(HELP!!)Bent Vavles, Head Gasket, or what? Brand new built motor.

[2g 6 bolt swap]

Ok here we go. Motor is fully built and has 0 miles on it. All my aftermarket parts are in my profile. There is too much to list. I got my motor in last weekend and installed everything to spec. For the first start up we had the timing set to 5 degrees advanced and it still sounded like crap. Ran like the timing was off. Double checked timing marks and all were lined up still. Even checked the CAS for being 180 out and it wasnt. After i checked that i looked at the firing order and it was correct. Even tried swap coil wires and it didnt even start. After thinking of what could be wrong i did a compression test and found 0-170-170-170. Even tried a wet comp. test on that cylinder and still noting. I did reuse my mls metal head gasket from last summer that was ran on my car but it was only like for 5 mins.(Cracked ring lands on stock motor thinking it was a headgasket) MLS head gasket sat out soaked in oil for awhile and i took a chance putting it back on and was unsure if i could reuse it. My block was resufed when i had it bored and i had my head check for flatness, which it was. If it was the head gasket wouldnt it get atleast some compression? My buddy was saying i may have bent valves, but my timing was never off. Also it wasnt making any tapping noise or anything when we were timing it. Took my head off to check out my valves and pistons, and found no signs of contact. When i turn my cam gears and the valves sit flush against all the seats and i check the lifters to see if one is stuck open and they all look ok. Any advice would be great. Thanks!

 

[donniekak]

Found this on another site, hope it helps:

Pull the lifter out of the head by hand
Remove all oil from the new lifter - this also applies if you are cleaning and reusing the old lifters. Get a large paperclip and straighten it out. Insert it into the top hole of the lifter until it bottoms, then press on it lightly - you can now easily collapse the lifter with the paperclip still in place. If cleaning and reusing the old lifters:
Submerge the lifter in cleaning solution (brakeparts cleaner, carb cleaner, acetone). Soak it for as long as you can, preferably up to a day or more.
Insert the paperclip, depress the internal valve, and pump the lifter up and down until it moves freely and the fluid coming out is clean.
If you have the time, repeat the above at least one more time.
Remove the lifter, turn it upside down, depress the paperclip, and pump the lifter until no more cleaning fluid comes out. Set the lifter aside to dry for a while.
Submerge the lifter in oil, depress the paperclip, and pump the lifter to fill it with oil.
Remove the lifter, turn it upside down, depress the paperclip, and pump the lifter until no more oil comes out. This will leave a thin film of oil for startup.
The lifters will clatter for a few minutes at startup when empty like this, but that is better than having them too full of oil and bending some valves.
Drop the lifter back in the bore - it doesn't really matter how you line up the oiling holes in the lifter, they rotate under normal use.

A paperclip wont fit in the hole of the old lifters. A medium straight pin works perfect.

 

[2g 6 bolt swap]

Where the lifters slide into there holes. Do those holes have to be near dry of oil when you put them back in after this process?

 

[BogusSVO]

if you bleed down the HLAs and install them in the head with the cams, and fluid test the valve seats.. and they still leak.. I would say the valve tip height is off and needs to be checked and corrected.

 

[2g 6 bolt swap]

If the valve tip height is off how is that even corrected?

 

[BogusSVO]

the valve tip it cut down paralle to the valve face till it is with in spec. Not something that can accuratly at home

 

[2g 6 bolt swap]

Ok i basically tested everything i could so i brought it back to the shop where i have the valves and springs put in.(MAP performance). I'll hopefully know by tomorrow whats is wrong. He said it could be the valve tip height. Which would make sense because when the cams are out all the valves close completely. Then when you put the cams in, those 4 valves are slighty open on the 4th cylinder. So if the valve height is incorrect it will make the cam lobe push the rocker down and cause the valve to not seal. Does that sound right?

 

[6BoltSleeper]

Yes that is correct. Make sure you let us know what it was. Good luck man

 

[BogusSVO]

the base circle of the cam lobe (or the heel of the cam) this is the point the valves are shut so yes that would keep the valves cracked off the seat

 

[2g 6 bolt swap]

Good news guys. It ended up being the valve tip height. It was never check at the machine shop because i only had them put my springs and valves in. So it was a fault on my part for not having the install the cams too, but he should have checked it. Compression tested 170 across the board. Thats for all the help guys.

 

[BogusSVO]

good deal.....

 

[6BoltSleeper]

good to hear man, now go raise hell!