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Headgasket blown with pics

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scottyhops

10+ Year Contributor
227
3
Jun 14, 2011
sussex, New Jersey
alright everyone, this is off of my 420a turbo'd 60 trim, so i was running boost at 15psi, then it was acting funny and i realized my coolant was pretty much gone but i didn't notice it smoking. at this time it had brand new oem head bolts, new dowels, cometic mls head gasket.

my questions are did the head gasket get messed up because the head bolts stretched?? i bought arp studs now

also what is this like "balled" stuff on the valves and piston?? I've never seen that seeing I'm only 19 and built the car to 280whp :) but now this came so shooting for more now,

and theres like a fungus looking type in the coolant like what is this??

now for the pics

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this car build is making me all :confused: but when i have it playing with sti on the street I'm like ROFL my fwd is faster, that talk all this talk kids
 

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On the pistons is carbon build up and in the coolant passages is corrosion. This occurs from runnin a low coolant/water mix and or running tap water in system. Also if your running 15psi on a 60 trim what fuel mods do you have. In your profile it says nothing about upgraded pump or injectors or even a wideband.
 
On the pistons is carbon build up and in the coolant passages is corrosion. This occurs from runnin a low coolant/water mix and or running tap water in system. Also if your running 15psi on a 60 trim what fuel mods do you have. In your profile it says nothing about upgraded pump or injectors or even a wideband.

Yeah what he said.... also I see your running a 420awideband which was originally a n/t so did you upgrade to forged pistons and steel bands because if not your going to mess stuff up
 
i should get that thing updated, i have the hahn port fueler, i think its 500cc in the hahn set up and 200cc in the stock injector spots. I'm not really to sure, its how i bought the car with those injectors, 255 fuel pump, I'm going to update my profile asap....but secondly how do you clean the build up and the corrosion?
 
You can soak the piston tops in seafoam over night and it should break everything up. As far as the corrosion just gotta go thru it and break all that crap out. Or take your head to a shop and have it blasted out good. Ok so what I'm really asking is you have a few mods but what do you have to tune/monitor what's going on. You really need at the least a wideband to see the a/f mix. You really should figure out in detail everything inside your car bro, especially if your going to turn up the boost.
 
Yeah what he said.... also I see your running a 420awideband which was originally a n/t so did you upgrade to forged pistons and steel bands because if not your going to mess stuff up

yes wiseco pistons forged and eagle rods

You can soak the piston tops in seafoam over night and it should break everything up. As far as the corrosion just gotta go thru it and break all that crap out. Or take your head to a shop and have it blasted out good. Ok so what I'm really asking is you have a few mods but what do you have to tune/monitor what's going on. You really need at the least a wideband to see the a/f mix. You really should figure out in detail everything inside your car bro, especially if your going to turn up the boost.

Profile updated
 
Did you ever find out where your coolant went? were you burning it or did it leak out?

I am not exactly sure as to were it was leaking. I'm thinking it was the back left corner because apparently that bolt doesn't go tight enough. thats what I'm thinking. I'm going to be bringing the head to the machine shop tomorrow to get it milled and when i fly back from colorado i should have a bunch of boxes so it should all go right together :thumb:
 
I am not exactly sure as to were it was leaking. I'm thinking it was the back left corner because apparently that bolt doesn't go tight enough. thats what I'm thinking. I'm going to be bringing the head to the machine shop tomorrow to get it milled and when i fly back from colorado i should have a bunch of boxes so it should all go right together :thumb:

Which bolt doesn't go tight enough, the head bolt? If so, you need to get that fixed before reinstalling the head or you will be losing coolant again. All the head studs need to be torqued or else there will be a weak spot and leak.
 
