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Ground Control coil-overs

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fourreGsixty3

15+ Year Contributor
1,810
34
Feb 4, 2006
Essex, Connecticut
Ok, Ive searched through most of the threads containing anything about coil-overs, and it didnt awnser my question fully. Im going to be buying a set of GCs, and was wondering if they come with struts? Anyone who bought them could you tell me what they came with. Also if they dont come with the struts, Im going to get Koni Yellows, anyone have any feed back on that set-up? Also could you give me a little feed back on what you thought of the set-up like did the handle improve? Can you feel every bump in the road?
Thanks for any help in advance,
-Dustin
 
GC's do not come with struts. What they are is a sleeve and spring which provide the ability for height adjustability. Further more I believe you have to specify which strut you will be using with the GC as they are not all universal.

Koni/GC is a very popular combination and provides the capability to change springs with different rates in the future as they use 2.5" ID springs. I cannot provide any feedback as I'm still on stock suspension, but I believe using the search ability would provide you with more than ample threads:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/search.php?searchid=2029878
 
I am using GCs with KYB AGX adjustables. Even with the struts turned all the way down the ride it a little rough, so if you are one of those that wants good handling but, you want it to ride like a Cadillac, then this is not an option. I like the rought stiff feeling, and when you turn up the struts it handles like a dream.
 
I am not looking for a cadi ride, I dont mind feeling all the bumps in the road. Thanks for the help guys. Will I need to buy anything else for the GCs other then struts? Do I need to take any componants off my current stock set-up to use them or just buy the GCs and Koni's and good to go? And formontoya, why do you say the Illumina's are better for this app. then the Koni's? Oh yeah and Asian312, it says "sorry, no matchs" on that link thats what I kept getting or the threads involved people saying get the GCs they are the cheapest and thats the end of it, no input on what set-up they are using or how it rides, or how it feels with that set-up, and thats what I was looking for.
Thanks for the help guys
 
I also have the CG front upper mounts. They allow more shock travel than with the OEM mounts which is nice since you have more weight in front. The Konis are just a little harsher at their lowest setting respectively. But that's just me, I don't want to be beaten to hell for the daily drive. I also have the Energy Suspension Hyperflex bushings, which make the ride even harsher, so I need the extra "softness" at the lower settings to compensate.

Your call.
 
Ahh my apologies, the search links are not static. If you do a search for ground control and set it to title only you should get some hits that may help out more. Only reason I say this is because suspension is something I'm in the market for and I've been feverishly reading up on it. It's out there, just need to know where to look.

You may also want to hit up www.vfaq.com as they have a 1G install, but using KYB GR2s. Should give you a hint on how everything goes together.
 
doesn't really matter because Tokico doesn't make 1G shocks. you're choices are basically KYB or Koni
Thanks for the info Mark.

CG front upper mounts
Where can you purchase those from?
Energy Suspension Hyperflex bushings, which make the ride even harsher
Im getting the full FWD energy bushing kit from RRE, and I dont mind a little harshness on this ride because yeah its my DD, but Im use to cars with rough suspensions as my mom has a mini cooper S, and my dad has a Jeep SRT-8( rides rather smooth for being lowered and on 20s, but still rough).
Thanks for the help, info, and input guys
 
RamenPride said:
doesn't really matter because Tokico doesn't make 1G shocks. your choices are basically KYB or Koni


Damn....I didn't snap he's a 1G.

I got the upper mount from GC, but they were a 2G thing...I don't even see them on their site anymore either. Although they do have the camber plates with spherical bearings on their site, but they don't look like they do any lowering similar to the mounts I purchased. But then again, I bought my setup in 99.

Sorry for the confusion on my part.
 
I didn't like the springs that came with GC kit and I've wound up swapping mine. I just found myself riding the bumpstops too much because of the decreased suspension travel. And I'm not very low either. My setup is AGX struts and the springs are 8" 400 lbs in front and 7" 350 lbs in rear with RRE front camber plates. So while it's decidedly on the rough riding side, it handles well at track days.

It may be worth your time into checking if you can spec the springs when ordering from GC.
 
thanks for the info guys, its ok FORMONTOYA, Ill keep searching and see if I can come up with something the 1Gs thats like what your talking about.

Dustin
 
I've had mine on my car for almost a month now. GC/AGX combo. I've only had the 'bind' issue on my front driver side. I got 375/f and 325/r. Ride isn't really harsh. You do feel more of the bumps though. One issue I ran into is that I can't lower my fronts as low as the back. And they are sitting on the bumpstops all the time at the height that I've set them.

Performance wise, AMAZING. Yeah, probably not as amazing as the one piece set-ups like JIC or Tein, but still, from stock to this was amazing.

If you're planning on ordering, call 'em up. Ask for Stan, mention my name. Kevin Winchester. He's great a setting up the right rates for your use. He told me that pushing the rates up to 400 is really pushing the performance of the AGX. Go with koni's if you're looking for higher rates. But for me, 375/325 is very streetable.

2 points of advice though. Get some PB blaster and hit every bolt that you'd need to remove. Do it everynight up until the install. I was done with every corner excpet for the drivers front. Took me a good 4 hours and an air hammer to get out the lower of the two mounting bolts. Also, try and find something else to replace your front bumpstops. Even cutting them like the vfaq says doesn't give you a lot of room to work with. Hope that helps.
 
