Got some suspension problems. Tires hitting in rear.

[Gamble97]

Ever since I lowered my car on d2 coilovers I have been hearing some clunk in the rear when going up the curb on my driveway. (and it's mostly a flat curb) I got new rims and took the old ones off, and to my suprise on the rear pass. side the outside had full thread and the inside of the tire had the belts showing. It looks as if the tire is hitting the spindle over these bumps. Now I can't be 100% sure, but it is hitting something.
These are my suspension mods:
Full poly bushings, front & rear
D2 suspension
Exel RH5 17x7 35mm offset
225/45/17 toyo tires.

At first I thought it was because of the 35mm offset so I got new wheels. They are Rota subzero with a +45mm offset and the camber in the rear still looks terrible. It looks as if I straighten the camber out, the tires will hit the fenders. I have not yet, done the homemade camber kit yet.
I'm really trying to avoid rolling the fenders.
I jacked up the rear of the car so that I have a 2 finger gap between the tire and the wheel well and it still seems to be rubbing over curbs.

What can I do?

 

[FORMONTOYA]

The rear tends to be more "bouncy" with coil-overs and will sometimes rub the fenders if the bump is big enough, especially if there's weight in the back.

The "clunk" is more than likely the spring coming off the top hat/washer now that the car is lowered (I'm reasonably sure you now have to hit driveways at an angle). When the shock is fully extended it allow this to happen and the suspension will "clunk" trying to center the hat/washer when it comes back down. The only way to solve this particular problem is by adding helper springs (similar to this): http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=1875

Get the camber kits on and get an alignment. The "toe" setting is probably out of whack and is just chewing the hell out of those tires.


edit: added in red

 

[Gamble97]

I forgot to add this, yes I do go up the curb at an angle and at a MAX of 4-5mph. So it's not like I go fast at all.
Where do helper springs go? Under the d2 spring?

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Well....the slower you go the worse it "clunks" as it has more time to come off the springs.

The helper spring usually goes between the spring and the top has with a "spacer in between both springs.

 

[Gamble97]

Anyway to fix this without helper springs?

 

[DSMSpyder99]

raise your car to a 3 finger gap

 

[Gamble97]

Are you serious? Who else is lowered kind of low on d2's and doesn't have this problem?
Pics?

 

[DSMSpyder99]

i have 17x8 35mm offset with 245/40/17 and i have a 3 finger gap in the back no rubbing at all with no rolling of the fenders.

 

[Gamble97]

There should be no need for a 3finger gap with a 17x7 rim.

 

[wret]

Ever since I lowered my car on d2 coilovers I have been hearing some clunk in the rear when going up the curb on my driveway. (and it's mostly a flat curb) I got new rims and took the old ones off, and to my suprise on the rear pass. side the outside had full thread and the inside of the tire had the belts showing. It looks as if the tire is hitting the spindle over these bumps. Now I can't be 100% sure, but it is hitting something.
These are my suspension mods:
Full poly bushings, front & rear
D2 suspension
Exel RH5 17x7 35mm offset
225/45/17 toyo tires.

At first I thought it was because of the 35mm offset so I got new wheels. They are Rota subzero with a +45mm offset and the camber in the rear still looks terrible. It looks as if I straighten the camber out, the tires will hit the fenders. I have not yet, done the homemade camber kit yet.
I'm really trying to avoid rolling the fenders.
I jacked up the rear of the car so that I have a 2 finger gap between the tire and the wheel well and it still seems to be rubbing over curbs.

What can I do?

Let me correct a few of your misconceptions.
1. There is no way your tires were rubbing the rear knuckles with 35mm offset and 225/45/17 tires.
2. Change to 45mm offset made your tires closer to the knuckle but still would not rub 225/45/17 tires.
3. The gap between the tire and knuckle does not really change with suspension movement. The only variation in the gap relates to bearing tolerance. In other words if you mount a tire and and it doesn't rub, it won't rub later unless your bearings are worn.
4. Your tire wear is likely due to toe as mentioned.
5. You should easily be able to tuck those wheels and tires under the fender without rubbing.

