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ECMlink HELP! Rough Idle & knock tried EVERYTHING!!!!!!

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geno414

10+ Year Contributor
440
4
Jan 13, 2011
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Lets start by saying I have a 1995 eagle Talon TSI AWD with a 2g head with a 6 bolt bottom. 2.3 stroker motor NOT the 2.0 L engine. Last winter I broke and replaced my alternator belt. At that time I added STP(red bottle) to my gas. I drove about 10 miles and while at a stoplight I noticed the idle was different. Normally the idle is consistent at 1k RPM, now it sounds like there are big cams in the car but I have stock cams, and the RPM bounces up and down, and at the back end of the exhaust it does not smell or sound right. So I parked the car and tried to fix it. My air fuel ratio was normal on my wide band gauge. Alternator was charging correctly, and everything was good, but I couldn't figure it out. I thought that it might have been fuel related, so I drained the gas tank, and refilled it with fresh gas. I changed fuel injectors, coil packs, new spark plugs(gapped correctly), wires, checked for boost leaks, cleaned MAF sensor, new knock sensor, checked wiring and wiring harness, checked the ecu (looked good), new MAP sensor, new ISC sensor. Replaced throttle body gasket, intake manifold gasket, thermostat sensor, and the power control unit. I did a hot compression test multiple times and for the readings; Cylinder 1 was 200 psi, cylinder 2 was185 psi, cylinder 3 was 185 psi, and cylinder 4 was 180. Checked timing at TDC and cams lined up but my crank did not line up so I retimed the car and put new cam seals in and torqued everything back to spec. I checked all fuses as well. When I open her up at WOT(wide open throttle) and the data logs said I had knock. I do not have a check engine light, I do have data logs and videos to show if needed. I have tried everything I can think of, I need my car fixed ASAP it has been down too long. Thank you for helping me out, any advice is greatly appreciated.
 

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what cam sensor are you running? you could have phantom knock. its picked up by the knock sensor but not heard by us
 
what cam sensor are you running? you could have phantom knock. its picked up by the knock sensor but not heard by us
I am using the 1g black top cas. And I have bought 2of them from the dealership brand new.. And also replaced knock sensor with new oem one all parts I have bought new are oem.
 
i can't pull up the log but is it knocking at idle or just under boost? if its at idle and its not a bearing then its phantom knock which can be caused by the 1g cas. it may not be the problem but just a possible cause
 
i can't pull up the log but is it knocking at idle or just under boost? if its at idle and its not a bearing then its phantom knock which can be caused by the 1g cas. it may not be the problem but just a possible cause
It's just at wot I get knock and the car isn't running normal to be honest it should idle normal as stock but it doesn't any more. Kinda stumbles when running and sounds really cammed I adjusted my knock to only turn on after 2500rpm and 50% tps to get rid of phantom knock if there was any my car was also Dino tuned all this happened about a year ago I replaced all most every sensor I could and did all most everything to fix it but pull the head and engine trying to fix fast as I can since winter is right around the corner .
 
if the knock is showing at WOT throttle only, then I would suspect real knock. What boost are you running? what turbo? how much timing/and or how are you tuning it to make sure you have the correct timing advance and fueling at WOT? Compression checks sound as bit weird, never seen a dsm engine test 200 psi before. If you have a loopy idle, I would suspect you have your cam timing off. (the marks can "look" lined up, but are infact slightly pointed upwards or down.). Take a picture of your cam timing marks pointing at each other, (with the crank pully lined up at "T" on the timing cover marks). I had this happen to me the first time I tried to line up my timing belt myself.
 
I am using Dsm link v3 lite . My timing is stock my gears were 100% dead on but my crank pulls was some how off at tdc so I re did my timing and I got it to run a little bit better and yea my idle is loopy . My comp test is with it being hot and my car has been foiling my plugs so maybe gas or oil got in there ?. It couldn't be a bent valve rite? If I'm holding compression ? My turbo is a hybrid 20g cold side 16g hot side . Car is also properly tuned with all supporting mods. I changed all most every sensor with new own ones new plugs wires all most everything . That's why I am lost I have never ran into a problem on a Dsm that I couldn't fix or find I'm really stuck. I'm at 17psi when it's cold out and 20 psi in the summer 93 oct
 
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My 1g also idles like this and my wideband will bounce between rich and lean. Not quite a cam sound but a lot more separated lobes. It only does it when the car is fully warm. I suspected a vacuum leak but I dreanched everything with carb cleaner and nothing. The car has done it since I've bought it and I figured it was in the tune, I'm not able to access the tuner because the website won't let me make an account to download a .xls or something like that. I just leaned to accept it for now until I get dsmlink.
 