Ok this isn't directed towards the GCs anymore, just didnt want to start up a similar thread. I found these JICs for my fwd>>> http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=2457&, for some reason I never clicked on the JIC coil-overs in SBR, kinda stupid of me. I remember reading a while ago, a post with people loving these and hating them, and few that thought they were pretty good but could have been better. Well the price is right in my range, I want a good race set-up suspension, super tight, front and rear strut bars, 8-point cage, these JICs(depending on review from people with them), front lower stress bar from RRE, RREs fwd full urethane bushing kit, motor mounts, nice set of sticky azenis rt-615s(235s/40r/17), and a set of gram light 57s-pro rims. I would be keeping these at stock height for DD around town(not the best paved roads, and steep entrances into parking lots on main stripe), and stiffening up the rear end and soften the front for days at the track (drag, but need good suspension for spirited runs through winding roads out side of town).

Dustin
 
I believe people refer to two different setups of JIC coilovers. There are your generic off the wall units and then there is the custom set from Mueller from RRE. I'm not sure what exactly is different about RRE's setup (spring rates, valving, etc.) but I know those specifically people have raved about.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/jicinfo.htm

To throw another wrench in to the mix there's also other high end setups by Hot Bits.
 
Yeah I know all about the Hot Bits, and other high end suspensions like whiteline, ect.... They make them for 1Gs....but only awd, which Im not:( but I love my fwd TSi. Ill check out that set from RRE.
I just checked them out they are the same as the ones on SBR, same code#s for them. Ive read a few peoples testements about them and I think they are what Im going with.

Dustin
 
Part numbers may be the same, but I know RRE does custom spring rates and sets the suspension for each individual car, granted you pay a visit to California :D

As for being able to set up the suspension, that's a personal question you'll have to ask yourself. With that many variables it may be hard to set up the suspension to optimize a purchase of that magnitude.
 
I still dont understand the bind issues people have been talking about with the GC's. I have GC/ Koni setup on my 1g awd. I wrapped the shock body with duct tape until it was thick enough where the GC sleeve would just fit over it, fairly snuggly. Then put grease on the tape and slid the sleeve over it onto its perch. This way the sleeve cant move from side to side as the duct tape is keeping it even with the shock body. I have yet to hear any noise or notice any type of binding. If it is happeneing then I have no idea but hey, at least I know the sleeves are not moving.

I did not like that the rear sleeve insert was at the bottom of the sleeve sitting on the c-clip and nothing between it and the shock body. Also, the duct tape should help keep dirt and crap from fillin up the gap as well.
 
asian312 said:
Part numbers may be the same, but I know RRE does custom spring rates and sets the suspension for each individual car, granted you pay a visit to California :D

As for being able to set up the suspension, that's a personal question you'll have to ask yourself. With that many variables it may be hard to set up the suspension to optimize a purchase of that magnitude.
Yeah Ive always wanted to visit Cali.:cool: But I think Ill just call up RRE give them the info they need to get the best spring rates, and have a local DSM shop, or someone good with suspension tweak it. Im going to be getting the JICs from RRE.

Dustin
 
Maybe you can have somone machine you a sleeve?



Or the best thing would be, take that expoxy people are using to making there own DIY motor mounts. And fill the sleeve gap area with it, never have to worry about it again.........Does this make sense?
 
JOEY A said:
Or the best thing would be, take that expoxy people are using to making there own DIY motor mounts. And fill the sleeve gap area with it, never have to worry about it again.........Does this make sense?

Only problem would be when/if the shock blows you're going to have a hell of a time getting the collar off to replace or repair the shock. I used the supplied O-rings and never had a rattling problem.
 
Im putting some massive $$$ into this car, Im not cutting corners, on something as important as the suspension. Thanks for the suggestion though Joey, Ramen has the same thought that I do, if it can break it will on a DSM:p

Dustin
 
RamenPride said:
Only problem would be when/if the shock blows you're going to have a hell of a time getting the collar off to replace or repair the shock. I used the supplied O-rings and never had a rattling problem.


Thats true, but it would work well if you didnt care and bought the kit used.
 
Eagle 5 said:
I still dont understand the bind issues people have been talking about with the GC's. I have GC/ Koni setup on my 1g awd. I wrapped the shock body with duct tape until it was thick enough where the GC sleeve would just fit over it, fairly snuggly. Then put grease on the tape and slid the sleeve over it onto its perch. This way the sleeve cant move from side to side as the duct tape is keeping it even with the shock body. I have yet to hear any noise or notice any type of binding. If it is happeneing then I have no idea but hey, at least I know the sleeves are not moving.

I did not like that the rear sleeve insert was at the bottom of the sleeve sitting on the c-clip and nothing between it and the shock body. Also, the duct tape should help keep dirt and crap from fillin up the gap as well.

Well, I think I found what part of the bind issue was. I was talking to a friend from a suspension class, and he said I might have a failing, or soon to fail drivers side tie rod. Now I don't know alot about those, but he said that if the tie rod is going, that it tends to bind, and not move freely, until theres enough pressure on it that it 'pops' and the ensuing vibration moves up the strut into the only piece of metal that can really vibrate: the spring.

Now, granted, I'm not sure if he knows his stuff yet, but does that sound plausible?
 
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