 

[Gamble97]

That's fine IF the toe is off, but what is the noise that I hear over curbs and bumps in the road?

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Not 100% sure..........but what does the outer block on the tires look like afterward? As stated, with a "2 finger" gap if there's any weight in the back or it's a fairly big bump, I've had the inner lip of the fender scratch/scar (I wouldn't even go near the word cut) the outer block of my Yokohama.

 

[Gamble97]

^^I had that happen on my last car so I have been looking and I see nothing.

 

[wret]

I would suspect a worn bushing. The most commonly failed bushing would be the upper knuckle.

 

[Gamble97]

I installed the engery suspension bushing kit.

 

[DSMSpyder99]

maybe 1 (or all 3) bolts are loose try tightening them

 

[Gamble97]

I will check, but I really doubt it, since I just put them on not too long ago and haven't driven much.

 

[Strm Trpr]

Man, you have a shit ton of money into that motor.
You state in your mod list that you have DSMLink twice, but yet you wish you had a tune...

Did you do the install of the ES bushings yourself?
I've done those, and let me tell you they suck ass compared to doing a prothane install.

I just did the prothane kit.
I learned how it all worked when doing the left rear.
Took me 2 nights 3 hours each night to have the left rear torqued back together.

Rear right took me 4 hours for a complete tear down with a shit ton of pictures and a complete bushing install on all of the components.
Took me less than an hour to bolt everything back up the next morning.

If you just did the ES install yourself, then inspecting your suspension should take you an hour tops.

I hate to say it, but take it apart and tell us what you find.
I wish I could physically be there to help you fix it.

Perhaps it's something simple like you forgot to retorque the toe control arm ball joint, or loose inner UCA...

 

[Gamble97]

Man, you have a shit ton of money into that motor.
You state in your mod list that you have DSMLink twice, but yet you wish you had a tune...

Did you do the install of the ES bushings yourself?
I've done those, and let me tell you they suck ass compared to doing a prothane install.

I just did the prothane kit.
I learned how it all worked when doing the left rear.
Took me 2 nights 3 hours each night to have the left rear torqued back together.

Rear right took me 4 hours for a complete tear down with a shit ton of pictures and a complete bushing install on all of the components.
Took me less than an hour to bolt everything back up the next morning.

If you just did the ES install yourself, then inspecting your suspension should take you an hour tops.

I hate to say it, but take it apart and tell us what you find.
I wish I could physically be there to help you fix it.

Perhaps it's something simple like you forgot to retorque the toe control arm ball joint, or loose inner UCA...

haha yeah, there is a TON of money into this car. Like $12k last I counted, maybe more. I don't like to count anymore.
I did do the install myself and it was a PITA. At least the rear was, I did the fronts in about 20 for the front knuckles and 10 minutes for the lower bushing on each side. So less than 1 hour total. This didn't include putting it back together, because I did it when the car was tore down for the motor build.
I really hope it's something stupid, I will take a look along with some pictures tomorrow morning. I will also take some pics and post them tomorrow.
Also, I did the bushing install with a bench vise. I broke the vise too,
edit: oh and my wish list is a tune, because I have to wait for her to break in.

 

[jtmcinder]

If the D2s don't have helpers, then it probably is the spring becoming loose and banging back down. If you refuse to add helpers (which actually don't help the noise and banging very much; they just keep things lined up when unloaded), then crank up the rebound damping. My rears bang around when the Konis are set to soft, but stop banging when the rebound is higher.

- Jtoby

 

[Gamble97]

Here is one pic. Just seeing if I will have to resize before I post more.

 

[Gamble97]

Here are some more pics. Sorry if they are not the greatest, they were taken with my phone.

 

[Gamble97]

More pics.....

 

[Gamble97]

Anyone? Are the pics still there? Or do I have to upload them again

 

[Gamble97]

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164676&page=2

Pics are here^^