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95fwdtsi18psi

10+ Year Contributor
803
0
Jan 6, 2009
West Laffayette, Indiana
Ok so here is the problem, my friend just bought a 95 GS-T. It has a motor out of a 93' Talon Tsi, and is using the T25. I haven't had time to go help him with it, so he made this vid for me. It knocks pretty bad, but doesn't scale with the RPM's it produces. I will say that the previous owner really ####ed him over on this, vac lines are everywhere, and he has the BOV venting to atmosphere...

The car will not idle, and runs pug rich, but I'm sure that is because of this BOV situation which will be fixed promptly. I'll link him this and have him see your answers for himself when he gets time, but this is urgent so I posted it ahead of time for him. Thanks in advance guys!!!

YouTube - please help
 
Put your hand on the motor while it is running and cool see if you can feel the knock. Pull the dipstick and check it for metal flakes. If you are feeling the knock through the engine it has spun a rod baring. If you can't feel the knock it could be a bad oil pump or balance shaft problem be sure to check the oil pressure.
 
Ok, Thanks for posting this Caleb. I checked the oil and it was golden as honey...My motor has no balance shafts on it...I'm hoping it is only a crank pulley...Hopefully. Any other ideas? Thanks for the help so far!
 
Return it to stock. Can't really help you other than that. Tons of things could make it run rich:

bad o2 sensor
bad maf sensor
boost leak
plugs/wires
turbo going out
bad or damaged ECU
bad coolant temp sensor
bov unrecirculated
vacuum lines and etc.
bigger fuel pump with no AFPR

Your going to have to fix the bov and clean up the vacuum lines first. After that, do a boost leak test. Check the plugs. Is the Check Engine Light on? Need to pull up the codes if so. Let us know after wards, can't rush what can not be done.
 
Return it to stock. Can't really help you other than that. Tons of things could make it run rich:

bad o2 sensor
bad maf sensor
boost leak
plugs/wires
turbo going out
bad or damaged ECU
bad coolant temp sensor
bov unrecirculated
vacuum lines and etc.
bigger fuel pump with no AFPR

Your going to have to fix the bov and clean up the vacuum lines first. After that, do a boost leak test. Check the plugs. Is the Check Engine Light on? Need to pull up the codes if so. Let us know after wards, can't rush what can not be done.

Running rich shouldn't be his first concern, although it's no good! :banghead:

That knock should be #1 on his to-do list, and I think it is. The funny thing is, it doesn't scale to the RPM's it produces.
 
I agree, drop the oil pan check for play in the rods/caps. Also check for obvious things rattling around that you could be overlooking. I started hearing a knock the other night while driving. Immediately pulled overand checked under the hood to investigae, come to find out it was my hood rod that i didnt clip down and it was rattling on the core support.
 
I'm hoping it's nothing to big...I just checked my plugs and they came out perfect...I checked the oil and there is no metal shavings in the oil...Any other ideas?
 
This was posted as a GS-T, then all of a sudden the owner comes on posting it's his car, as a N/T (W/Turbo) just wanted to clear this up, as it will help in diagnosis...Either that or I'm just an idiot and missed something.

Edit: Sorry just re-watched the vid after posting. It's obviously a 4g63, but the owners car description seems to show different. (Turbo 420A)
 
No that was my fault, sorry. It's a long story from the previous owner...But on the insurance and everything it shows up as a GS-T...But, It's not a true GS-T...It supposedly has the motor out of a 93 Talon TSI. Sorry about the confusion.
 
Your fine...Just wanted everyone to know what's up. Although they did from the video, and it was my late-night, slightly "tipsy" mind :) that didn't have a clue. Good luck though. Hope all gets figured out and fixed! Dsm's may let you down at times, but they are worth it in the end :hellyeah:
 
This has been a headache since day 1 when I got it...Hopefully it all turns out for the best thought. Thanks for the support.
 
Well, I won't get into the "headache" I encountered 3 days after I bought my car, but I feel ya.....And others do too. The cool thing is: we have this site, with hundreds of very experienced and helpful DSM'ers. Anything you can do, or is done, to your DSM can be fixed by countless people on this site. So, no worries. Just go to sleep and respond "bump" back to us in the morning. Not a whole lot of people on this late.
 
This was posted as a GS-T, then all of a sudden the owner comes on posting it's his car, as a N/T (W/Turbo) just wanted to clear this up, as it will help in diagnosis...Either that or I'm just an idiot and missed something.

Edit: Sorry just re-watched the vid after posting. It's obviously a 4g63, but the owners car description seems to show different. (Turbo 420A)

I wouldn't have said that if it was a 420A ;)

But I see what you are saying, it was kind of misleading.
 
That sounds like a horrible rod knock to me.

Also check the auto tensioner, if the arm is fully extended it can make a sound similar to rod knock. I doubt that is it though.
 
It seems like there is only knock under acceleration. That's why I suggested to fix the other problems first. Is there any CEL's? Did you pull the pain? If you are skilled, I would just take the head off and take a look for any scoring or contact.
 
It seems like there is only knock under acceleration. That's why I suggested to fix the other problems first. Is there any CEL's? Did you pull the pain? If you are skilled, I would just take the head off and take a look for any scoring or contact.

Fix the knock first! If it is a rod you will fix everything to find out that you need a new/rebuilt motor.
 
headache LOL i had to wait a year to get my title LOL. dealing with a car that doesnt yell back is easier than dealing with dealerships LOL. Did you check the rod caps and im not sure if it has rubber in the middle of the hermonic balancer or not.
 
It seems like there is only knock under acceleration. That's why I suggested to fix the other problems first. Is there any CEL's? Did you pull the pain? If you are skilled, I would just take the head off and take a look for any scoring or contact.

I agree with 96 eclipze on this, that knock is more of a concern. Although I do see what you are saying.

I told him to check the crank pulley and about that rubber spacer, mine seperated on me last month, but didn't do anything but shut down my water pump, and everything power in the car...Hopefully that is all it is, the clean oil is a good sign though!
 
It's really hard to pinpoint the noise from the video; can you tell whereabouts it's coming from? If it's an auto, could it be a cracked flexplate? If it's manual, does the clutch fork contact the pressure plate in an undesireable way? If you have a long extension or metal bar, you can put it against various engine parts and put your ear to the other end. That always helps me locate where noises are coming from.
 
IThanks for the help so far first of all...But I know the noise is coming from the left side of the engine bay if you are sitting in the driver seat. If it was a rod knock wouldn't my motor have absoultly no power at all? It has some power and runs just fine at 10psi. Also, it doesn't "knock" at idle. If it was a rod wouldn't it also knock at idle? Thanks.
 
OK, just an update..."Knocking" noise doesn't get louder as the RPM's increase. Its mainly around 3,000rpm...Don't hear it at idle. Only when idling around while driving. Any ideas? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks.
 
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