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Gt28rs "disco potato" For road course

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Nope. Justin is correct. I honestly have no idea why everyone started calling it that after the article came out. It was rather stupid
 
Just curious... What's so hard to believe about a small frame ball bearing turbo haveing amazing transient response?

Simply because they don't seem to spool that fast in general.

On another note, I believe the owner of that sentra was the one who talked Garrett into putting that wheel combination together specifically for the car.
 
Thanks for all of the advice so far. It's really helping me out. What are your thoughts on doing an EFR6258 for our cars?

I think EFR's on DSM's are pretty scarce. What's wrong with a standard E3 16g? I don't see that being laggy on a road course at all, as long as your gear selection is where it needs to be. Also, if you're looking for a billet 16g, here at MAP we have done a few EF1's for DSM's, which people seem to have great success with. It would be a spendy venture I would imagine, to slap an EFR on your car, why not just stick with something proven to work great on our cars, that is bolt on?
 
I honestly don't have a ton of experience with them, but from dynos they don't seem to reach max boost that fast.

I had a GT2560R on my SR20, and while it was nice and responsive, it wasn't really anything to get excited about. It definitely left me wanting sometimes. I don't see how a larger version could be much better. I much prefer the feeling of a big 16G or a twin-scroll HX35.

Here's an example of the 2871R:

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Looks really similar to Mr. Peepers dyno of an HX35, except it makes more power everywhere and the HX35 is a 55lb/min turbo...

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Now the 2860RS does spool quite a bit sooner, but runs out of steam at a mere 36lb/min:

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Now I know dyno's don't show everything and it's dumb to compare dynos and whatnot and blah blah blah, but they just don't impress me that much. Take it with a pinch of salt I guess.
 

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I've driven a 14b, 16g, big16g, EvoIII16g, L1R, GT10, 50-trim, PTE GT30R, and FP3052 on a road course. I too used to think that I wanted the quickest spooling best transient response turbo I could find. I was wrong.

As went to bigger and laggier turbos my lap times dropped. And they kept dropping...and dropping. In the last couple of years I've been able to drive the same car with a L1R, GT10, and GT30R turbos. All at Watkins Glen. The L1R and GT10 are both 44lb turbos. The GT30R's were faster. Sure I could make more boost down low with the smaller turbos but the bigger turbos were faster around the track. Your butt might tell you that small turbo with its spike in Hp and torque down low are great but the laps times don't support that. The bigger turbos, even though were not full spooled, were still making nearly as much power as the smaller turbos and up top there is no comparison.

On top of the obvious power advantage bigger turbo's have they tend to make, pound for pound, less heat then there smaller counterparts. This gets even more pronounced when you turn up the wick on say the 16g to get it to rip. Now your intercooler is working overtime.

The fastest turbo I've used on a road course has been the FP3052. Its faster then the PTE30R I am using now because the exhaust is a little bigger. Mine spools up a touch quicker but the bigger turbo wins out again. I would love to send this PTE turbo in and have it converted to a HTA3076 with the FP housing. Or I might just follow my own advice and move onto the GT35R.

Bottom line is I spend most of my time on a race track well over 3K rpms so why would I need a turbo that spools any quicker then 4k anyway? And I've driven a lot of tracks like Watkins Glen, Road America, Mid Ohio, Sebring etc.. Unless its an autocross go big.
 
Those dyno graphs don't show boost recovery, which is what auto x guys really need, and some road coarse guys look for. I still fail you see you're point. Oh, well, to each their own I guess.

GreenGSX, what compression ratio do you run, and how much you to feel higher compression helps with off boost power in a road race?

I know we are getting a little off topic here, but still interesting none the less.
 
I think a more important question here is are you "road racing" or doing SCCA solo/solo II? Parking lot cone racing (solos) are the only places i can think that you'd worry about spool in thta RPM range in racing. If you're not "in your power band" your not driving the car right and no matter what turbo you have you're not going to be very high on the placement postings...

I'd honestly choose a larger turbo with more efficient flow at your desired HP level (also base decision on classes you want to run though too, since some only allow stock apearing or stock turbos and others thta allow this changed will put you against people with more power than the gt28 can put out either way)

I think a bolt on HX35 would be a really good road race turbo..I use to work on porsche club cars and they ither ran stock turbos for those classes or they went with the larger To4e wheels mated with small turbine housings and wheels for out of corner response, but it's all decided by class, you're either gonna need a 16g or something capable of much more than either the 16g or gt28rs if you want to be in a class that would allow you to change to a non stock turbo
 
Since I am not in the know on tech specs, I want to ask, What do you guys think of the the FP old school red if i remember correctly, becuase I read it about 2 weeks ago, it said it was a direct bolt DSM frame made FP red, My plan was to build a road course or time attack next summer. what are your thoughts on that turbo? Does anyone have any experience with this turbo on their DSM? I know that my buddy was running a red on his EVOVIII and it was pretty sick. I drove that car, and the spool was really fast.


Sorry to sort of thread jack, but it also seems to pretain to your question as well, OP.
 
Since I am not in the know on tech specs, I want to ask, What do you guys think of the the FP old school red if i remember correctly, becuase I read it about 2 weeks ago, it said it was a direct bolt DSM frame made FP red, My plan was to build a road course or time attack next summer. what are your thoughts on that turbo? Does anyone have any experience with this turbo on their DSM? I know that my buddy was running a red on his EVOVIII and it was pretty sick. I drove that car, and the spool was really fast.


Sorry to sort of thread jack, but it also seems to pretain to your question as well, OP.

The FP Red is a 600HP turbo. The GT2860rs is a ~300HP turbo. The spool characteristics will be totally different.
 
The FP Red is a 600HP turbo. The GT2860rs is a ~300HP turbo. The spool characteristics will be totally different.

The old FP DSM Red is a laggy, drag-only turbo. Poor choice for a type of racing that demands quick spool.


OK just wondering cause the Red that was on my buddies evo seemed like it would do very well and I had just wondered If they might be the same. thanks though:D
 
OK just wondering cause the Red that was on my buddies evo seemed like it would do very well and I had just wondered If they might be the same. thanks though:D

The EVO Red is a completely different turbo - billet HTA wheel with far more efficient aero, more modern turbine wheel, twin scroll turbine housing, and possibly ball bearing depending on how old it is. FP does make a new equivalent HTA Red in a DSM bolt-on housing, though, which the sell along with the old school 60-1 Red.
 
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