help in engine rebuild

[chrisb33]

Ok this story might be a long read and i hope you can be patient with me.

set up:

2g 7bolt engie
garrett t3 turbo
stock exhaust manifold
510cc injectors
stock internals
DSMlink
Meth kit
Ugraded fuel lines
Bosch adjustable fuel pressure regulator
adjustable cam gears
HKS mushroom filter
609 MAF
stock head
FWD LSD
walbro 255hp
NGK BPR7ES


a year ago, because of mistune and faulty wiring on the box, my engine got into trouble. I broke one connecting rod, and my stock crankshaft had to be regrinded (im not confident with regrinding especially with the machine shops here in the philippines), and my valves got broken in half!

so what i did ia replaced my cylinder head, replaced the connecting rod that was broken, and as mentioned above, regrinded my stock crankshaft.

i also had my wiring fixed and purchased DSMLink for better tuning, plus installed meth kit to help knock suppression.

my pistons seem to be fine as of the moment but im also not sure if they're going to last that long, now can it handle my HP goals. there were abrasions on top of the pistons due to the incident last year.

what i plan to do now is to aim for 400-450whp with room to increase more when the "itch arises"

so my plan is:

purchase FP Green turbo (internally gated)
FP race manifold
Ross race pistons
Eagle H-Beam Rods
ACL trimetal main and rod bearings
ARP head bolts
cometic head gasket
Greddy Type RS recirculating BOV
Fidanza lightened flywheel
new clutch kit from fidanza (not sure which model to get any suggestions?)

im not going to race on the track but i sure want to give the new evos and the subarus a run for their money with my sleeper set up on the street.

Logically it would be better for me to purchase an eagle crankshaft but they really cost a fortune! so im thinking of buying an OEM crankshaft instead. Will this be a wise idea?

Does anyone know if the H-Beam rods come with rod bolts? if so, do i have to upgrade them with ARP rod bolts?

Will i have to upgrade my valve springs and retainers?

i really dont want to install cams on my set up coz i dont want to have a hard time tuning my iding. this car is intended to be used as a daily driver.

Am i heading to the right direction? or am i missing something?

if i can save on cost by not buying something listed above without sacrificing reliability of the engine, please let me know.

TIA.

chris b

 

[Rob10_99]

What manifold are you running for the T3?
If its in good shape just run a 30/35R,
As for the rods they should come with arp bolts.
See if you can get a deal from someone with a buy-in on parts you want, the markup on some of those is huge.
What fuel are you running down there?

Hey manilla, thats where that plane almost blew apart!

 

[chrisb33]

What manifold are you running for the T3?
If its in good shape just run a 30/35R,
As for the rods they should come with arp bolts.
See if you can get a deal from someone with a buy-in on parts you want, the markup on some of those is huge.
What fuel are you running down there?

Hey manilla, thats where that plane almost blew apart!

im running a stock 2g manifold with a custom made adaptor.

fuel octane rating here is from 93 - 96+ depends on what gas station. i personally use 96+ octane all the time.

but i really want to use the FP race manifold and the FP green hahaha. but of course im flexible with the manifold and the turbo.

in the website of garrett, the gt30 says it's a non-gated system. does this mean it isnt available in an internally gated set up? or it doesnt need a wastegate at all - internal or external.

i can have a custom made exhaust manifold fabricated here in manila. there's a good shop here that does them pretty well at a reasonable price.

what about upgrading the springs and retainers on the head?

thanks.

chris b