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help i got crankwalk

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poweradeTSI said:
darn it my car has crankwalk what shouldi do any cheapfixes out there. :cry:

Oh really? How much play did the crank have and how did you come upon this conclusion?
 
if your engine already blew up, might as well get a built 6bolt. i see you are in cali, so it might be worth the drive to haul your car to RRE and have it done right. i live down in SD and if my dsm ever blew up it would haul it all the way to LA to have it done right!
 
shaun at full function told me i had crankwalk . well i guess i have to look for a 6bolt now.anybody know any places that sell them cheap.
 
okay if i get my 7bolt rebuilt will crankwalk come back. i'm saying this because u need some other parts to swap the 6bolt in to my car.
 
It seems like a hit or a miss with a rebuilt 7 bolt engine. It seems to me that many people don't have good luck with a rebuild and some have reported their crank walking again in a very short period from the rebuild.

It's really not that much more effort to throw in a 6 bolt block. The bottom end will be out anyway so you might as well persue it and much of the accessories from the 7 bolt will be swapped over.

It's not a surefire way to prevent future crankwalk escapades but it seems to be the most reliable.
 
i only asked this because i saw magnus motorsports and they sell a 7bolt rebuilt.i wonder if there engines still can get crankwalk
 
Newlogics motorsports, San Pablo California 510-234-1568

they are great with dsm. there is absolutely no reason to go to southern California to get a damn 6bolt swap done. ask for Paul. they have plenty of extra blocks waiting to be built. they are doing a six bolt swap as we speak. don't fear they know what there doing. They are building my engine. Im friends with the owners.

tell them tim told you about them.
 
My understanding is that crankwalk occurs because of a bad batch of crankshafts. If you rebuild your 7bolt, put a new crankshaft in. I've seen a couple of cheap fixes but they are only temporary and I would think that you would do more damage than good with a temp. fix.

I say get a 6bolt. I've seen them in junkyards and whatnot.
 
How do you know if you are about to get crankwalk, I was told disengaging the safety clutch switch helps for not putting so much pressure on the thrust bearings. :talon:
 
i did that clutch saftey switch removal thing. its great cause i get in thru the passenger side, start the car (never left in gear cause of turbo timer), hit the window switch and go around.
 
Ya so dont even try to fix or rebuild the engine. I promise that you will be kicking yourself in the teeth soon after the rebuild/fix. Its not worth the money.
that shop i posted above is extreemley reasonable. Just go with a six bolt swap. Where do you take for dsm to be worked on??? I know there is not to many compatent shops in the bay area. I know I had the pleasure of dealing with a few before I found NewLogics.
 
poweradeTSI said:
darn it my car has crankwalk what shouldi do any cheapfixes out there. :cry:

If you havent started ####ing up ## block, pull the motor and replace the bearings - simple solution
 
crankwalk is when your main thrust bearing goes out. i recently got crankwalk to. i do not reccomend another stock 7 bolt. do not rebuild an engine that has crankwalk. excessive damage has been done. a 6 bolt is an option, or buying a 7 bolt from someone who has put a stronger thrust bearing in there. 6 bolts are stronger, 7 bolts are lighter. its your choice. the problem with a 6 bolt in a 2g is a 2g doesn't have a cam angle sensor and a 6 bolt does. you have to wire it to the computer.

sorry dude. hope things go well.
 
RUSURE said:
How do you know if you are about to get crankwalk, I was told disengaging the safety clutch switch helps for not putting so much pressure on the thrust bearings. :talon:
take a hard right turn and see if your clutch drops to the floor.
 
If your crank sensor is beat all to hell and doesn't work anymore. Causes the car to never start. That's by far the easiest way to tell. However to verify for sure, pry on the crank pulley from the driver's side to the passengers side and see if the whole assembly moves. Then have someone step on the clutch and see if it moves back. Any visible movement is bad.
 
dsm42788 said:
crankwalk is when your main thrust bearing goes out. i recently got crankwalk to. i do not reccomend another stock 7 bolt. do not rebuild an engine that has crankwalk. excessive damage has been done. a 6 bolt is an option, or buying a 7 bolt from someone who has put a stronger thrust bearing in there. 6 bolts are stronger, 7 bolts are lighter. its your choice. the problem with a 6 bolt in a 2g is a 2g doesn't have a cam angle sensor and a 6 bolt does. you have to wire it to the computer.

sorry dude. hope things go well.

I think you meant a 1g doesn't have a crank angle sensor and a 2g does.

either way you just wire the crank angle sensor into the cam angle sensor.

just switch to a 1g cam angle sensore if your going with a six bolt block and wire the crank angle sensor to it.

im still stressing that you do a six bolt swap and dont bother trying to rebuild or us another 7bolt.
 
Let's clear up some info.

Both the 1G AND the 2G have both a crank angle sensor and a cam angle sensor. On 2G's, they are split into 2 different sensors. With 1G's they are both housed in the same housing. But in either case, 2 signals are produced for the ECU to process.

95 and 96 have the trigger plate for the cam sensor on the intake cam gear while 97+ has it on passenger side of the intake cam ( in the same location the 1G sensors are in ). IN all 2G's, the crank sensor is triggered off a plate on the crank behind the crank pulley.
 
if a 1g has a crank angle sensor then why dose it run of the cam???????

I'm not trying to argue but wouldn't just be a cam angle sensor that produces two signals.

Ive never heard it called a cam/crank angle sensor

either way the whole two sensor thing is retarded if the crank is not spinning then the cams are not and vise versa unless you have a broken timing belt. And it wouldn't be for very long after a few valves were sitting on top of the pistons
 
tim4g63fast said:
if a 1g has a crank angle sensor then why dose it run of the cam???????

I am sure 1 "?" would suffice.

To answer your question, ask the Mitsu designers. The actual 1G CAS has 2 different triggers that generate 2 distinct signals: a cam position and crank position signal.

tim4g63fast said:
I'm not trying to argue but wouldn't just be a cam angle sensor that produces two signals.

It's a sensor driven by the cam that generates 2 different signal outputs. One that simulates crank position.

tim4g63fast said:
Ive never heard it called a cam/crank angle sensor

either way the whole two sensor thing is retarded if the crank is not spinning then the cams are not and vise versa unless you have a broken timing belt. And it wouldn't be for very long after a few valves were sitting on top of the pistons

Maybe you should have worked for Mitsu designing cars then. Remember that in the 2Gen's they seperated them.

The fact that the 1G CAS outputs both a CAM and CRANK signal is the main reason the Magnus method of a 6-bolt swap works.

Trust me on this one. Or if you don't, read here: http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/article_1g2g.htm
 
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