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Help I WannaBe a Tuner

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WannaBeTuner

Probationary Member
4
0
Apr 30, 2004
Cocoa, Florida
Well I have a question that I am hopin to find an answer.I am new to this tuneing thing.I have a 1st gen 93 Eclipse GS N/T automatic w/OD. I have done as many checks as I could possibly do.I used a volt meter to check for codes. I didn't get anything.I know that battery is not dead so don't ask me if I checked to see if I need a new battery. Because I fully charged it and then tried to turn the car on. I tried to see if I could pin point a cetain thing but no luck.I would like to know if anyone has an opinion or idea on what could be my problem.I was thinkin of buying a new E.C.U but I don't wanna spend the money if it is a problem that kills the computer. I have been told by the dealer just by word of mouth that I might need a new ISC Servo? I have a Chiltons guide and it does not have that term in it at all I have heard of it and I belive I know where it is. My car will turn over but not start.It does not seem to turn over too fast or too slow. My check engine light seems to flicker too it will sometimes stay on for the 5 seconds when i start it but not most of the time. Please Help me :dsm:
 
i'm afraid you probably aren't going to get many reply's to your post.

It is very broad and confusing.

Did you test the battery while it was just sitting still. If so, did you test it while under a load, like while it was being cranked? The juice of it under a load is different then it just sitting there, it can fool you. But since you said it turns over, but won't start, leaves me to believe it's something else.

Has there been any recent maintenance done on the car? Anything at all by yourself or a mechanic shop/dealership?

Just curious, but how did you check codes with a multimeter?

Is there any ghetto wiring done to the fuse box and battery?

lights flickering is usually a loose wire of some sort.

Cars turning over and not starting= no fuel, no fire, or no air. Start there first.
Then I would take the cover off the ECU and give it a good looking over for any burn marks and give it a sniff for something burnt.

Keep us posted and if you figure it out, let us know what it was.
 
Here I re-wrote your post to make it clearer for everyone, please use this format for the rest of your questions ;):

I have a 93 Eclipse GS A/T that won't start. It turns over but won't start, it doesn't seem to turn over to fast or too slow. Also, my check engine light flickers when I try to start it. I have tried the following things:

-I fully charged the battery
-I checked for ECU codes

I think its either the ECU or the ISC (I have been told by the dealer from word of mouth about the ISC). I would like to be sure that it is the ECU before I purchase a new one, especially if it is a problem that kills the ECU. Thanks for all the help, (your name)!

See that is much more clearer and easier to read, so you will get MANY more responses. It takes some time to get really good at writing easy-to-read posts, but you will get the hang of it. Anyway back to your problem. Its not the ISC (Idle Speed Controller) because that controls the idle, if the ISC was bad the car would still start, but it wouldn't idle good. In 1G DSMs (90-94) the ECUs have leaky capacitors (caps) that cause the ECU to malfunction, and if the caps leak onto the circuit board, bye-bye ECU! If your caps are leaking but the shit hasn't touched the circuit board then you can replace them and you will be back to normal (hopefully). Anyway, I would open up the ECU and see what it looks like, if your not sure, take a pic and post it up here and we can determine it. Good luck!
 
I am sorry that I was not clear.I had a friend of mine who works on computer boards check for burns but none were sighted. Again I am lost on what could be the problem . problems I think it might be is one the ECU or two the distributor coil.If the distibutor coil is bad then that means the distributor itself needs to be replaced.Again sorry I was not so clear. :dsm:
 
I got a new ECU. Well I was super excited when I brought it home and threw it in the car.
I went and got the key put it in and it started but....I had to hold the throttle open all the way for it to run the revs were only 500 at the most. I have no idea what is wrong now I am not sure but I wanna say that it could be the ISC let me know if anyone might have any clue as to why it isn't running correctly.
 
Wow...come on tuners.
1) Crebotech didn't work for me (one man's opinion)
2) You just burned a grand on a new ECU and it didn't solve your problems, learn from that mistake.
3) You should take it to the dealer, let them play with it for an hour or two, pay they're labor charge, then hear what they have to say. ($70/hour labor + $$ parts to fix problem) Chances are whatever you pay, it will be a helluva lot less than buying a "new ECU".
4) If you don't have the knowledge, have someone who does help you (i.e. dealer, dsm mechanic, etc...)
5) If I had to take an educated guess, I'd say you're BISS is not set properly. You need to get your BISS, timing, and spark all checked out.
 
I sent my E (Eclipse) to a shop.I got word two days later.First they told me they checked compression it was good.Next they checked timing they told me that was perfect. they said they were gonna do a dyno...how I was not quite sure since it didn't really run too well. But anyways they call me back a few days later told me timing was off a tooth like it hopped now it runs decent but they said sell it now.What should I do? :confused:
 
well if the compression test was good (post the numbers)

then you don't have bent valves and all you need is someone to do a timing belt/balance shaft job
 
I am embarrassed a little here. If you are holding the throttle all the way open and the engine won't rev then it isn't any part of your idle system. So stop looking at the ISC and other related parts.

I don't believe that only 1 tooth would cause this problem but it is possible. Doing the timing belt isn't that hard and you can do it in a weekend your first time fairly easily. Do it yourself if you think you can it will be good experience.

I would have to say it looks like you are not firing correctly on all cylinders. This could be from retarded spark timing, problems with the fuel system, problems with the ignition system, or cam timing.

Since you know you have a cam timing problem (double check their work it only takes a few minutes) start there and fix that problem. Once that is fixed we can look at other things.
 
There are a few obvious problems that have not been addressed. The batter is one. I had my FWD down for a few months and the battery had died. We recharged it and the car would turn over but not start. We charged it more and it ran, but like shit. Our cars need a good amount of voltage to keep the ignition system alive. If anyone has driven with a bad alt. and tried to get on the car it will stutter really bad after about 5K because there isnt enough voltage. Charging a battery will not always fix it so get another one, even if it from another car and try that.

After that check to make sure that you are getting spark at the plug. Some will say to just chekc it at the coil, but what if one of you wires has a crack in it, you wont get any spark at the plug. Then make sure you have fuel in the chambers. That one may be hard to varify but keep trying and you will be able to see. After you have done that do an intake leak test. It almost sounds liek you have a huge vacuum leak or the MAF isnt hooked up or reading correctly. If the MAF wasnt hooked up then it would throw a code.

You said that the CEL came on but you havent told us what codes it was for. I also would like to know how you checked coeds with a volt meter?

This is most likely something dumb, but eveyone wants a quick answer. "oh its plug X. Plug that in and you will be fine" It doesnt work that way. You will need to take a logical start to it and keep messing with it until you find what it is.

Michael
:talon: :laser:
 
I wonder how much larger this would of got if no one pointed out the date. I almost responded as well.
 
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