Rock2610d
Proven Member
- 255
- 4
- Jan 22, 2013
-
Cheyenne,
Wyoming
Here are my issues:
1) Car starts and idles like a dream(cold or hot)....as good as the day is rolled off the factory floor.
2) Until I rev it above 3500 or so RPM...then it feels like its missing and has no power. I can keep it running by playing with the air pedal(gas pedal).
3) After about 1 or 2 minutes it settles down again and idles perfectly.
4) during the 1 or 2 minutes its running bad the evac sensor will click loud
5) during the 1 or 2 minutes it will not rev up very good at all....maybe 3000 rpm
6) after the 1 or 2 minutes the clicking stops and idle is perfect again, I will be able to rev to 5000 rpm easy but with in a couple seconds it will start to miss and try to die again.
7) if you have ever pulled the MAF plug and started the car....that is what it feels like after it hits 3500 rpm and for a couple minutes afterwards...then the idle is great. Kinda like someone pulls the MAF plug at 3500 rpm and after a couple minutes plugs it back in.
Any thoughts?
Please note:
ECU checked by DSM Link, everything good
Freshly rebuild engine...9:1 compression due to my elevation
New clutch and pressure plate
new sensors OEM
New timing belt and system OEM
Freshly cleaned injectors
New Spark plug wires and plugs
Fresh stock T-25 turbo
****After thinking about it I think its a boost leak.********
When I first started it everything was fine. When I first drove it I could hear the turbocharge whistle. I got on it and heard the turbo and at about 4K rpm the car stumbled and i did not hear the turbo anymore. I think I might have a pretty good boost leak that may be pulling in air at high rpms...
Are the above symptoms of a boost leak?
*********no boost leaks*************
I have a live data recorder on my OBD Scan tool.
When I hit 3500 rpm my:
Spark Advance goes to 2.5 (3500 rpm) degrees from 33.5 degrees
LTFT (Long Term Fuel Trim) goes to -1.7 from 2.3, seems to like -1.5
Rpm goes from 3500 to 532 as i let off pedal and it tries to die
Calc Load % goes from 38% to 14.9%
ECT is 210 both at 4500 rpm and 532 rpm
STFT S1 Short term fuel trim varies between -1.5 and -6.2 until I hit 3500 rpm and then it goes to 0 for exactly 67 seconds while vehicle is running kinda bad. After that vehicle comes out of it and STFT B1 is at -8.5
STFT S2 Mirrors STFT S1 but numbers are a tad different....still goes to 0 for over a minute while engine runs rough.
IAT (intake air temp) is a steady 68 degrees
MAF (lb/min) is between .3 and 2.1, just before i rev it to 3500 MAF is 1.9, while reving it drops to .5, and is at .3 just after reving to 3500 it stays at .5 for about 50 seconds and spikes to 10.6 than back down to .3
TPS% is at 2.3 prior to reving, 39.6 while reving, and 2.7 after reving. I am trying to keep it running at his point.
O2S s1 Varies between .3 and .92 during issues.
O2S S2 Varies between .119 and .94 during issues.
Any help would be grateful.
*************UPDATE************
Well I have been fiddling and I put the throttle cable hold down in the exact spot as removed and idle was way high....2000 rpm. So I adjusted the pulley part of the cable. The one on the firewall next to the cruse control cable. I adjusted to 780 RPM at idle.
All symptoms seemed to have disappeared???? At least when the car is warmed up it idles right around 780 or so. It will be around 850 or so after a moderate drive down the road....then eventually go back to 780 or so.
I can rev to 4500 or more and no issues.
Can a maladjusted cable cause the previous issues?
1) Car starts and idles like a dream(cold or hot)....as good as the day is rolled off the factory floor.
2) Until I rev it above 3500 or so RPM...then it feels like its missing and has no power. I can keep it running by playing with the air pedal(gas pedal).
3) After about 1 or 2 minutes it settles down again and idles perfectly.
4) during the 1 or 2 minutes its running bad the evac sensor will click loud
5) during the 1 or 2 minutes it will not rev up very good at all....maybe 3000 rpm
6) after the 1 or 2 minutes the clicking stops and idle is perfect again, I will be able to rev to 5000 rpm easy but with in a couple seconds it will start to miss and try to die again.
7) if you have ever pulled the MAF plug and started the car....that is what it feels like after it hits 3500 rpm and for a couple minutes afterwards...then the idle is great. Kinda like someone pulls the MAF plug at 3500 rpm and after a couple minutes plugs it back in.
Any thoughts?
Please note:
ECU checked by DSM Link, everything good
Freshly rebuild engine...9:1 compression due to my elevation
New clutch and pressure plate
new sensors OEM
New timing belt and system OEM
Freshly cleaned injectors
New Spark plug wires and plugs
Fresh stock T-25 turbo
****After thinking about it I think its a boost leak.********
When I first started it everything was fine. When I first drove it I could hear the turbocharge whistle. I got on it and heard the turbo and at about 4K rpm the car stumbled and i did not hear the turbo anymore. I think I might have a pretty good boost leak that may be pulling in air at high rpms...
Are the above symptoms of a boost leak?
*********no boost leaks*************
I have a live data recorder on my OBD Scan tool.
When I hit 3500 rpm my:
Spark Advance goes to 2.5 (3500 rpm) degrees from 33.5 degrees
LTFT (Long Term Fuel Trim) goes to -1.7 from 2.3, seems to like -1.5
Rpm goes from 3500 to 532 as i let off pedal and it tries to die
Calc Load % goes from 38% to 14.9%
ECT is 210 both at 4500 rpm and 532 rpm
STFT S1 Short term fuel trim varies between -1.5 and -6.2 until I hit 3500 rpm and then it goes to 0 for exactly 67 seconds while vehicle is running kinda bad. After that vehicle comes out of it and STFT B1 is at -8.5
STFT S2 Mirrors STFT S1 but numbers are a tad different....still goes to 0 for over a minute while engine runs rough.
IAT (intake air temp) is a steady 68 degrees
MAF (lb/min) is between .3 and 2.1, just before i rev it to 3500 MAF is 1.9, while reving it drops to .5, and is at .3 just after reving to 3500 it stays at .5 for about 50 seconds and spikes to 10.6 than back down to .3
TPS% is at 2.3 prior to reving, 39.6 while reving, and 2.7 after reving. I am trying to keep it running at his point.
O2S s1 Varies between .3 and .92 during issues.
O2S S2 Varies between .119 and .94 during issues.
Any help would be grateful.
*************UPDATE************
Well I have been fiddling and I put the throttle cable hold down in the exact spot as removed and idle was way high....2000 rpm. So I adjusted the pulley part of the cable. The one on the firewall next to the cruse control cable. I adjusted to 780 RPM at idle.
All symptoms seemed to have disappeared???? At least when the car is warmed up it idles right around 780 or so. It will be around 850 or so after a moderate drive down the road....then eventually go back to 780 or so.
I can rev to 4500 or more and no issues.
Can a maladjusted cable cause the previous issues?