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GST Not Running Right After Rebuild

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96eclipzGsT

10+ Year Contributor
364
2
Aug 12, 2009
Canton, Georgia
Okay so I have a 96 GST that was running great, but motor went because of crankwalk. Since then I have completely rebuilt the motor with CP pistons, eagle crank and rods, the whole nine yards. I also went for a 20g turbo. Now since I have it back together I have the boost set at 7psi for now until I can figure out what is going on. It doesn't start building boost until around 4000RPM, which seems kind of crazy. The head also seems to get very hot, it never overheats, but after running for a while you can pretty much boil water on it. I didn't have any boost leaks before the rebuild.
 
Is the 20g internally gated? If so, the wg flapper might be hung open partially and you might need to shim the actuator.

Do you have a heat shield on the exh mani? I believe 2gs operating temp is about 205* which will just about boil water. Do you know what the actual coolant temp is?
 
fill out your mods list in your profile... doesnt sound like there is anything wrong with your car besides maybe a bad tune.. it would help if we knew all of what you have on your car. i really hope you didnt just throw on a 20g and try to get away with it....
 
Things done when rebuilt.

Complete machine work including head
bored .30 over
eagle crank, rods
arp main, head studs
melling oil pump
topline gaskets, water pump
goodyear timing belt
balance shafts removed
cp pistons
20g turbo
2.5 exhaust no cat

I accidentally started it without the heat shield on and it melted the dipstick in about 60 sec.
I now have the heat shield on with a metal dipstick.

The temp gauge stays at it normal spot around 210.

It actually runs worse than it did before I rebuilt it. I'm thinking about getting rid of the 20g and going for a 16g.
 
Is the 20g internally gated? If so, the wg flapper might be hung open partially and you might need to shim the actuator.

Do you have a heat shield on the exh mani? I believe 2gs operating temp is about 205* which will just about boil water. Do you know what the actual coolant temp is?


It is internally gated. I remember it sealing good when putting it on, but also remember having to move the actuator a little to clear the fan shroud so it is kind of at an angle. It is something I will check to make sure.

I new a 20g would have more lag, but for it to start spooling between 4000 and 4500 rpm is crazy. It also builds incredibly slow. You never hear it spool right.
 
Maybe it's because your running such low boost on a turbo meant for higher boost. I would have waited till you got the supporting mods for it before you bolted it on. I do respect you though for only running it at 7psi. Do you have a smaller turbo that you can bolt on till you get the supporting mods?
 
I didn't have any boost leaks before the rebuild.
What does that have to do with post-rebuild? And I agree with most people, that sounds about right for a 20g. Do you have DSMlink, an EGT gauge, wide-band, logger? Are your timing marks correct? Anything that could help us point you in the right direction?
 
Maybe it's because your running such low boost on a turbo meant for higher boost. I would have waited till you got the supporting mods for it before you bolted it on. I do respect you though for only running it at 7psi. Do you have a smaller turbo that you can bolt on till you get the supporting mods?

My other turbo had a lot of end play and I was scared to put it back on. I turned the boost up to 12psi for a short time and it doesn't help at all. Still the slow spool. All the timing marks are lined up perfect. It idles fine, no check engine light and doesn't miss at all. I don't have any data loggers, tuners, egt right now, but am working on that. I do have a wideband air/fuel that reads correct. Its not running rich or lean.
 
This is also work in progress. I still have a ton of stuff to get, but needed to get it back running for the moment. I didn't want to turn up the boost or anything until I get the fuel pump, injectors etc. which should be soon. I just think it should run much better than it does right now. It won't even pull a hill, I have to downshift to like 3rd to keep it from losing speed.
 
Will the wrong plugs make the head run hot? It has NGK plugs in it, but not sure which ones, guess I need to take a look.

Just kind of worried about the hotness of the motor because when it blew before the rebuild the exhaust manifold was glowing red.
 
Would like to add that the 20g turbo I got from a relative that lives in Colorado. I live in Atlanta. He also sent me the fabricated o2 housing etc. to bolt up to stock downpipe. It looks like this turbo is some crap off brand thats why I was thinking of just getting a new 16g. Any recommendations you guys have would be great.
 
Well I had a massive boost leak under the BOV. Guess I should have looked it over in the daytime instead of 3 in the morning. Now I have to get the rest of the parts so I can turn the boost up. I have it at 12, but need to get new BOV, FMIC for more.
 
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