Which bolt doesn't go tight enough, the head bolt? If so, you need to get that fixed before reinstalling the head or you will be losing coolant again. All the head studs need to be torqued or else there will be a weak spot and leak.

no no, the bolts go tight enough. But the back left doesn't have the thread deep enough so many 420a cut a little piece off the bolt. also the oem head bolt stretch i guess this is why it won't make a super tight seal but no need to worry anymore arp head studs are going in
 
in that last picture of the combustion chamber.. looks like something came apart before and hit the head.. was that something you did or know about? if not i would look closely at your pistons...SEVERE detontation and preignition will eat up your piston and rings and make them come apart and do this.. i had an 86 mustang that had about 12.5:1 and didnt know it.. tore it apart and found one piston was missing literally a chunk abou 2 1/2 inches long and down to the first ring.. now these were domes that stuck up about 1/2 an inch so thats a HUGE chunk.. gone.. just saying
 
in that last picture of the combustion chamber.. looks like something came apart before and hit the head.. was that something you did or know about? if not i would look closely at your pistons...SEVERE detontation and preignition will eat up your piston and rings and make them come apart and do this.. i had an 86 mustang that had about 12.5:1 and didnt know it.. tore it apart and found one piston was missing literally a chunk abou 2 1/2 inches long and down to the first ring.. now these were domes that stuck up about 1/2 an inch so thats a HUGE chunk.. gone.. just saying

Yupp, unfortunatly thats what the stock piston did when it blew up. its not that deep in person. i might have the machine shop try and mellow it out a little if they can? I'm not sure if that will mess anything up
 
if you clean it up and there are sharp edges then it will create hotspots.. hotspots cause pre-igniton.. that bad.. ha.. shouldnt take much just to smotth them out.. but atleast you know what its from haha

also usually when one cylinder is burning coolant.. the chamber and piston will be cleaner than the rest.. i see that one of you combustion chambers' valves are darker than the rest.. maybe light oil consumption? or a partially stuck injector making it rich? idk
 
I have a DOHC neon and the same thing will happen. The stock head bolts will stretch and the rear left will lift so much that coolant will pass. By getting studs, you fix the problem. Thought I blew the head gasket but, it was fine actually. It was blowing out coolant and oil as mine got real bad.

Going to work on it soon and fix the problem. Re ring it and stud it and put about 100 shot to it. Will be fun since the car weighs about 2100lbs now and had 133 whp before it killed over. :) I had the same goo in the passage ways and will be cleaned by a shop. Make sure to get the head ported and, change valve guides and stem seals on the head. With the turbo you are running, you can get 300+ with those simple mods to the head. Porting does wonders on these heads.

At a minimum, gasket match them.
 
I have a DOHC neon and the same thing will happen. The stock head bolts will stretch and the rear left will lift so much that coolant will pass. By getting studs, you fix the problem. Thought I blew the head gasket but, it was fine actually. It was blowing out coolant and oil as mine got real bad.

Going to work on it soon and fix the problem. Re ring it and stud it and put about 100 shot to it. Will be fun since the car weighs about 2100lbs now and had 133 whp before it killed over. :) I had the same goo in the passage ways and will be cleaned by a shop. Make sure to get the head ported and, change valve guides and stem seals on the head. With the turbo you are running, you can get 300+ with those simple mods to the head. Porting does wonders on these heads.

At a minimum, gasket match them.

I knew there was something to it like that, and I'm going to drop my head off at the machine shop tomorrow to have the 3rd cylinder mellowed out where it detonated. and I'm having the head milled so it will work with the mls gasket. After i get back from colorado i have to order up about $50 in gaskets intake exhaust turbo etc.. and she will go back together and i hope she is gonna be a good girl this time :banghead:
 
I knew there was something to it like that, and I'm going to drop my head off at the machine shop tomorrow to have the 3rd cylinder mellowed out where it detonated. and I'm having the head milled so it will work with the mls gasket. After i get back from colorado i have to order up about $50 in gaskets intake exhaust turbo etc.. and she will go back together and i hope she is gonna be a good girl this time :banghead:

Good luck with it. Even the stock block/pistons/rods are rated around 333 crank hp which is around 300 whp. Careful with that kind of power and get a good bobble strut as wheel hop, even at speed, will kill your cv joint too. You could break an axel as well.

I would, also, have the valve guides evaluated...especially the exhaust ones. Replace the stem seals too as they are cheap to do. Lastly, make sure you did not fry a ring or 2 as well. With the rebuild, should have good power when it is running again. :) may not get an sti off the line but, you can pass them pretty easily once you get going. :)
 
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