Having problem after 14b swap in 2g please help!

[egen223]

hi the situation is i just swapped a 14b td05 MIH turbo in my 1996 eclipse gst
i checked for the leak and everything was fine
but the car choke at idle and stall
when i pull the maf sensor out it idle normally but i can't go anywhere
so please if somone have done the turbo swap
what should i do next? i'm kinda stuck here
please reply i really do appriciate it

i'm using stock injector stock ecu stock fuel pump
upgrades are fmic, type s bov, and 3" catback exhaust

 

[93Lzr]

Are you recirculating? Could be running rich if not.

 

[egen223]

I'm guessing something is wrong with the maf sensor plug?

im recirculating

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

I'm guessing something is wrong with the maf sensor plug?

im recirculating

Does anything look wrong? Maybe the rubber got pinched messing up good connection. What all did you mess with?

 

[egen223]

it's actually idle fine the moment i reset the battery but after like 2 mins, the engine warmed up and it start idling rough and shut off again really weird

is there some source i can go with to get rid of this such as SAFC?

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Does it idle rough cut off and not start for a few? If the problem is a bad MAF maybe you could do that but I've never used one so couldn't be sure.

 

[clipto]

14b swap is easy just need coolant line and oil feed and drain line. They only things that would cause idle issues after the install are boost leaks and is your bov recirculated? Double check that all reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery and see what happens from there.

 

[eclipsyco]

^^^^ +1 sounds like a massive leak somewhere, double check unhook and and put everything back together if it's necessary as long as you didn't touch anything else.
Also the turbo is everything hooked up correctly the lines, the boost controller, etc?

 

[MHuddy1213]

deffinatly sounds like a boost leak also did you set the BOV right to the vacume pressure and have you done a BLT?

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

^^^^ +1 sounds like a massive leak somewhere, double check unhook and and put everything back together if it's necessary as long as you didn't touch anything else.
Also the turbo is everything hooked up correctly the lines, the boost controller, etc?

Boost leaks,are leaks under boost. His car idles good for,a, few then messes up when its warm. I ran a 9.9 1/8th with a coupler split half,way around I don't think his issue is a boost leak.

Op any CEL? MAF plug isn't messed up? & again when it cuts off will it start back up or do you have to wait to start it agsin?

 

[MHuddy1213]

the feeling he is saying feels like hitting a wall which is caused from fuel cut which is more cases than any caused from boost leaks due to the MAS reading a sertant amount of air going into the turbo then the turbo pushing harder to meet the requirements the engine is asking for but most is leaking out before it reaches the manifold and the MAS is reaching a high volume of air going into the motor but in all its not which is why most are saying boost leak and seeing as how he just installed the turbo and this happened he may have left something loose

if you have a MAF translator (i believe not sure about this though so dont scream at me if im wrong ) and speed density it wont read the same and you are less prone to fuel cut

that may be confusing how i put it if it is ill rewrite it if it is i did it quick

 

[jeber21]

sounds like you should replace the maf sensor if that doesnt work than maybe it might be your fuel pump fuel filter just an idea

 

[egen223]

thanks for the replies guys, the problem caused it was boost leaking from the turbo to the j pipe

 

[MHuddy1213]

glad you fixed the problem man

 

[ed1380]

14b swap is easy just need coolant line and oil feed and drain line. They only things that would cause idle issues after the install are boost leaks and is your bov recirculated? Double check that all reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery and see what happens from there.

I would just delete the coolant lines. You'll be perfectly fine without them, and it's so much cleaner under the hood.



As for the OP it sounds like a vacuum leak or a bad maf. Do a boost leak test and try to borrow someone's maf

 

[egen223]

i deleted the water line also, it's running great pull harder than the t25, just spool a lil slower than the t25 but pull better and high end

 

[clipto]

I would just delete the coolant lines. You'll be perfectly fine without them, and it's so much cleaner under the hood.



