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Heavy Duty Knock!

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91TurboTalonFWD

15+ Year Contributor
258
0
Jun 2, 2007
Fort wayne, Indiana
Ok finally got my tsi started today and the battery was the problem.

on my timing belt side there is a heavy knock and i tried to pull the spark plug wires and the knockin didnt stop so that eliminated some things

the knock is real loud and gets stronger as you rev it up a little bit

before this happend i was driving the car at about 80mph and i heard a bang and like steam blew out from the timing side any ideas?
 
I had kind of the same problem, it turned out that the hydraulic tensioner for the timing belt was bad. I changed it, and it stopped. Have it checked, if it's the tensioner change it ASAP or you might break the belt, jump teeth, and possibly ruin the cylinder head. Anybody correct me if I'm wrong.
 
I can't be sure, but if it's bad the belt would not have enough tension and the timing might be incorrect, so the negine will not work correctly. When mine did the sound, I never rev'd it higher than 3K each gear until I got home about 15 min. and changed it.
 
i dont even drive mine its sitting and im not sure what it is i wonder what the steam was that blew out when i heard the big KNOCK at first the knock was quiter before and now its way louder
 
I think I could have been from the oil inside the tensioner, if it spills oil and it touches a hot surface it will build into steam or smoke. Also check if there's an exhaust leak, that also makes a loud knocking and could also throw smoke. My EGR block plate broke in the middle and it made a loud knock sound until it was replaced. Any other members that can help please!
 
well my car does smoke after a lil bit i figured head gasket but now it could be other things? it couldnt have been oil the steam looked like one of those things you see in the movies he hits the pipe and the steam blows out of it real fast thats how it looked! Casper Talon i appreciate your help but any other members that could help?
 
Have you pulled off the lower timing belt cover and taken a look around to see if anything, such as the water pump, or timing belt tensioners might have given up the ghost?
 
I'm going to have to agree with the timing belt tensioner, as I have seen it happen a few times before.
 
i havent pulled off anything or checked compression thats going to bee my next step the video link posted above the knock isnt like that i dont think its anything in the head i just think its something on the timing belt side leaning more toward the tentioner with the tentioner bad or not working will this cause it to rev up slower and act like it doesnt want to rev up higher?
 
so most likely its the tensioner can anybody tell me where its located and how hard is it to change... ive got another engine in my back yard full longblock could i use the one off of it?
 
The thing that bugs me is the steam that blew out before the knocking started... it wasnt hot steam it wasnt cold could this be the freon from the AC lines? What else could have caused this knowing there was NOTHING leaking under the car
 
Here is a video of when my tensioner was bad on my car. sounded horrible!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ncHEGO6O3t8

The hydrolic tensioner is located under your timing cover on the side of the motor down and to the right of your water pump. Here is a link to what they look like.

http://www.slowboyracing.com/estore/product.php?productid=1876&cat=1097&page=1

Some have different bolt patterns, but I know for a fact that Oreilly's has the tensioner shown in that picture. Mine has a different bolt pattern so I had to order one from slowboy racing. Be careful though.....they have really high shipping charges.

If you don't have a manual for your car.....get one!

To replace the tensioner, you will need to pull all your belts off, pull your water pump pulleys ( 4 10mm bolts ), pull your harmonic balancer ( 4 12mm bolts...leave the large bolt in the middle alone!!!), take off your A/C tensioner ( 3 12mm bolts ), then take off the side motor mount, and remove all the 10mm bolts that hold on to the timing cover. The one under the water pump is a pain in the butt. I have found that once you have the side motor mount out, you can jack up the motor a little bit ensuring you don't dent the oil pan and you can get to these parts a little easier. The hydrolic tensioner is right under the tensioner pulley on the left side. It is held in with 2 12 mm bolts. Before you pull that off, ensure that your timing marks all line up and that your motor is at Top Dead Center (TDC). The best way I can tell that it is all lined up is to go by the balance shaft. Look through the fender well and should see a small belt run from the HB to the balance shaft. The timing mark is to the left of that gear. Line up the arrow with that mark and check your Oil Pump timing alignment. If both match, check your cams. The little dimples around the 17mm bolts in the middle of the cam gears should be facing straight up and the alignment marks should be perfectly level all the way across. Use a straight edge to check those. If all is aligned, remove your tensioner by removing the 2 12mm bolts. Install the new one the same way you took out the old one. Be sure that while you are installing it, you keep in the pin that locks the shaft down. When you have the tensioner secure, you can remove the pin by putting a screw driver through it and pulling it out. Next step.....double check your timing and your timing belt slack. If you feel alot of slack between the cam gears, your timing is probably off a little. You will have to remove the hydrolic tensioner again. That is all on you :p When you have the timing right, put it all back together :)

Hopefully i did not type all that for no reason :p

Enjoy
 
Tim i really reall appreciate your help every time ive had a question you had an answer! The video sounds just like mine mine sounds a little louder but maybe because its a video. When your tentioner was bad did it like not want to rev up high and as you revved it up higher it got louder to the point where you couldnt listen? I have another tentioner off of another block so could i use that? I am going to pull the motor out so this will be alot easier to replace im going to change the head gasket and get some ARPS and hoepfully thats all my problems for now again Tim i really appreciate it!
 
I personally would not reuse a tensioner hydrolic tensioner. The sound actually did go away because the belt hit a sweet spot so that it did not flex as much as when it was at idle. Yours may be a little different. The sound could be through the entire RPM range. I would not rev it up at all since your timing belt could jump time with not enough tension.
 
I guess ill just have to buy a new one then my old one is fine but ill just order a new one and mine stays knocking no sweet spots on mine
 
Well my funds are low right now so the tsi has to wait but when i get my funds right the motors coming out going to replace the tentioner going to get a new headgasket arp studs then when its apart i can inspect the valves and see if they have bent or what not
 
so i went and started my car again today and i drove it in circles doing about 10 or so then i took it in a straight away and hit like 6500-7000 and the noise gets louder like the pulleys were hitting something as if the cover was in the way or a pully bearing bad or something like that any other ideas?
 
<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/6_-L3vw1KZQ"> </param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/6_-L3vw1KZQ" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"> </embed> </object>

CRAPPY VIDEO BUT THE KNOCKING IS COMING FROM THE TIMING SIDE

TENSIONER?
 
Well looks like the timing side has to come apart then in person it sounds more like a knock then in the video only choice i have is to pull the timing covers off and inspect for loose stuff or stuff rubbing thanks Buck!
 
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