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Gst won't run after rebuild

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awzer2

10+ Year Contributor
255
0
Nov 4, 2009
palm desert, California
Ughhhhh....okay..

I picked up this 98 *eww* automatic.. Gst
Fer 500 Bucks!
Just had tags from 09'..
It had a blown head gasket and overheating issues.
soo... I replaced the head gasket intake gasket water pump,Wp gasket,pulleys tensioner belts blah blah blah... head bolts... new thermostat.resurfaced head... new cams.... rollers.... springs..valves ...oil squirters...... yadda yadaa..

Anyways! I throw a battery in the car and try to crank it over but it does not seem to ignite or run for that matter...the poor ol' car just cranks and cranks and cranks.
i cranked it till the battery died.

I made sure ALL the clips were connected,re did the timing just in case.the whole shi-bang. what could it be? i replaced the oil and a new filter,filled it up with some coolant and we just installed a thermostat which it never had. was i not supposed to add coolant yet? LOL

When i crank it over the it seems like it ignites then stops.we checked the spark plug wires and they're all getting spark. i looked down at the cylinder head through the plug hole and there seems to be a tiny layer of gasoline on the head which i assume is normal. i checked the spark plugs and the very tip up to where the threads begin had a thin layer of fuel on them.


The questions i have are..

Is it possible the spark plugs went out?

does it matter how the internal cylinder/blade for the cps is installed on the cam?

would the timing cause the car to completely not turn on?

could it be a fuel related problem?

what things could i check to fix my problem?

Heres what my bay looks like now for fun...
Please ignore the duct tape its temp,
and I tried polishin' the valve cover LOL.
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Thanks guys.
 

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Check your Crank Angle Sensor =)

Thats what mine was doing, i rebuilt my motor; and totally had the sensor upside down.. the trigger plate wasnt running inbetween the sensors prongs..

i flipped it upside down cranked it right now but to no avail!
even tried it rightside up!
:( did it need to be top dead center? because i doubt it.
and were talkin about the little blades inside this housing right??
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is it supposed to be calibrated?
or rotated?
 
Is it possible the spark plugs went out?

possibly. pull the plugs and check to see if they are fouled. see:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/reading_spark_plugs.jpg
...for a visual to compare your plugs to.


would the timing cause the car to completely not turn on?

yes, both valve and ignition timing can cause the motor not to start.


could it be a fuel related problem?

since the car is turning over, have a friend smell the exhaust. if you can smell unburnt fuel, then the fuel system is most likely fine.
 
possibly. pull the plugs and check to see if they are fouled. see:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/reading_spark_plugs.jpg
...for a visual to compare your plugs to.




yes, both valve and ignition timing can cause the motor not to start.




since the car is turning over, have a friend smell the exhaust. if you can smell unburnt fuel, then the fuel system is most likely fine.

Okay thanks for your response , i'll go over these things tomorrow afternoon.
pretty anxious right now the car has been down for about 2 months,using up driveway space.

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i dont think my timings the culprit,mine looks exactly like this. along with the other marks at the oil pump sprocket crank sprocket and that other sprocket above.
 

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i flipped it upside down cranked it right now but to no avail!
even tried it rightside up!
:( did it need to be top dead center? because i doubt it.
and were talkin about the little blades inside this housing right??
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is it supposed to be calibrated?
or rotated?


Thats not what im talking about... thats your cam angle sensor..
You have a "CRANK POSITION SENSOR" as well, that bolts onto your frontcase/oil pump.. and is a little pronged like sensor that lets is a MUST to get your car to turn over...

I had ALL of the same signs as you when my engine rebuild wouldn't start... and this is what fixed it..

Thats your crank sensor.. chances are, ether your crank angle sensor is shot.. (which is easy to do .. i broke one and they are pretty expensive) or you don't have the trigger plate inbetween the Crank sensor's prongs... (the circular blade on the crank pulley)

(crank sensor)
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(trigger plate)
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(You can see the trigger plate has a 2 parts that stick out further, it runs THRU the crank sensor and makes your motor turn over.)

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OHHHHH sorry about that duhh,i never made sure to see if it was correctly on there... LOL my sensors plastic shielding is pretty much toast its not even there . luckily i have another brand new one sitting on my spare engine. would you know anything about that cps blade?

FYI, that picture of the cam gears doesn't help us as we can't verify the dowel pins are at 12 o'clock.

sorry,yeah they're facing straight up and i checked it with a straight edge before removing the tensioner pin.
 
Last edited:
OHHHHH sorry about that duhh,i never made sure to see if it was correctly on there... so its supposed to look exactly like it is in the picture? my sensors plastic shielding is pretty much toast its not even there . luckily i have another brand new one sitting on my spare engine. how should it be installed? and would you know anything about that cps blade?


Bro, im pretty sure thats your culprit. ;) i stept on mine and didnt notice i broke it till i put it on the motor. (the plastic piece was ALSO off)

Your gonna haveta remove the timing belt .. and its held down by two screws.. and connects to the wiring harness..

I can't stress this enough, make sure your "TRIGGER PLATE" is in between the "PRONGS OF THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR" I didn't and had that was only thing stopping my motor from turning over..
 
