2G Greddy bov issues

[Jordan97]

I had to replace my stock bov because there was a leak in it. So I put on a greddy type rs with the 2g flange on my stock ic piping. I was having troubles getting it in perfectly and my car felt like it had a loss a power.. One day I was messing with it and got it on pretty good, and my car ran a lot better.. But then I accidentally stripped the threads inside the bov, and the hard/soft setting thing is loose and I can't get it tight.. Will that cause it to feel like I have a loss of power? If so how can I fix it? Do I need a new bov?

 

[JusMX141]

Well you definitely have a boost/vacuum leak out the top of the valve if you can't tighten the screw.

If I were in your shoes I'd unload it and find a nice 1G BOV...and enjoy years of trouble-free operation with no need to adjust anything or replace any diaphragms.

 

[GymHobo]

its a boost leak, also be sure to tighten the internal spring enough to prevent fludder

 

[Jordan97]

So I need a new bov for sure?

 

[Jordan97]

Ill probably start off with buying a new bov, but what would be the best, cheap bov to get? Stock 1g? If so where can I find one?

 

[Type1DSMr]

Ill probably start off with buying a new bov, but what would be the best, cheap bov to get? Stock 1g? If so where can I find one?

Check classifieds for a cheap 1g, but remember to make sure your ucip is flange for 1g or have an adapter.

Ya

Why are you going into threads posting worthless one word unrelated info? You have done this several times so far today. Mods should put a stop to posters doing this.

 

[BoostedBeaver]

Why are you going into threads posting worthless one word unrelated info? You have done this several times so far today. Mods should put a stop to posters doing this.

Should you or any other member see someone breaking the site rules and policies, please bring it to the moderating teams attention by clicking the report icon at the bottom of the post.

 

[Pipnorcali]

A stock 1g or a ngr would be your best bet

 

[PlanZero]

In terms of direct swap, evo bovs are the best. Just make sure its the all aluminum version off 9 and Xs, not the earlier plastic version. Check classifieds, eBay or evo forums. I like mine so much more than the 1g, plus no adaptor needed. I was very annoyed by my 1g "squeak" which I discovered was a common problem after I got it. I also think they sound much better than the 1g. I lucked out and got mine for $45 shipped.
Also, are you sure you stripped the screw? Unless you tightened it down way too hard, which you should never do. They should usually remain on almost full soft for optimal performance. You do realize there's a lock nut on the adjustment screw right?

 

[Jordan97]

I stripped the threads inside, so the screw barely gets tight

 

[Mello]

I would just helicoil it and add an oring under the lock nut.

 

[PlanZero]

I can't imagine tightening my type s to the point that the threads stripped. That means you compressed the spring to the max, then continued to tighten with extreme predjudice. Obviously the spring was bad, and I'm sure the diaphragm was shot as well. No offense, but you really have to research before you go playing with important components willy nilly. When I got a used GReddy bov, I installed it and it whistled a bit. I researched the hell out of it, and realized it just needed to be adjusted slightly. EVERY post I read warned of the dangers of over tightening and the potential damage to your turbo. And if you can't figure out the proper tension, the rule of thumb is about 7-10 threads of the screw exposed above the locknut.

 

[Jordan97]

I bought myself a 1g bov. Fixed my problems