As for the OP it sounds like a vacuum leak or a bad maf. Do a boost leak test and try to borrow someone's maf

I dare you to run a 14b or 16g and see how long it last with the coolant lines blocked off.

Boost leaks,are leaks under boost. His car idles good for,a, few then messes up when its warm. I ran a 9.9 1/8th with a coupler split half,way around I don't think his issue is a boost leak.

Boosts leak can happen at idle,cruise, and boost. Try removing a intercooler pipe and run your car u will run pig rich unless you have something like SD.

 

[ed1380]

I dare you to run a 14b or 16g and see how long it last with the coolant lines blocked off.




Boosts leak can happen at idle,cruise, and boost. Try removing a intercooler pipe and run your car u will run pig rich unless you have something like SD.

Currently have a 14b with no coolant lines, and a 16g in the garage waiting to be installed. No coolant lines on that either. And when I have my manifold I'll put on the HX35 under my bed. You guessed it no coolant lines. You know why? Because they've been deleted. I couldn't hook them up if i wanted to.

No coolant lines on a turbo is perfectly fine. You just let it cool down after a hard run, and if you're in a hurry you use a turbo timer

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

I dare you to run a 14b or 16g and see how long it last with the coolant lines blocked off.




Boosts leak can happen at idle,cruise, and boost. Try removing a intercooler pipe and run your car u will run pig rich unless you have something like SD.

Haha true and yeah I've blown my pipes off before I know what it does just didn't think from what he said that it was his problem. I was, wrong

 

[MHuddy1213]

why dont you guys not running coolant line read this and rethink your whole process Water Cooled turbos - They need water!

 

[ed1380]

How does water-cooling extend turbo life? - "Heat soakback" is a major turbo killer and must be taken seriously by turbocharger engineers and turbo users alike. This damaging heat originates in the exhaust system. During hard usage, high exhaust gas temperatures dump massive amounts of heat into the exhaust manifold, turbine housing, and turbine wheel. These components are designed to handle very high temperatures through careful design and materials selection. However, some of this stored heat will want to naturally make its way into the less-heat-tolerant center housing, bearing system and shaft of the turbocharger through conduction, since these components are all in contact with one another. While the engine is running and oil is flowing through the turbo's bearing system, most of the transferred heat will be absorbed by the oil, preventing damage to the bearings and oil seals.

Once the engine is shut down, the oil flow stops and so does the exhaust gas flow through the turbine – but all of that heat stored by the exhaust manifold and turbine housing still remains. This heat must go somewhere. Its only escape paths are either to be transferred via conduction into the turbo's center section and the exhaust downpipe, or to radiate into the surrounding air under the hood. A small amount of heat will be transferred to the surrounding air via radiation and convection, but the great majority will conduct from the turbine housing into the center housing, since the center housing is at a lower temperature. Additionally, some of the heat will travel from the turbine wheel into the shaft and out towards the bearing system. During this phase of turbine & exhaust cool down, as the heat is "soaking back" into the turbo's center section, the temperatures of the center housing, oil seal, bearings and any oil remaining in the turbo are all elevated above the normal operating temperatures that occurred while the engine was running, since the oil flow is no longer available to carry heat away

There's no need to worry about that during normal driving.


I do agree that YES the water helps reduce heat in the turbo, but it's been proven that by letting it cool down is effective to the point that the bulkiness of water cooling is not worth it.

 

[MHuddy1213]

yes you can run less boost or simply hook up the water lines boost more enjoy the turbo and save money on a turbo timer just my opinion

 

[ed1380]

I just looked at my HX35 and it looks like the engineers that spend hundreds of hours designing a 60lb/min turbo for use in commercial vehicles forgot to water cool it. I'll be sure to send an email to holset right away

 

[MHuddy1213]

thats an HX35 not a 16g

 

[ed1380]

exactly!!!! it flows almost 2x as much as a 16g. It's used in commercial vehicles that are loaded for longer periods of time