Good reference for changing the timing belt on 4G63

[Robotech]

I have several 4G63 cars that I picked up recently and they all need timing belt changes. I've been very hesitant to do so because the timing belt procedure has some very critical torque setting to get the tension right. Anyways I was wondering if there were some good reference material out there like a step by step breakdown that someone did or even a video on it?
Also, my drag car is a 1999 GSX. I was wondering if there was any difference in the engine procedure for the 99 over the earlier versions?
Thanks in advance my friends
David

 

[Robotech]

as a side note i ordered up some OEM timing belts. Not going to screw around with aftermarkets.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

There are some differences between the six a seven bolt motors, but the basics are the same. You may as want to invest in the numerous timing specific tools such as the set pictured:

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You can get it from numerous vendors, but here is one link:

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=29690&cat=865&page=1

As far as resources:

• Ultimate resource= Factory service manual:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/download-a-2g-service-manual.324090/​

• VFAQ may be a good bookmark for you to check while researching:

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html​

• For visual learners (6-bolt, but still very helpful):

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You will want to use these resources in conjunction with one another.

 

[FlyinTalon]

I also have used this YouTube link and like it a lot.

 

[FlyinTalon]

I have also found factory service manuals that the dealer ship would use at Chrysler on eBay that you can pick up for cheap.

 

[Tanro]

As far as setting belt tension.

Draw a line through the middle of the balance shaft tension in 2 directions (up/down, and left/right) now make sure the tensioner is in the bottom right quadrant. Then compare belt deflection to the manual. Its hard to not do this one right. As long as your deflection is correct. You should only be able to turn the opposite side of the belt about a quarter turn.

Now the other tensioner is not to bad either. You should torque the belt using the special tool until you can freely slide the grenade pin in and out of the tensioner. Then torque down the tensioner pulley. Wait 15 minutes and ensure the pin still slides in and out freely. Rotate the engine 6 times, then repeat the test with the grenade pin.

 

[Robotech]

Thank you all for this information. The video and the PDFs were very useful to me. I already had purchased this set from Extremepsi but again, its the wisdom on how to do it right is what I was lacking, so I'll review this before I make an attempt at changing the timing belt.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

If you use all of the posted sources to complete the job and triple verify everything, you will have success. Additionally, if performing this job on used motors, consider replacing other components such as the water pump while there. Do as much, or little as you like, but keep in mind what a pain in the ass it is to replace something that requires timing belt removal to access while the engine is in the car. Feel free to post questions/concerns you have while doing the job after consulting the resources. I personally prefer to have a hard copy of the FSM to refer to for numerous reasons.

 

[Robotech]

If you use all of the posted sources to complete the job and triple verify everything, you will have success. Additionally, if performing this job on used motors, consider replacing other components such as the water pump while there. Do as much, or little as you like, but keep in mind what a pain in the ass it is to replace something that requires timing belt removal to access while the engine is in the car. Feel free to post questions/concerns you have while doing the job after consulting the resources. I personally prefer to have a hard copy of the FSM to refer to for numerous reasons.

Is there somewhere I can get a 97-99 FSM without printing it myself? I saw the PDFs. I recently bought a 1996 eclipse FSM set off of ebay for 100 bucks, which is great, except that I learned yesterday that the 97-99 are different, and saw this for myself when I was comparing some of the electrical system diagrams. So I have my ebay browser window open and every day hit refresh to see if a 97-99 FSM shows up. There used to be a place online where I could buy the service manuals already printed and bought one for my mustang, but I have since lost any information on where to get it.

Thank you for your help
David

 

[GSLENK]

I recently did this job for the first time. And setting tension was a major voodoo magic PITA. After about 30+ attempts, I was finally happy. Most of those attempts failed the gap spec immediately, or before the 6 rotations was over. A few made it after the 6 rotations, but not after 15 minutes. The last one made it after 6 rotations, 15 minutes, MANY more rotations and about a full day as I prepped other stuff to reinstall the engine. Then I was happy. I used drill bits to check the gap.

From my experience, it was not enough to set tension so that the pin moves freely. It never settled afterward to anywhere near the correct gap/tension for me. YMMV

I used this method to obtain success, when the official method's prospects were looking dim:

• Here is how I set the tension whether I am using a new tensioner or not:
  • I do not use an Allen wrench on the tensioner as noted previously, I just let the tensioner expand all the way
    
    • Once the belt is installed, I place a .150" drillbit (or the nearest larger size I have) on the top of the tensioner body, and screw in the tensioner tool until it captures the drillbit between the tensioner body and tensioner pulley bracket. When the bracket is close to the drillbit, I start spinning the drillbit, and stop screwing in the tool as soon as the bracket stops it from spinning. In other words, I stop when the pulley bracket is just snug against the bit.
    • I place a flatblade screwdriver between the engine and tensioner pulley, and lightly pry up on the pulley
    • I torque the pulley down
    • I back off the tensioner tool several turns, and immediately check the tensioner gap - if it has gotten too small or too large right away, I redo the steps above, changing the pressure used on the screwdriver. If the gap looks OK, I spin the engine 6 turns and wait 15 minutes and check the gap again.
    • There are other ways to do this, but this works best for me
  
  Source:

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

If you are wanting a 2gb manual, they are actually broken down by each model year:

• http://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-Mitsub...ash=item5b27ee57fc:g:OrwAAOSwj2dXj5yL&vxp=mtr

• https://books4cars.com/listings.php...40&totalRows_rsModels=740&findmake=Mitsubishi

There may be some small changes between 97-99 such as emissions diagrams and some minor wiring changes. The one you have should be fine for the timing belt along with the vast majority of the mechanical stuff.