My 1g also idles like this and my wideband will bounce between rich and lean. Not quite a cam sound but a lot more separated lobes. It only does it when the car is fully warm. I suspected a vacuum leak but I dreanched everything with carb cleaner and nothing. The car has done it since I've bought it and I figured it was in the tune, I'm not able to access the tuner because the website won't let me make an account to download a .xls or something like that. I just leaned to accept it for now until I get dsmlink.
Well I have Dsm link and it never did this before my car will bounce rpm from around 700to about 1500 and I will also get knock I boost leak tested and fixed the leaks I think it's more major I just NEED to find out what it is so I can fix it the problem I'm having is I can't find it no matter what . I thought I had bent valves but my car holds compression
Thought I had bad gas so I drain it but nothing ever works . My wide band is pretty good around 14.5 ish not going from lean to ritch at all
 
Well I have Dsm link and it never did this before my car will bounce rpm from around 700to about 1500 and I will also get knock I boost leak tested and fixed the leaks I think it's more major I just NEED to find out what it is so I can fix it the problem I'm having is I can't find it no matter what . I thought I had bent valves but my car holds compression
Thought I had bad gas so I drain it but nothing ever works . My wide band is pretty good around 14.5 ish not going from lean to ritch at all
What I don't understand about mine is that you can start it up while its cold and it will idle beautifully at ~900 RPM and the wideband will be perfect, but its like it enters a closed loop when it hits a certain temp and the idle surges like it does and like I said, the wideband goes nutter between rich and lean.
 
Take me a pic of ur cam gear marks at TDC.

Justin. Sounds like classic idle surge. Test your ISC coils for proper resistance and also it could be a faulty FAIV(fast air idle valve). That's if you have verified your proper base idle adjustment. (BISS screw set properly according to specs)
 
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I will take a pic I'm out of town rite now but is it possible for the crank to jump timing because when I checked it the first time the crank was off but came lined up dead nuts so I re timed it and it still runs the same . I was thinking I had bent valves but my car held psi when I did a compression test
.
 
What I don't understand about mine is that you can start it up while its cold and it will idle beautifully at ~900 RPM and the wideband will be perfect, but its like it enters a closed loop when it hits a certain temp and the idle surges like it does and like I said, the wideband goes nutter between rich and lean.
When I had idle surge I replaced the isc motor and fixed boost leaks also made sure my isc was all set up rite but that's the past trying to get my car to run rite again . Lol
 
Do your injectors stay under/ around 85%? walbro pump rewired?
Yes my ingectors stay under 85% idc. And no my pump is not rewired have owned the car for 6 years never once had a problem with it. But I did buy a stem re wire kit . I doubt it's that tho I can post a video two if u guys want so you can listen to it .
 
Bump!!!!! I need help still can any one help I've done everything you guys ask so far don't give up on me there has to be some one on this website that had this problem come on help a guy out spread the word I need this car fixed !
 
Did you get that re-wire done on the pump?
The fuel pump could be the biggest baddest pump but if it's not getting proper voltage under load...
Did you re-verify your timing marks?
May sound dumb but did you the plug wires on correctly?
Is your profile current?
You are not logging your wb?
 
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Bad Power Transistor Unit around 30-40 buck used.

When they go out, they usually drop cylinders 2 and 3. Engine will idle but struggle depending on what cams you running. Will sound real cammy. RPMs on tach will read half of what the engine is really doing. So jumping from 700 to 1400 rpm sounds about right.

If im right, you owe me.
 
Bad Power Transistor Unit around 30-40 buck used.

When they go out, they usually drop cylinders 2 and 3. Engine will idle but struggle depending on what cams you running. Will sound real cammy. RPMs on tach will read half of what the engine is really doing. So jumping from 700 to 1400 rpm sounds about right.

If im right, you owe me.
i tried a power transistor because I broke my old one LOL didn't fix it ill buy a new one off ebay tho and try it
 
Did you get that re-wire done on the pump?
The fuel pump could be the biggest baddest pump but if it's not getting proper voltage under load...
Did you re-verify your timing marks?
May sound dumb but did you the plug wires on correctly?
Is your profile current?
You are not logging your wb?
no I ave not its sitting in the shop my car is out side with a car covor on it since its been around -27 out I havnt worked on it at all im driving a Honda with no exhaust atm and a blown tranny so im in desperate need of my dsm
 
no I ave not its sitting in the shop my car is out side with a car covor on it since its been around -27 out I havnt worked on it at all im driving a Honda with no exhaust atm and a blown tranny so im in desperate need of my dsm

my 2g dsm is on a cop set up and when I thought it was my coil pack I went back to advanced auto to buy a stock one and still did the same no my profile is old set up
 
Did you get that re-wire done on the pump?
The fuel pump could be the biggest baddest pump but if it's not getting proper voltage under load...
Did you re-verify your timing marks?
May sound dumb but did you the plug wires on correctly?
Is your profile current?
You are not logging your wb?
my w/b is hooked up to my down pipe but I have no idea how to install it to my logger at all do you?
 
Check the injector resistor pack.

Also make sure that STP stuff didnt clog up an injector.

You really need to start car, let it idle, then one by one disconnect the injector harness and listen to see if engine speed changes. Find which 1 or 2 cylinders arent firing.
 
You need to adjust your TPS. Your throttle is at 1% when its supposed to be at 0%.

Start a new log with the engine off. Slowly do a full sweep of the throttle a couple times. Right click the log screen and click TPSadjust. Click save to ECU.
 
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