The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Help, Latest Logs & Lots Of Questions

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

hottboost

15+ Year Contributor
273
1
May 17, 2006
Romney, West Virginia
2500 To Redline In 3rd Gear. How Do These Look? Havent Did The 550's Or Safc Yet!!!!

Timing O2 Rpms

13 0.91 2516
10 0.93 2648
09 0.93 2796
07 0.93 2932
06 0.95 3104
04 0.95 3288
04 0.95 3492
05 0.95 3700
06 0.95 3904
07 0.95 4096
08 0.95 4256
08 0.95 4484
08 0.95 4660
09 0.95 4828
10 0.95 4984
11 0.95 5144
11 0.95 5316
12 0.95 5468
13 0.95 5620
13 0.95 5756
14 0.95 5916
16 0.95 6044
16 0.95 6180
17 0.95 6284
17 0.95 6400
17 0.95 6516
17 0.95 6596
17 0.95 6688
18 0.95 6784
18 0.95 6856

Also On A Seperate Log Air Temp 91 & Water Temp 213 & Air Flow 27.95
How Do I Get The Water Temp Down. I Know Thats High, And How Does The Air Temp And Air Flow Look?
 
Your coolant temps are effecting your timing advance possibley by 3 degrees if I'm not mistaken. So that means your advance could still potentially hit 20-21 degrees no problem.

But your o2's, though while they vary greatly from car to car, seem ok. It is hard to diagnose those unless the values are way out of spec.

At around 3000rpm's you get into trouble. Timing advance as low as 4 degrees.

Flushing your radiator, checking your radiator shroud, replacing your thermostat, cleaning yoru engine bay can all help to achieve lower coolant temps, but your temps aren't outrageously high. Shoot for around 206 for a max operating temp to remain in the optimal operating temperature range while not pulling any timing.

How much boost are you running?
 
anybody else have some input. Engine bay is clean, changed coolany in nov. The temp gauge in the car stays at the half way point. I was going to try some water wetter by redline. Also should I turn the boost down untill I get the 550's and safc in?
 
Yes, keep your boost around 14psi and try a logging from there.
17psi on a Big T-28 is most likely way to lean for stock injectors and fuel pump. Most liely the reason you have a shitty log too.

Is your 190 pump installed yet?, or is it waitng with your 550's?

None of this is really relevant though.
Lower your boost to around 14psi.
Install 550's.
Install fuel pump (if not already).
Install SAFC.
Tune, tune and tune.

Don't go raising boost until you've got a good baseline tune.

Good luck.
 
Did the coolant and engine flush. Also did the fuel filter. The fuel filter was in hatefull shape, looked like swamp water coming out of it. Anyway with the 190 fuel pump should I still turn the boost down. Im still at work but when I go home tonight I was thinking of logging a run with the new fuel filter to see if that helped at all.
 
Yeah that's my guess. Your 190 is probably giving your FPR a workout and making you run rich.
Once you get your 550's in and SAFC you'll be able to tune that shiat out :thumb:

You could also experiment (CAREFULLY) with higher boost and see if you can ditch that low end knock and end up with o2's around .94, if it's gonna be a while before your installations.
 
Probally be about another 2 weeks or so. I was thinking that. Like raising it .5 psi at a time and pulling a log. Then going from there. Now at 17psi my o2's are at 0.95 but timing is being pulled. I thinks its knock but could it be because Im running rich at 17PSI? By the way ive did a ton of searches as to what is max boost on big t28. Would you have any idea? with pump gas I would guess about 22ish??? Thanks man youve been a big help.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top