Bro, im pretty sure thats your culprit. ;) i stept on mine and didnt notice i broke it till i put it on the motor. (the plastic piece was ALSO off)

Your gonna haveta remove the timing belt .. and its held down by two screws.. and connects to the wiring harness..

I can't stress this enough, make sure your "TRIGGER PLATE" is in between the "PRONGS OF THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR" I didn't and had that was only thing stopping my motor from turning over..
ahh shit... haaha mine broke because i ripped the old timing cover and it happened to have smacked the plastic right off.

But damn are you kidding me? that timing belt is a s.o.b i have done it like 12 times already.

Is it to get to the trigger plate? is that why were removing the belt?

But yeah hopefully it IS the culprit. I want to drive this bad boy! heh heh
 
ahh shit... haaha mine broke because i ripped the old timing cover and it happened to have smacked the plastic right off.

But damn are you kidding me? that timing belt is a s.o.b i have done it like 12 times already.

Is it to get to the trigger plate? is that why were removing the belt?

But yeah hopefully it IS the culprit. I want to drive this bad boy! heh heh

Honestly man, i totally forget, .. O wait ! nevermind i remember, you haveta run the CPS underneath the timing belt, if you look at the picture.. you can follow the wire underneath the timing belt...:ohdamn:
 
Make sure the 3 triangle plugs are in the correct location.


16g-95GSX said:
Without reading everything above, be sure that the coil pack harness, which is a three wire harness, is plugged in correctly. On our cars there are three triangular plugs that are interchangeable in that general location, AC, Coil pack, and crank position sensor. On a 2g the crank position sensor harness colors are black, blue with white stripe, and red. The coil pack harness colors are black with white stripe, blue with black stripe, and blue with red stripe. The ac harness colors are black with white stripe, green with red stripe, and white with green stripe. The car will crank but not fire injectors or coils if the coil and crank harnesses etc are interchanged.
 
Honestly man, i totally forget, .. O wait ! never mind i remember, you haveta run the CPS underneath the timing belt, if you look at the picture.. you can follow the wire underneath the timing belt...:ohdamn:

Yeah that's what i was thinking. You mean the CAS right?
but okay I'll check it out tomorrow and post back up here if it seems to be the problem.
 
ull get it, i know your excited to get her back up. but not worth rushin stuff!
just post up on here tomorrow ill be on.

*********UPDATE!:D:rocks:

It was the CPS ,i totally forgot to install the BOLT that secures the CPS BLADE inside the housing.

It was floating around inside the housing everytime we cranked it and the magnet inside the cps didnt sense the blade spinning.

after that i also checked the spark plug cables and only one arced.
I drove out to autozone and picked up some ngks then placed the cables in the correct order and boom engine fired right up and sounds pretty smooth .
No more white and blue smoke!! :D
It has a little misfire though due to bad cables and cross firing but some new ones should clear that up along with a radiator flush ,hopefully.

Right now it overheats pretty easily the thermostat is working correctly but the fan is not turning on i suspect a rusty clip or bad fuse or faulty sensor.

it spitting coolant out.

what should be next?
if that fan was working would i have this issue?
and would over heating cause the engine to run rich?
 
*********UPDATE!:D:rocks:

It was the CPS ,i totally forgot to install the BOLT that secures the CPS BLADE inside the housing.

It was floating around inside the housing everytime we cranked it and the magnet inside the cps didnt sense the blade spinning.

after that i also checked the spark plug cables and only one arced.
I drove out to autozone and picked up some ngks then placed the cables in the correct order and boom engine fired right up and sounds pretty smooth .
No more white and blue smoke!! :D
It has a little misfire though due to bad cables and cross firing but some new ones should clear that up along with a radiator flush ,hopefully.

Right now it overheats pretty easily the thermostat is working correctly but the fan is not turning on i suspect a rusty clip or bad fuse or faulty sensor.

it spitting coolant out.

what should be next?
if that fan was working would i have this issue?
and would over heating cause the engine to run rich?


Glad i told you that it was the CPS.. Love how dsmers have same problems! :p:thumb:

I believe your fan is a fuse/relay or w.e.. check that out.. it should kick on. narrow that out first man, if your still overheating then we will move on from there. . also im not to sure if it cause the engine to run rich.
 
Your gonna haveta remove the timing belt .. and its held down by two screws.. and connects to the wiring harness.

I know this issue is resolved.
When I had crank walk I was replacing the crank sensor often. I got to the point where I could replace it without removing the wheel or even doing timing. If the timing cover is off there is enough room to wiggle the sensor around after it is unbolted and unplugged to get it to come out. I could replace one in under 10min.
The sensor does fit under the timing belt if you do it correctly.

Just for some of you that might have to do it and don't want to remove the timing belt.
 
Glad i told you that it was the CPS.. Love how dsmers have same problems! :p:thumb:

I believe your fan is a fuse/relay or w.e.. check that out.. it should kick on. narrow that out first man, if your still overheating then we will move on from there. . also im not to sure if it cause the engine to run rich.

i know man you were right! :D

but man! i suck at electrical !
where would it be? it wont even kick on.
it runs for a good 10 minutes and drives for about 3 minutes then overheats and spits up fluid.

i wonder why its running rich :/ what can that be?

check this out too....<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/v0kcetyHF0s" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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