have shown the printed directions to the mechanic at the shop and he claimed that he did them correctly. :( He said that if I bring it to another shop and prove that they commited a mistake that he'll pay for the cost of redoing it. I'm highly tempted to bring the car to satan :barf: What do you guys think? Or can you suggest a shop, near where I am, who can? I'm from North Arlington, Bergen County, NJ.
 
TurboTrix is in Edison, NJ.. would prol help you diagnose the problem?
Definitely would not take it to the Dealor unless you wanted to pay for the TBelt change 2x.

Did the Mechanic replace the BS belt as well?
 
is the cause for the vibration? Maybe you should be there to watch the sprocket rotate correctly if it in fact is on there correctly....will he not do it again now?
 
All the belts and pulleys were replaced. The mechanic has no idea as to why, for him it's normal. Not for me though, I know how the car feels before the timing belt was serviced. And no he will not do it again. :(
 
If you are pretty darn sure your mechanic did the belt job wrong(seeing as how the trouble started after he got is hands on the vehicle), then take it to the dealership. Watch them do the complete job. Send the bill to your mechanic(tack on your time and labor). Who cares how much it costs? If he did the job wrong and your belt snapped because of it, causing you to crash and die at highway speeds, well i think you know where im going with this.
my $.02
 
DSM_One said:
I have shown the printed directions to the mechanic at the shop and he claimed that he did them correctly. :( He said that if I bring it to another shop and prove that they commited a mistake that he'll pay for the cost of redoing it.
Horseshit. Have him pull the check plug while you're there, and see if a screwdriver will go in. It won't.
 
Double-checking the Rear BS would'nt take much effort if you wanted to do it yourself:

1.) Jack the car up and drain the oil (since the bolt is above the pan may not need to)
2.) In neutral rotate the CS pulley clockwise with a 1/2" Drive untill the CS timing mark is at TDC on the Ignition Scale (Camshaft Pulley marks should also be aligned at this point if not you got other probs).
3.) Remove the BS access bolt (ala step #24)
4.) Insert Screwdriver.

If it goes in < 1" then it's 180 degrees off.

If it goes in > 1" then it aligned correctly. Though maybe they didn't align the front BS sprocket. Unfortunately.. checking that own would require removing the lower cover.. but could be done in an hours time following the VFAQ.

Just to be clear.. you are experiencing bad Vibrations at Idle thru ~3K RPMS at which point it smooths out (or is less noticable)?
 
I had this same exact problem... I took it to a dealer and they diagnosed it for free.. Even put it in writting. Took it back to the mechanic who said he did everything properly, and gave him the option of a) fixing it or b) I'll take it to the dealer who said it would cost 350.00 to fix and he pays the bill... He opted for option A and guess what he forgot the scredriver part or as he put it his manual did'nt have anything on that step.. Thanks to the dealer who also faxed over a step by step manual on how to do this crucial step..

Good luck dont listen to this mechanic, he is wrong...
 
DSM90AWD said:
Just to be clear.. you are experiencing bad Vibrations at Idle thru ~3K RPMS at which point it smooths out (or is less noticable)?

Yes, the vibration becomes less noticeable at high RPMs. So does that confirm that the BS is out of phase?
 
If the screwdriver trick turns out ok then your camshaft markings are probably off. I had a similar problem where at idle my car sounded like it was backfiring. The exhaust sounded really deep and was pulsating. The engine at idle vibrated a lot and you could hear a pinging noise coming from the intake valves. But when I drove it it was fine. I did the mistake of not aligning all four camshaft sprocket markers with a straight edge. Basically my camshaft alignment was off by 2 teeth.
 
I brought my car to the dealership and they told me its gonna cost me $500+ just to diagnose the problem. :barf: I was outta there like a bat out of hell. Guess I have to try some other shops, even TurboTrix if there is no one near me that can do this.. :(
 
Would be suprised if the dealor didn't also want to replace all the belts / tensioners as well.
Best bet is to read the VFAQ and do it yourself or find a local DSMer that would help you out for a couple $s or beer.

To reset the belt would take a shop ~2hours.. so depending on their labor rate would be in the $150-180 range.
 
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